What I Drank Yesterday - Madeira Tasting at Wine Watch Review 1795 WAS KILLER!!
“Like the best wine . . . that goeth down sweetly, causing the lips of those that are asleep to speak.”
The Song of Solomon, 7:9
This is one of those tastings that I look forward to every year as Madeira is one of the most magical of all the elixirs made from grapes. These very old wines are not as ancient as some, for instance they have been making wines in Burgundy for over 1000 years and in Italy, Greece and the Middle East for several thousand years. Madeira just got started in the 1400's.
Madeira is an Island off the coast of Morocco North Africa and when Charles II decided that all goods coming from continental Europe shipped to the new world would be taxed, the colonists soon discovered this fortified wine called Madeira. Their thirst for this beverage was seemingly endless as many of our forefathers like George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Betsy Ross and of course Benjamin Franklin drank and collected the wines of Madeira.
A few centuries before that even the wines from this island were written about by the famous 15th century poet William Shakespeare. In Shakespeare's "Henry IV" Poins accuses the Prince of Wales to have sold his soul for a glass of Malmsey and a chicken leg. One of John Falstaff's drinking friends is named after his Malmsey-reddened nose but the wines of Madera were not fortified at this time but they were probably slightly sweet as most wines of this time were.
The wines like the one on the table this evening are some of the rarest on the planet today. The concept of keeping wine in casks for over 100 years does not exist today and almost all of the Madeira today is bottled in its first 25 years of life. The power of money is so great today that it does not make economic sense to hold on to their stashes of wines any longer.
All I can say is thank god these economic geniuses did not exist a few hundred years ago as this has become one of my favorite wines and I realize every year when we open these dinosaurs that it could be the last time we see any of these particular wines.
These wines are thought of as a dessert wine but the truth is that the dryer style of these wines only contains around 1.5 grahams of residual sugar which is equal to that of what is found in Brut Champagne. These dryer styles make great wines to start dinner and are excellent with food because of their pronounced acidity.
Toni's meal went perfectly with the wines the tuna with lightly spiced curry and date chutney with toasted cashew nuts. I love the nutty accompaniment with each of the dishes and the sweet and tangy nature of the curry it played very nicely with the Sercial and the Verdelho. The all-spice scented carrots with honey and orange zest also added to the experience.
1860 Cossart Gordon Sercial Solera
The Sercial and the Verdelho grapes are both white and grow at a higher elevation on the island. The solera indicated that this is a blend with the oldest wines being from around 1860 but could be even older. The youngest wines in this solera are most likely from 1910 or 1920 and this was probably bottled in the 1940' or 1950's. An incredible bouquet of fresh ground coffee on the nose with notes of dark fudge, fig and date cake along with all-spice and toffee, wonderful complexity on the nose. A bit tart on the palate where the fruit is concerned but still has good freshness on the finish a little hot at first but mellows nicely after it is opened for several hours, I opened the 1860 and the 1795 earlier the day of the event and by the time of our event these were both singing. Some lemon zest starting to show and still wonderfully fresh for such an old dog. Finish 45+ Most Excellent
1926 Barbeito Verdelho Madeira
A host of brown spices on the nose cinnamon and clove with notes of orange peel, a slight musky note a grapefruit like citrus nuance. Sweet and tangy on the tongue with wonderful freshness with a nutty finish with a little less bit than the Sercial. Finish 45+ Excellent +
1927 Leacock's Bastardo Vintage Madeira
Bastardo is one of the few black grapes found on the island and is very rare. An intoxicating nose of brown spices, dried tobacco and brown fudge, cashew nuts, an anticeptic floral nuance. Sweet and very tangy on the tongue with hints of dark fudge and brown spices also has a slight briny note to the finish. Finish 50+ Most Excellent
1795 Barbeito Vintage Tarrantez
Tarrantez is a very rare varietal and produces one of the most profound of all the wines that I have tasted from Madeira. It is not quite as sweet as the Bual or Malmsey but would be considered one of the sweeter styles. Volatile aromas of toffee, all-spice, dates and sundried raisins on the nose incredible amount of fruit remaining on the nose, exotic spices. Wow still incredibly fresh on the palate, this wine is the smoothest on the palate and has an impression of silk with sweet dates and fig with fudge like notes and some fresh ground coffee very exotic and again wonderful freshness, a lemon zest like quality on the finish. Finish 50+ KILLER!! George Washington was president of the U.S. when this wine was born!
Both the Terrantez and the Bastardo were excellent with the all-spice marinated Pork belly with maple Korean BBQ natural sauce and dill scented green beans. The combination of sweet and tangy along with the richness of the pork belly worked brilliantly with the toasted peanut garnish.
