2008 Comte de Vogue Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

(93-94 Points) Scents and flavors of grenadine, blueberry syrup, distilled herbal concentrates, as well as rose and peony floral notes surprisingly akin to those found in its siblings from Musigny mark the de Vogue 2008 Bonnes Mares. Saline, savory meat stock elements – which Millet considers “not really a true minerality like that of the Amoureuses†– suffuse a palate of impressive density yet textural caress, sweetness of fruit yet also sheer refreshment. Hints of resin and pepper add to the complexity of the finish. Rather than the transparency or interactive vibrancy of the Amoureuses and Musigny, we have here a more enveloping and serenely sustained personality.

Francois Millet – always keen to pinpoint the expression of fruit he finds in each vintage – characterizes that of 2008 as “syrup-like,†and of 2007 as “candied.†I am skeptical that these metaphors can be generalized, but under no circumstances should “syrup-like†be taken as an attempt to deny the brightness or transparency displayed by so many of the best 2008s, including these. “To have been picked late†– in this instance, starting September 27 – “to have been picked cold, and to have fermented very slowly to created the largest amount of glycerol to combine with the freshness of the vintage,†opines Millet, constitutes a significant part of the 2008s’ secret, seduction, even mystery. “Late malo†– here completed in August – he adds, “was also good, so that the vintage could have a true childhood, and slowly, surely build itself. If we had had a southern wind when the weather changed, maybe we would have lost that identity of 2008. But by there being a northern wind, the evolution was continued†i.e. in a constant, cool trajectory. Not to short-change it, the 2007 vintage collection here is one of those few capable of standing direct comparison to its immediate successor – or indeed to nearly any other vintage from this address. Wine Advocate # 189, Jun 2010