Domaine Janasse CDR Terre D'argile & Clos St Jean CDP Vielle Vignes 2009 On Sale!! Hartford Wine dinner at Bistro 17 review
“Like a bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape, I'm fine like wine when I start to rap.”
Beastie Boys
Two GREAT Southern Rhones from the OUTSTANDING 2009 vintage.
These wines are both more of a modern style of Southern Rhone with a serious display of ripe delicious fruit- and what is wrong with that?? Don't hate me because I am beautiful and don't hate these two for their gorgeous forward fruit because as big and succulently delicious as they are they still have wonderful balance. Although they have lots of tannins, they are very ripe so you don't notice them till the effect of the 15% alcohol kicks in.
This first wine is a single vineyard Cotes du Rhone that lies just outside the appellation of the Chateauneuf du Pape boundaries and is always one of the best wines from this region and is equal in quality to many Chateauneuf Du Pape at a fraction of the cost.
2009 Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone Villages Terre d'Argile
Price: $27.75 Sale $21.25 Case $237
A blend of 70% Grenache and the rest mostly Mourvedre with a touch of Carignan. Aged completely in foudres and older small barrels. Lots of sweet ripe black cherry and black raspberry coulis like fruit on the nose with and array of fresh flowers and an array of soy and brown spices on the nose. Juicy fruit on the tongue with ripe round tannins and good freshness through the finish along with that perfumed floral nuance and a fresh floral garrigue character, sweet herbs and a tangy finish, big but still quite fresh. Finish 40+ Excellent +
(91 Points) The 2009 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Terre d’Argile is sensational. Notes of black currants and cherries as well as hints of charcoal, truffle, new saddle leather and earth all jump from the glass of this blend of 70% Grenache and the rest mostly Mourvedre with a touch of Carignan. Aged completely in foudres and older small barrels, it is dense ruby/purple, full-bodied, opulent, and ideal for drinking over the next 5-6 years. This impeccably run estate, in the capable hands of Christophe Sabon, his sister Isabelle, and their father, is one of the superstars of the southern Rhone Valley. Over the last 12-15 years, the quality of the wines has gone from strength to strength, with brilliant wines being produced in all price categories. They make sumptuous, complex, world-class red, white and rose Cotes du Rhones, and year-in and year-out, their Chateauneuf du Papes are among the top three or four wines of the vintage. Tasting two great vintages (2009 and 2010) from the Sabons was one of the most thrilling tastings I have had this year. My tasting began with some unbelievable Cotes du Rhones. Wine Advocate #197, Oct 2011
And then there is the 2009 old vines from Clos Saint-Jean, this wine is a little stunner with an array of spices and a concentration of fruit that is only equaled by its fresh acidity making this little blockbuster very balanced and giving it a decade or more of cellaring potential.
2009 Clos Saint-Jean Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes
Price: $49 Sale $42.24 Case $468
A blend of 75% old vine Grenache, 15% Syrah, and the balance a mix of Cinsault, Mourvèdre. Spiced black kirsch fruit on the nose with hints of espresso, licorice spice, animal, sweet herbs and bright floral nuance to the bouquet very complex. Thick and viscous on the tongue with ripe tannins and lots of spice to sweet herb and floral nuance on the finish, big but still has nice freshness and a long finish. Finish 50+ Most Excellent
(94 Points) The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes reveals supple tannins, a velvety texture, good opulence and low acidity. The wine is full-bodied, less intense in the mid-palate than the 2010, and already complex and evolved. It can be drunk now or cellared for 12-15+ years. If a prize were given to the Rhone Valley estate that had improved the most in the shortest period of time, it would undoubtedly go to that of Pascal and Vincent Maurel, who took over Clos Saint-Jean after their father passed away in 2002. Since then, they have made a succession of world-class wines that are out of this world. One of the largest estates in Chateauneuf du Pape, Clos Saint-Jean has an amazing number of old vine parcels in its 112+ acres (significant holdings in La Crau, in the eastern part of the appellation). No doubt the hiring of renowned oenologist Philippe Cambie has also increased the quality of these offerings. The 2010 Clos Saint-Jean Chateauneuf du Papes are phenomenal wines. The Maurel brothers believe they are as profound as the 2007s, and it is hard to disagree. Production is down considerably because of the loss of 25-30% of the Grenache crop due to poor flowering, but the levels of concentration, freshness and focus of these wines are remarkable. Moreover, the 2009s from bottle performed at the upper end of the ranges I had given them last year – always a sign of a terrific winery dedicated to high quality. Wine Advocate #197, Oct 2011
Other GREAT wines from this KILLER vintage in the Southern Rhone:
Most of the wines from this KILLER vintage have been released so if you are looking for anything that is not here just ask us and chances are we can get it for you.