1914 Ruterhford and Miles Vintage Bual
A very spicy and exotic bouquet with hints of curry apple chutney, lemon zest and white fudge, a lot of VA on the nose. Wow- a bit overbearing on the first sip tangy with brown spice and a citrusy quality also taking on some of that dried meat jerky character after a few days open in the glass. This wine is still quite youthful and after opening up for a few days really showed nicely, I can’t wait to try this wine at our second vintage event in March. All of these wines will be on the table for a 2nd time and usually they show better a few months after they are opened! Finish 50+ Most Excellent
1916 Barbeito Vintage Malmesy
A bit of bottle stink but very seductive bouquet of fudge walnuts dates and brown spices, tobacco. Wow thick and chewy on the tongue with layers of brown spice fudge and a tar like quality to the finish, dates and mandarin orange . This wine really stands out on the nose after two day with aromas of beef jerky and smoked meats now coming out again I can’t wait to try this again in March. Finish 50+ Most Excellent +
All I can say for the food and wine pairings with these last two wines is- Chocolate covered bacon! Genius honey! Outstanding job with the food Toni!
If you would like to begin your experience with this magical elixir here is a list of what we have available in the store.
Madeira Available:
NV Blandys Madeira Rainwater
Price: $17.00
Quantity in Stock: 10
A light aroma nuts hazelnut walnuts and dried dates and figs with a touch of fudge. A nice amount of fig and date fruit on the tongue again very light and pleasant with a short but pleasant finish. Finish 30+ Good
Blandy's Madeira Verdelho 5 Year
Price: $27.00 Sale $23.76
Quantity in Stock: 11
"Gorgeous full-bodied mouth feel on the palate with slightly smoked rich creamy flavours and tones of honey, introduced by luxurious warm full orangey aromas. Simply delightful." International Wine Challenge
Blandy's Madeira Alvada 5 Year
Price: $19.50 Sale $17.16
Quantity in Stock: 2
Blandy's Alvada is the only blended Madeira available and is a 50-50 blend of the Bual and Malmsey grapes. It combines the lush, nutty tropical flavors of Bual with the rich, molasses-like flavors of Malmsey. Alvada has a long, lingering and bright finish.
Blandy's Madeira Bual 5 Year
Price: $27.00 Sale $23.76
Quantity in Stock: 11
“The Madeira Wine Company's bid for post- modern Madeira works surprisingly well in its flashy shocking pink-labeled 50cl bottle. They deliberately use shaved oak casks to increase the oaky component. Quite light but very vibrant and edgy and very, very definitely Madeira. Sappy, bright, you could drink this with some foods too”. Jancis Robinson
Rare Wine Company Madeira Charleston Sercial
Price: $50.75 Sale $44.66
Quantity in Stock: 12
93 points Wine Enthusiast: "The Historic Series are simply great Madeiras at reasonable prices. The Charleston Sercial is the driest of the collection, offering nutty aromas tinged with honey, caramel and maple syrup. Dried figs, honey and candied citrus flavors mark the palate, which is wonderfully smooth. The long finish features racy yet balanced acidity. Editors' Choice."
The Rare Wine Company Maderia Savannah Verdelho
Price: $50.75 Sale $44.66
Quantity in Stock: 10
The RWC historic Series Madeiras are a collaboration between The Rare Wine Company and Vinhos Barbeito. The goal here is to produce wines that evoke the mature vintage Madeiras of days long past. The various wines in the series are made up of a blend of younger varietal wines and older stocks. The Savannah Verdelho is the newest wine in the series. Produced from a blend of 10 year old Verdelho mixed with small quantities of 40-60 year old Tinta Negra Mole by Ricardo Freitas, grandson of the founder Mario Barbeito, this amber gold colored wine is barely sweet with rich walnut/almond aroma and flavor. Toasted barrel character on the finish adds to the complexity of this Madeira.
NV New York Maderia Malmsey
Price: $54.00 Sale $47.52
Quantity in Stock: 9
This Malmsey has the deep color and classic toffee and caramel notes that make Malmsey such a favorite among Madeira lovers. It’s a perfect wine with which to finish a meal, and is fabulous with rich desserts, including chocolate. Production: 500 cases/yr.
NV The Rare Wine Company Madeira Boston Bual
Price: $50.75 Sale $44.66
Quantity in Stock: 11
This elegant Bual shows the classic notes of citrus peel and cinnamon. Its moderate sweetness, combined with good acidity, makes it not only a wonderful after-dinner wine, but versatile for dessert pairing. Production: 400 cases/yr.
The Old Dogs:
These are the wines that are disappearing quickly and going up in price dramatically as they are the only bottles of wine that are not only drinkable but they are drinking at their peak right now! Try to drink a bottle of 1800 Lafite Rothschild- you will be lucky if there is a hint of fruit to this wine and it will probably fade within 10 minutes. The 1837 Terrentez is a “once in a lifetime” drinking experience- these old Madeiras are other worldly, out of this worldly, you should not leave this earth without experiencingly good!! Sorry, I know that is not a word but I got a little overly excited because of how KILLER the 1795 was last night. By the way that 1800 Lafite would run you around $100,000/btl.
