2005 Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra Magnum

(96 Points) The 2005 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra emerges from the glass with endless layers of sweet spices, menthol, violets and dark fruit on a powerful, authoritative frame. This is a beautifully defined, sculpted wine of the very highest level. Tar, smoke and licorice linger on the finish. The tannins are massive at this stage, and the wine needs time, but the 2005 is undoubtedly one of the stars of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.

Domenico Clerico’s 2005 Barolos are among the handful of wines in this vintage that reveal the three-dimensional qualities that make Barolo such a seductive wine. Unfortunately there is no Percristina, as the vintage that would have been released is the 2002, in which Clerico did not produce his single-vineyard Barolos. In August 2008 I spent a morning driving around Clerico’s vineyards in the Ginestra zone of Monforte, which is the source of his Pajana and Ciabot Mentin Ginestra Barolos. It is impossible to fully appreciate the backbreaking effort that is required to manually work these steep vineyards without setting foot in the vines themselves. The site of green-harvested fruit strewn across the ground was a testament to Clerico’s dedication to low yields. In recent years Clerico has gradually lengthened maceration times and lowered the use of new oak, both of which are allowing for the purity of that fruit to come through with extraordinary detail. Wine Advocate # 182, Apr 2009