2004 Kistler Pinot Noir Cuvee Elizabeth Bodegas Highlands Vineyard (stained label)

(96-98 Points) Bordering on perfection, the 2004 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands (from Kistler’s new vineyard planted on the Sonoma Coast) offers up sweet plum, forest floor, and violet scents along with a La Tache-like, ethereal, floral, and black raspberry-like character. This prodigious, deep ruby/purple-colored Pinot possesses fabulous concentration as well as a layered, multidimensional palate, wonderful fruit, sweet tannin, and good acidity. It should age beautifully for 10-12 years. Interestingly, Steve Kistler planted this vineyard with the old Calera clone, which is rumored to be a suitcase clone pulled out of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti grand cru vineyards.

For Steve Kistler and his longtime assistant, Mark Bixler, 2004 was a very small crop, even smaller than the modest production of 2003. This is a reference point winery for New World Chardonnay, although their viticultural and winemaking techniques are decidedly Burgundian. Interestingly, during the last year I have had an opportunity to taste some ten year old Kistler Chardonnays, and they have aged well in the bottle. While a decade is not long when compared with some long-lived white Burgundies, by the standards of most California Chardonnays, which are generally best consumed during their first 1-3 years of life, the Kistler techniques of whole cluster pressing, slow malolactic fermentation, aging on their lees in high quality French oak, and bottling without fining or filtration appear to be producing longer lived Chardonnays. Kistler has enjoyed a run of terrific vintages in the new century. Moreover, they seem to be ratcheting up their performance in terms of the quality and complexity of their Pinot Noirs. Wine Advocate # 162, Dec 2005