A Study in Musigny Tasting at Wine Watch Friday February 3rd 7pm
I have enjoyed great health at a great age because every day since I can remember I have consumed a bottle of wine except when I have not felt well. Then I have consumed two bottles. - Bishop of Seville
A study in Musigny - The Ultimate Grand Cru Tasting
Friday, February 3, 2012
7:00 PM
We have been exploring the greatest wines that the world has to offer over the last few decades here at the Wines Watch, that is our reason d’etre. When it comes to studying a grand cru vineyard like Musigny, there is never enough money or time to get the job done right but tonight we have a truly “once in a lifetime” opportunity to study some of the greatest producers and vintages over the last 40 years. This tasting includes some of the best vintages with the limited availability of these wines making them so hard to find that this tasting would be a bargain at 4 X the price $2200, which would not even cover the price of some of the bottles of wine in this group. We offer you the opportunity to tasting these eight legendary Musigny Grand Cru wines along with a special tasting menu prepared by Toni Lampasone from Wine Watch Catering. The price of this event is $550 + tax. For reservations call 954-523-9463.
Tasting Line-up:
Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny 1999
Mugnier Musigny 1999
Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny 1995
Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny 1990
Louis Jadot Musigny 1990
Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares 1990
Mugnier Musigny 1988
Jacques Prieur Musigny 1978
Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny 1976
Pierre Olivier Bonnes mares 1964
Menu
Selection of Cheese: Epoisses, Goat, and Brie
Corriander and cardamom dusted Tuna steak over pinot noir reduction with savory sweet potato chips
Duck Confit with cherry fig demi glaze over English pea, corn, and wild mushroom Succotash seasoned with Crispy Bacon
Pinot Noir poached Anjiou pears served with a duo of chocolate fondue
A bit about Musigny:
Musigny, aka Le Musigny, is considered by some collectors to be among the best of all the Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) and Grand Cru vineyard for red and white wine in Côte de Nuits of Burgundy. Musigny is located in once of my favorite villages, Chambolle-Musigny. These wines have a soft approach on the palate but have incredible nuance to the bouquet and finish. To put you in perspective, to the south of the village itself, Musigny borders the Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot in the southeast, to Échezeaux in the south, and to the Premier Cru Les Amoureuses in the northeast. The name goes way back to a now extinct family from this region, de Musigny. This family held offices in the court of the Dukes of Burgundy from the 14th century and although the the AOC was created in 1936, the area that is Musingy has been respected by growers for several hundred years.
An interesting fact about Musigny is that it is the only Grand Cru vineyard in Côte de Nuits for white wine as well as red, although the production of red wine dominates by over 90 per cent. All the other Burgundy Grand Crus for white wine are located in Côte de Beaune.
Chambolle Musigny and all the wines from its vineyards, including of course Musigny:
2009 Alex Gambal Chambolle Musigny Magnum
Price: $130.50 Sale $114.84
Quantity in Stock: 6
2009 Alex Gambal Chambolle Musigny
Price: $63.75 Sale $56.10
Quantity in Stock: 22
As with the Vosne the perfume of its terroir is clear from the glass but there is an extra dimension to the mouth feel due to on barrel that was whole clusters. This added dimension makes this the most exciting and complex Chambolle we have ever made. We used 1/3 new oak and made 150 cases.
2009 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny
Price: $130.00 Sale $114.40
Quantity in Stock: 12
(89-91 points) "(from vines in the southwest portion of the village and includes some declassified 1ers from Les Baudes and Fuées). A beautifully layered nose speaks of extract of red berry fruit, especially raspberries, before sliding gracefully into the rich, delicious and seductively textured flavors that possess a silky mouth feel and plenty of verve on the mineral-inflected and solidly persistent finish. Lovely and understated. Comments: Outstanding. Drink: 2016+. (Jan 2011)" Allen Meadows (Burghound)
2009 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru
Price: $217.00 Sale $190.96
Quantity in Stock: 12
(90-93 Points) A similar but slightly riper nose includes blue berry and plum nuances that precede the more obviously mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract on the extremely pure and utterly delicious finish that is shaped by the buried tannins and given energy by the perfectly integrated acid spine. This is a seriously lovely effort. , Allen Meadows' Burghound (2011)
2009 Comte de Vogue Bonnes Mares
Price: $460.00 Sale $404.80
Quantity in Stock: 3
(93-95 Points) The 2009 Bonnes Mares offers up blackberries, dark cherries and spices along with a totally sensual, inviting personality. The wine possesses gorgeous aromatic delineation and freshness, not to mention tremendous purity in its fruit. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is superb. De Vogue’s vineyards in Bonnes Mares are on the clay-rich terres rouges, which always results in a more overt, fruit-forward style of Bonnes Mares. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.
A brilliant career as a wine writer awaits long-time oenologist Francois Millet should he ever tire of making wine. Millet’s visual descriptions of vintages and wines are among the most colorful I have ever encountered. The truth is that these wines need no words at all; the quality of what is in the glass speaks for itself far more eloquently than words ever could. De Vogue’s 2009s are remarkable for their textural richness, depth and pure breed. In 2009 Millet started picking on September 9 in order to keep as much as freshness as possible. The fruit was 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 15% for the Chambolle villages to 35-40% for the Bonnes Mares and Musigny Vieilles Vignes. The malos were on the slow side and for the most part did not begin until April 2010. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Chambolle-Musigny and Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru and as they were bottled just prior to my visit. I did have a chance to taste most of the 2008s. In many ways the 2008s offer better balance than the 2009s because the vintage characteristics play off the house style of textural richness, resulting in marvelous, totally complete wines. In 2008 the harvest began on September 27, quite a bit later than in 2009. A cool growing season was saved by perfect conditions that began on September 13 and continued through to the end of the harvest.
