2004 Georges Laval Brut Nature Champagne Magnums

(92 Points) The 2004 Brut Nature Millesime Premier Cru Les Hautes Chevres is an intense, powerful wine laced with perfumed, mineral-driven fruit. This focused, energetic Champagne reveals lovely palate presence and exceptional balance. Though bottled with no dosage, the Les Hautes Chevres nevertheless possesses gorgeous richness for a wine made in this style. Simply put, everything is in the right place. Les Hautes Chevres is a single-vineyard Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier blend. Disgorged: May 6, 2009 (not indicated on the bottle). Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014.

These are the first wines I have tasted from Georges Laval, a small grower based in Cumieres. Laval farms his vineyards according to bio-dynamic principles. The wines are aged in oak and are bottled with no dosage. Based on what I tasted thus far, these Champagnes appear to be works in progress. The single vineyard 2004 Les Chenes (a single-vineyard Blanc de Blancs) in particular, was marred by excessive volatile acidity. Still, when Laval gets it right, the results can be exhilarating. Wine Advocate #186
Dec 2009