2009 Domaine Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc
Price: $60.00
Quantity in Stock: 12
Notes of beeswax and anise to the pear and tangerine like citrus fruit very pretty nose hibiscus floral notes. A bit of an oily texture on the tongue nice richness on the palate ending a bit flat with a bit of heat showing on the finish also, beeswax like notes. Finish 40+ Most Excellent
2009 Kermit Lynch Cypress Cuvee Cotes du Rhone
Price: $16.50
Quantity in Stock: 10
Louis Barruol is an indefatigable force in the Rhône. He is the fourteenth generation in his family to be making wine in this sixteenth-century domaine in Gigondas. On what was once the site of a Roman villa, Louis’ cellars show spectacular remains of old, Roman vinification vats carved into the limestone. Together, he and Kermit blend our Cypress Cuvée (Rouge) and Sunflower Cuvée (Blanc) from his own vineyards. Louis selects the best parcels he can find, and then Kermit shows up and either has a cuvée bottled unfiltered, or he blends to find the assemblage that satisfies his esthetic criteria. This Vintage is 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache from vineyards mainly around Vinsobre.
2009 Terre d’Avignon Cotes du Rhone
Price: $15.00 Sale $13.20
Quantity in Stock: 6
The growing success we have enjoyed over the last three vintages is proof enough that the KL Côtes du Rhône fits both the taste profile and quality standards that our customers have come to expect. Since 1929, this winery has been bringing local vignerons together from the outlying areas of Avignon in the Southern Rhône to produce delicious wines that epitomize the region’s complex terroirs. Kermit works closely with winemaker Jean-François Pasturel to develop the blend. Pasturel is thrilled to be able to have the chance to produce a Côtes du Rhône he does not have to filter to death. It is his tête de cuvée, his pride and joy. 2009 CDR- 47% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 11% Cinsault, 7% Carignan Gigondas fruit. Very rich, spicy, and garrigue with good structure.
2009 Terre D'Avignon Cotes du Rhone Reserves des Armoiries
Price: $15.00 Sale $12.00
Quantity in Stock: 9
2009 Jean Luc Colombo Cotes du Rhone Abeille
Price: $11.75 Sale $9.40
Quantity in Stock: 12
2009 La Ferme du Mont Premiere Cote Cotes du Rhone
Price: $18.00 Sale $15.84
Quantity in Stock: 5
A nice amount of red berry pie like fruit on the nose cherry and wild strawberry with herbs and a hint of black pepper spice very forward and seductive a hint of raw hamburger meat. A very forward and ripe style with ripe round tannins and hints of raw meat and garrigue showing through the finish. Finish 35+ Very Good +
2009 Domaine Janasse Cotes du Rhone
Price: $18.00 Sale $15.84
Quantity in Stock: 22
(87 Points) The 2009 Cotes du Rhone, which is 50% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan, offers up a lively nose of sweet strawberry jam intermixed with blacker cherries. This wine has admirable purity and loads of spice, glycerin and body, as this is a lower-acid vintage with slightly more alcohol. It should drink nicely for 2-3 years.
