2007 Domaine Ostertag Fronholz Pinot Gris Alsace

(91 Points) Effusively musky, carnal, decadently floral (narcissus and faded lily) as well as peachy scents in the Ostertag 2007 Pinot Gris Fronholz are followed by a palate of subtle oiliness, imposing richness, and ripe peach succulence, supported by the subtle sweetening effect of high glycerin (in a wine of already well over 14% alcohol) and 12 grams of residual sugar that are utterly discreet. Yet, in the manner of the best Pinot Gris of its vintage, this retains lovely freshness, vivacity, and primary juiciness. Nut paste; spiced pear and peach; and musky liquid floral perfume linger on the palate as well as in the empty glass. This should remain a treat for at least 6-8 years, though one should monitor it thereafter for signs of alcoholic heat. Ostertag uses mostly older barrels for Fronholz as he thinks it’s cool, sometimes “ as in 2007 “ Riesling-like personality is temperamentally opposed to flavors of oak.

Andre Ostertag was like most of his region’s best growers very selective about what he chose to bottle in 2006. He is especially enthusiastic about his uncompromisingly intense 2007s and the sense in which the Rieslings resemble a throwback to the moderate must weights and refreshing acidity that was common in Alsace before the string of warm vintages that has been nearly uninterrupted since 1988. I was surprised to find myself as impresses as I was with the 2007 Pinot Gris bottlings here, but Ostertag says it was simply unfair until very recently to compare his results with that grape to those with Riesling, because the vines of the former were too young. They’ve passed 20 years of age now, and that, he opines, is why they can start to show their real potential (and, I would add, stand up to Ostertag’s use of barriques). While I hate to take up space with this matter, readers should be aware that wines from this estate that formerly bore the village name Epfig will now merely be coded with the capital letter because of certain limitations that the authorities have now imposed on the use of village designates and the definition of village level names. (Frankly, I wouldn’t even want to understand the regulation if I thought it would prove intelligible!) eRobertParker.com # 188 Apr 2010