1837 Barbieto Madeira Terrantez
Price $1750 Sale $1487
1 Available
Terrantez is considered to be the rarest of all the Madera. This grape had been thought to be extinct for many years and is only now beginning to make a comeback. Serious Madeira collectors consider old Tarrantez to be the ultimate prize in collecting and drinking Madeira.
1880 Barbieto Madeira Terrantez
Price $1550 Sale $1320
1 Available
This white, medium dry, sometimes rather sweet variety is hardly grown anymore. You can sometimes still find it in old vintages or soleras. Unfortunately the total harvest of Terrantez does not even fill a complete cask of wine, usually containing a little above 500 liters
1910 Barbieto Madeira Sercial
List $450 Sale $350.00
7 Available
The high level of acidity makes Sercial almost undrinkable in its youth. In the 16th century, this wine was called "Esgana Cão" - dog-strangler. To obtain a maximum aroma as a counterpart, Sercial is harvested as the last of the grapes, often as late as the beginning of October. Sercial has to mature for a long time, before it is drinkable. The minimum of twenty years in cask for vintages will just be enough to soften the piercing acidity. Once this wine has found its balance, it makes a perfect aperitif but it can also hold its own very well. On the island, Sercial is often served with soup, nuts, crackers or other snacks. The cocktail "Madeira on the Rocks" is made of 2/3 dry Madeira of a lesser quality and 1/3 Campari. Sercial also goes well after Champagne.
1914 Barbeito Bual Madeira
Price: $350.00 Sale $308
Quantity in Stock: 1
Bual is sweeter still at 3.5 percent residual sugar, however it is balanced by sharp, tangy acidity.
1922 D'Oliveira Bual Madeira
Price: $531.00 Sale $467.28
Quantity in Stock: 1
The company of Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. was founded in 1850 by Joao Pereira d’Oliveira. He started as a partidista who produced wines to later sell them to other shippers. For example part of the famous 1908 Bual was sold to the MWC and so today this wine is offered under the Cossart Gordon label as well. Since 1974 Pereira D'Oliveira have started to market their wines themselves. Associated are Joao Joaquim Camacho and Augusto Cunha; from both companies very few bottles made it into the 21st century.
Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. today is a small size family company that is still run by the descendents of the founders family. The current annual production of wine is 1.500 hectolitres; the winemaking is done in Sao Martinho. The company owns some vineyards but most of the grapes are bought from selected farmers. Part of the ageing wine is also stored in the Rua dos Ferreiros where the company has its lodge with sales room and office. Madeira Wine Guide
1944 Barbieto Madeira Malvasia
List $575 Sale $460.00
3 Available
Malmsey is the most famous Madeira wine for sure. The English name Malmsey is used for the white Malvasia grape which has its roots in the Greek islands. Malvasia, or more precise, Malvasia Candida spread throughout Europe during the Middle Ages and went down in numbers in the Baroque period. However, around the world sweet and fortified wines are still made from all sorts of different members of the Malvasia family, like the white Malvasia Bianchi di Chianti, Malvasia Toscana, Malvasia Istriana, Malvasia delle Lipari, Malvasia Sarda, Malvasia di Schierano, Malvasia Candida, Malvasia Rei, Malvasia Bianca and the greek Malvazia as well as from the red Malvasia Nera and Malvasia di Carsorzo.
1948 Barbieto Madeira Malvasia
List $325 Sale $250.00
3 Available
An old Malmsey vintage will just be a little lighter in color than Bual. The nose is all toffee, vanilla and sometimes even beef bouillon. The palate has toffee and vanilla as well, added by marmalade sweetness and -some say- a distinctive taste of cough syrup.
1950 Barbeito Bual Reserva Velha Madeira
Price: $320.00 Sale $281.60
Quantity in Stock: 1
Bual is a good start for those having their first experience with Madeira wine. It is medium sweet but not to sticky, very aromatic with some acidity balancing the sweetness. Do not let yourself be fooled by the color which tends to be the darkest of all Madeira wines. The nose has richness and aromas of barley sugar and the palate often has some additional caramel and coffee aromas as well as dried fruits like orange peel or apricot.
1954 Barbeito Malvesia Madeira
Price: $292.00 Sale $257
Quantity in Stock: 5
(93 Points) Though not forthcoming in aroma, displaying butterscotch and hints of herbs, this has a seamless integration of components on the palate, balanced and harmonious, with vibrant acidity weaving throughout. Long finish, adding just a hint of dryness at the end. Gentle, with inner strength. Drink now. –BS Wine Spectator Issue: Apr 30, 1999
1968 D' Oliveira Bual Madeira
Price: $192.00 Sale $169
Quantity in Stock: 2
Bual is the English name for the Portuguese Boal. Bual is a white variety producing a medium sweet wine. The name was used for a whole group of grapes but today is usually connected with the Bual de Madeira also known as Boal Cachudo. Grown on the north side around São Vicente and on the south side at Campanário and Câmara de Lobos, it took over for Malmsey in many vineyards.