This impeccably run estate, in the capable hands of Christophe Sabon, his sister Isabelle, and their father, is one of the superstars of the southern Rhone Valley. Over the last 12-15 years, the quality of the wines has gone from strength to strength, with brilliant wines being produced in all price categories. They make sumptuous, complex, world-class red, white and rose Cotes du Rhones, and year-in and year-out, their Chateauneuf du Papes are among the top three or four wines of the vintage. Tasting two great vintages (2009 and 2010) from the Sabons was one of the most thrilling tastings I have had this year. My tasting began with some unbelievable Cotes du Rhones. Wine Advocate #197, Oct 2011
2009 Domaine Joncier Lirac Rouge
Price: $25.50
Quantity in Stock: 10
The feisty, vivacious Marine Roussel took her time finding her place in the family domaine. Her father, Pierre, was an agronomist and started Domaine du Joncier in 1964. She joined the domaine in 1989, and has since taken on her new vocation with the zeal that only a true artist could possess. Marine aims to achieve balance, purity, and minerality in her wines—a noble, if not challenging, goal given the sunbaked terroirs she farms. On the right bank of the Southern Rhône, Lirac shares many similarities to both neighboring crus Tavel and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Her terraced vineyards of alluvial soil and galets roulés mirror Chateauneuf’s terraces right across the river. Marine has achieved organic certification in her vineyards and is now seeking biodynamic certification. Her soils are alive with microbiotic activity, lending a hand in both the long-term sustainability of her land and in the mineral expression of her wines.
2009 Chateau Puech-Haut Cante Lebre Coteaux du Languedoc
Price: $63.00
Quantity in Stock: 6
(90 points) Among several wines new to their line-up, Puech-Haut’s 2009 Coteaux du Languedoc Saint-Drezery Cante Lebre – a Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre blend – reflects an especially warm as well as galets roules- iron- and clay-rich section of the estate’s holdings by revealing a personality that I am sure would strike many tasters as Chateauneuf-like even if Chateauneuf guru Philippe Cambie had not begun calling the shots here with this vintage and somebody else had instead. Sandalwood; black raspberry, cherry and plum confiture; along with a whiff of leather, combine in a heady aromatic and sumptuously rich palate display. Resin and vanilla notes as well as a catch of tannin can be attributed to the extent of new wood in which the Syrah and Mourvedre portions of this resided. Cocoa powder and marzipan add to the confectionary aspect of this cuvee in a faintly warm finish (from 15% alcohol) whose confitured berries are sweetly persistent yet whose tannins left me chewing air rather than salivating. It will be interesting to see how this evolves, but in lieu of a specific track record I would simply urge owners to monitor it within 3-4 years.
I tasted the latest releases from Gerard Bru’s ambitious Chateau Puech-Haut with him; his hands-on cellarmaster Mathieu Ciampi; and a frequent inspiration and coach in matter vinous who since 2009 is the estate’s official enologist – Philippe Cambie. (Before that, Claude Gros advised here, and for a time, too, Michel Rolland.) The rotund devotee and guru of Chateauneuf has brought to these wines his flamboyant style and penchant for as he puts it “the maximum ripeness consistent with elegance.” There will certainly be differences of opinion as to whether the word “elegant” fits; and the wines succeed in varying degrees, largely according to whether new wood or alcoholic heat at all detract from other features, but there can be no doubt that the wines of Puech-Haut – like the men behind them – are both generous and formidable. And as often happens to me, amid wines of more lavish elevage, I found their ostensibly intro-level cuvee (now dubbed “Prestige”) more than held its own, resulting in outstanding value. Fermentation has moved entirely into enamel-lined tanks (albeit wood-paneled!) – the huge oaken tronconique having for some years now been “just for decoration” – and this step was undertaken not just on account of perceived thermal or hygienic advantages, but so as to accommodate the separate vinification of each parcel of this 250 acre estate. Much of the black fruit here is being left whole with its stems, while fermentative extraction was described to me as moving toward “infusion” and away from extensive punch-downs or pump-overs. More than once I heard allusions to Burgundy or to allegedly “Burgundian” approaches, although – abstracting from the prominence of barriques in their elevage – Chateauneuf-du-Pape would seem the more obvious analogy for these wines, not least now, given Cambie’s collaboration. Half of the elevage of the 2010 vintage – hence, encompassing the majority of red wines – was being carried out without sulfur, but even so, many lots were still in malo when I visited in April. To the extent that this vintage’s youthful red raw material could be assessed – with low sulfur admittedly coloring one’s impression – these will be extremely ripe and rich, often downright liqueur-like and frequently seductively floral wines for their vintage. The last grapes weren’t harvested until November 6, yet the team here made clear that they viewed the presence of “freshness” to accompany all that richness a great virtue of the 2010 vintage. That noted, the most successful of Puech-Haut’s many bottlings from torrid 2009 – which include several new, roughly 230-case, site-specific and single-cepage lots – have also managed to preserve a welcome degree of freshness. As for 2008, this is a vintage without any Pic Saint-Loup bottling as Bru and his team decided that the best they could do still did not make the grade, although their Saint-Drezery cuvees are highly satisfying, if less ambitious or seductive than their 2009 counterparts. Special note should be taken of the improvement shown here in recent white wines, the team having been at pains to capture freshness as well as richness by whole cluster pressing to tank or directly to barrel, and permitting the lees to work their magic undisturbed. (I exempt from that optimistic assessment a one-barrique, no-sulfur 2010 Viognier with strong scents of new wood and oxidation but not much, as far as I could detect, of Viognier!)
eRobertParker.com #196, Aug 2011
2009 Domaine du Grapillon D'or Gigondas
Price: $33.75 Sale $29.70
Quantity in Stock: 11
(89-91 Points) The 2009 Gigondas is mostly Grenache blended with a bit of Syrah and is aged completely in wood foudres. It exhibits wonderful sweet black cherry jam notes intertwined with notions of crushed rocks and flowers. Impressively endowed, dense and full-bodied, it is a classic old style Gigondas that is purely made with no hard edges. Enjoy it over the next decade. Proprietors Celine and Bernard Chauvet own 37 acres in Gigondas, primarily on clay and limestone soils. Wine Advocate #191, Oct 2010
2009 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape
Price: $121.50 Sale $106.92
Quantity in Stock: 6
(94 points) The 2009 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape is reminiscent of their brilliant 1985. It will be one of the rare Beaucastels that is drinkable upon release. Made from this estate’s classic blend, it possesses soft tannins as well as a silky, open-knit seductiveness, a dense plum/purple color and a beautiful perfume of smoky Provencal herbs intermixed with grilled steak juices, garrigue, kirsch and blue as well as black fruits. The wine is full-bodied, unctuously textured, and silky smooth (the latter characteristic being somewhat atypical for a young Beaucastel). If it performs like the 1985, it will drink well young and continue to do so for 25 or more years.
Brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois Perrin as well as their four sons, Thomas, Marc, Pierre and Mathieu, have quickly become the dominate wine producers of the entire southern Rhone Valley. They have expanded their operation even further by partnering with the Jaboulets. Now having over 1,200 acres in vine and extensive contracts, this is a high quality locomotive, great news for consumers seeking a range of top quality red and white wines in all price ranges. The Perrins’ greatest success is undeniably their enormous quantities of high quality, inexpensive wines called La Vieille Ferme, a white from the Cotes du Luberon and a red from the Cotes du Ventoux. The Perrins are now the top producers of wines from the cool climate southern Rhone appellation of Vinsobres, located in the northern sector of the region and meaning “sober wine.” In 2008, the Perrins purchased one of the better estates in Gigondas, Clos des Tourelles, a 25 acre property located at the southern end of the village from which they make two cuvees. True stars in the Perrin portfolio are the white and red Cotes du Rhone from their estate called Coudoulet which is adjacent to the appellation of Chateauneuf du Pape. As longtime readers know, Chateau de Beaucastel makes two of the great white wines of the southern Rhone, although in Chateauneuf du Pape the rather dramatic amelioration of quality that has taken place with white winemaking has given them more competition than they had a decade ago. Wine Advocate #197 Oct 2011
2009 Domaine Du Veiux Telegraph Chateaunuef Du Pape
Price: $84.00
Quantity in Stock: 9
(92 points) This 135-acre estate (all in the famed La Crau) has produced a 2009 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape composed of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the rest other authorized varietals (from vines that average 60 years of age). The wine is aged 18 months in foudres and concrete tanks. This classic offering had just been bottled before my visit, so it was probably tighter than it will be in 6-12 months. Deep ruby/purple-colored with notes of garrigue, seaweed, licorice, plums, black cherries and raspberries, it typically reveals a Mediterranean sea breeze-like character that is difficult to articulate. The sweetness of the tannin, full-bodied mouth feel, and evolved style remind me somewhat of the 1983, which is still drinking beautifully. The 2009 can be consumed now or cellared for two decades Wine Advocate #197 Oct 2011
What I Drank Yesterday:
Wine Dinner Review: Hartford Court Dinner at Market 17 with Special Guest Tom Rozner
Hartford Court's history began with the 1994 vintage and it was a short time after that when Don Hartford started travelling around to promote these wines. I had the opportunity in these early days to attend several tasting with Don Hartford when he was first establishing this brand. The first was with the 1997 and 1998 vintages of Hartford Court's wines versus top premier cru and Grand Cru Burgundy from some of the elite producers like; Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Leroy, Mugnier, etc. and with over 20 tasters in the room that day, served blind Don's wines came out on top! This was a brave move on his part but Don has a very good palate in addition to knowing enough about producing fine wines he also knew that his wines were good enough to go toe to toe with the best from anywhere and that on any given Sunday anything is possible.
From day one Hartford Court burst on the scene as one of Sonoma’s top producers of single vineyard chardonnay, pinot noir and zinfandel. Today, they are still turning out the hits and have never changed their goal, which is to produce the best wines made not only in California but anywhere in the world. It is good to see the high scores from the critics and that they made it into the list of top 100 wineries in the world in Wine & Spirits magazine not once but twice. This all confirms what I have known all along that these are among the best wines in their class produced anywhere.
The dinner was paired expertly with the wines and it enhanced the experience of these wines which are great all by themselves but magic when they are matched with complimentary flavors like we had this evening.
Tom also gave us his insight into the history of these vineyard sites and the winery to enhance the evening. I like to point out on a regular basis how important promotion is as you can make the greatest wine in the world but you need to be able to tell people why they are different and unique… and worth the money. And Tom is one of the best in the business, a great story teller and well versed on the subject of Hartford Court winery as well as wine in general. In addition to working for Hartford winery he is also currently studying for his MW.
I arrived late so I just caught a glass of the reception wine:
2010 Hartford Court Chardonnay Russian River
This is a blend of purchased fruit and estate grown Lovely richness on the nose tropical pear and apple fruit with a smooth and creamy texture on the tongue cool climate chardonnay with excellent balance of freshness and ripe fruit with notes of vanilla spice and mineral on the finish. Finish 40+ Excellent
Then we sat down for dinner and each course featured two wines that were the same varietal but different vintages or different vineyard sites. It is nice to have a set like this to compare similarities and differences between the wines.
2009 Hartford Court Stone Cote Chardonnay Sonoma Coast
Price: $69.75 Sale $61.38 Case $711.00
This is Durrell Vineyard the subdivision Stone Cote and the cote stands for hillside. The 2009 vintage looks to be a bit nicer than the 2008 but things are all relative when you are looking at producers like Hartford as their wines are always great even in challenging vintages, they just make less of them. Pretty aromas of buttered toast, very rich and fruity with Asian pear, tropical fruit vanilla bean, crème brulee and a slightly oily texture to the tongue. Very refined and elegant maybe a bit higher in octane than burgundy but very balanced for its weight. Finish 50 MOST EXCELLENT
2008 Hartford Court Seascape Chardonnay Sonoma Coast
Price: $69.75 Sale $61.38 Case $711.00
This is the true Sonoma coast with a very rich and concentrated nose of Vanilla crème cinnamon spice butterscotch and a bit of a honeyed botrytis like note reminiscent of Sauternes as well as a slight briny note. Decadent on the palate with a texture of cream with ripe nectarines with that botrytis showing through on the finish but this wine has enough acidity to match and al long finish. Finish 50+ Most Excellent +
Both of these Chardonnays worked very nicely with the richness of the Grouper with the spiced tangerine bamboo rice which added a nice citrus touch that worked very nicely with the fruit forward nature of these wines.
2007 Hartford Court Land’s Edge Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Price: $48.00 Sale $42.24 Case $490.00
Cola, red cherry fruit, licorice and notes of all-spice on the nose very exotic notes of pomegranate, cedar Asian spices with a silky smooth texture on the tongue. Finish 45+ Most Excellent
2009 Hartford Court Far Coast Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Price: $78.75 Sale $69.30 Case $803.00
Mint and Asian spices surrounding the black raspberry and cherry fruit with notes of underbrush/earthy quality, a very open bouquet. A big Pinot Noir on the palate that will be better with time and a bourbon like spice on the finish a bit tannic but has good balance and depth of flavors. Finish 45+ Excellent +
The roasted wild pheasant was a nice treat with the two Pinot Noirs, although they are very forward and fruity still had that earthy component that was enhanced by the oyster mushroom ragout which accompanied the perfectly cooked game bird. A potato torte was delicious and the garlic and thyme sauce was an undertone so it did not overwhelm the delicate Pinot Noir varietal.
2010 Hartford Court Russian River Pinot Noir
Price: $36.00 Sale $31.68 Case $367.00
This is the first vintage of this wine this wine, well maybe it was 2009 but they used to make a wine simply entitled Hartford Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast which was priced at around $20 which was very popular and then was discontinued to make only single vineyard selections. Raspberry and strawberry fruit on the nose with a bit of spice and toasty oak notes very ripe and forward fruit. A big Pinot Noir and may need a bit of time to come together fully but was nice with the Pork tenderloin with bacon cranberry chutney! Excellent
2008 MacLean’s Block Pinot Noir Russian River
Price: $72.00 Sale $63.36 Case $734.00
Purple floral notes along with coco and all-spice nuance to the nose very exotic Thick and chewy on the tongue with a raspberry coulis like fruit and again a host of exotic floral and brown spice notes to the finish. Finish 45+ Most Excellent
I like a nice pork product and the Hereford Pork tenderloin was cooked to perfection still quite tender and juicy and the best thing about this dish was the bacon and cranberry chutney. I just like bacon, you can put it on anything and I will give you high marks.
Jolene's Vineyard Zinfandel Russian River Valley 2009
Price: $58.50 Sale $51.48 Case $597.00
Brambly black raspberry fruit with exotic spices, black licorice and wonderful balance and depth of fruit. Finish 40+ Excellent
Hartford Court Old Vine Zinfandel Russian River Valley 2010
Price: $38.25 Sale $33.66 Case $390.00
The term Zino Noir has been coined for these Zinfandels as they have lovely freshness and even though they have a tremendous amount of ripe fruit and hello a very big dollop of Alcohol they still finish fresh and have a very elegant almost quality to them. Wow two excellent Zinfandels to end the evening- Did I say that?
The dessert looked nice but I always opt for the wines instead as when you are on the two bottle a day diet you have to cut out something and dessert is just the natural choice for me.
The crew at Market 17 did an excellent job this evening and if you have never been to this relatively new establishment you should check it out.