2008 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny
Price: $115.75 Sale $101.86
Quantity in Stock: 11
(88-91 Points) "Bright red-ruby. Musky, slightly medicinal aromas of raspberry, strawberry and minerals. Snappy, pristine flavors of red fruits, minerals, flowers and spices framed by almost peppery acidity. Not hugely ripe but boasts terrific cut and energy and finishes with sneaky length. Incidentally, the malolactic fermentations of the 2008s generally finished in August, after which the wines were racked." Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
2008 George Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru
Price: $191.00 Sale $168.08
Quantity in Stock: 10
(90-92 Points) A more elegant but more restrained nose features equally pure and high-toned red pinot fruit, stone and a hint of spice that gives way to gorgeously detailed, precise and energetic medium-bodied flavors that possess a textured mouth feel that sweeps into a focused and sappy finish of controlled power. In sum, this is a highly intense wine of finesse. Allen Meadows' Burghound (Jan 2010)
2008 Comte de Vogue Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Price: $410.00 Sale $361
Quantity in Stock: 6
(93-94 Points) Scents and flavors of grenadine, blueberry syrup, distilled herbal concentrates, as well as rose and peony floral notes surprisingly akin to those found in its siblings from Musigny mark the de Vogue 2008 Bonnes Mares. Saline, savory meat stock elements – which Millet considers “not really a true minerality like that of the Amoureuses” – suffuse a palate of impressive density yet textural caress, sweetness of fruit yet also sheer refreshment. Hints of resin and pepper add to the complexity of the finish. Rather than the transparency or interactive vibrancy of the Amoureuses and Musigny, we have here a more enveloping and serenely sustained personality. Wine Advocate # 189, Jun 2010
2007 Alex Gambal Chambolle Musigny
Price: $60.00 Sale $52.80
Quantity in Stock: 3
(87-89 Points) A high-toned nose that is very Chambolle in character with its airy, cool, elegant and wispy red berry fruit and wet stone aromas that give way to round, stylish and detailed flavors that also reflect a subtle minerality on the balanced, persistent and delineated finish. A lovely villages that should age well over the medium-term. Tasted: Apr 01, 2009 Drink: 2013+ Burghound Issue 34
2007 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Vielles Vignes
Price: $499.50 Sale $439.56
Quantity in Stock: 6
(95 Points) The step up in class is unmistakable with gorgeously complex, even kaleidoscopic and superbly elegant red, black and violet aromas trimmed with a dazzling array of spices, earth and a hint of smoke that adds unmistakable luster to the round, intense, muscular and exceptionally stylish broad-scaled flavors that possess excellent power and a building intensity that develops from the mid-palate to the explosive yet seductive finish. I really like the purity of expression here on the sappy and mineral-infused finish that has a dusty quality from all of the dry extract that coats the firm tannins. This is a big '07 built on a base of firm minerality but it remains impeccably well balanced and should live for decades so patience is definitely a virtue if you are a potential buyer. Tasted: Jan 30, 2010 Drink: 2027+ Burghound Issue 37
2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Vielles Vignes
Price: $475.00 Sale $418
Quantity in Stock: 1
(96 Points) This is also extremely floral with a reserved nose that is an airy, spicy and ripe mélange of red and blue pinot fruit that displays really lovely violet and rose petal notes that are picked up by the minerally, intense and harmonious flavors that are beautifully proportioned and are blessed with ample amounts of dry extract on the essence of pinot and explosive, energetic and hugely long yet incredible precise finish that is also built on a base of firm minerality. This is almost exotic in character yet everything is in beautiful concordance. In a word, great. Tasted: Jan 01, 2009 Drink: 2021+ Burghound
2005 Domaine Alain Burguet Chambolle Musigny Les Chardannes
Price: $84.00 Sale $73.92
Quantity in Stock: 12
(Score 90-92) Tasting note: This is wonderfully airy with almost wispy aromas of red and violet fruit aromas liberally laced with warm earth and underbrush that can also be found on the rich, full and sweet flavors that retain a fine sense of detail and precision on the sappy and mouth coating finish that goes on and on. Burguet has managed to preserve the elegance of Chambolle while combining it with the taut, even sleek muscle of Gevrey. As promising as the Mes Favorites if a bit more forward. -Burghound
2005 Faiveley Chambolle Musigny
Price: $85.50 Sale $75.24
Quantity in Stock: 5
1999 Frederic Magnien Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru
Price: $359.00 Sale $315.92
Quantity in Stock: 1
(94 Points) The medium to full-bodied, dark ruby-colored 1999 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses is exceptional. It reveals a nose reminiscent of cookie dough immersed in blackberry syrup. On the palate, broad layers of velvety blackberries, cassis liqueur, and black cherries coat the taster's mouth. It is rich, thick, and a hedonist's dream. There are no edges in this prodigiously ripened wine's character. It is feminine, harmonious, and the vinous equivalent of liquid satin. Drink it over the next 9 years. Wine Advocate #136, Aug 2001
1998 Domaine Jacques Prieur Musigny Grand Cru
Price: $395.00 Sale $347.60
Quantity in Stock: 1
1993 Domaine Leroy Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes
Price: $595.00 Sale $523.60
Quantity in Stock: 1
(94 Points) Among Leroy's premier crus is the Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes, with its amazing layers of ripe red and black fruits. It combines the judicious use of new oak with floral and berry scents. The wine is full-bodied, undeniably pure, and spectacularly rich and intense. When I traveled through Burgundy, it appeared Lalou Bize-Leroy may have as many critics as I do. Some producers accuse her of adding "Alicante" to her wines because she obtains such a deep color. Others claim she is hiding hundreds of cases of grand crus in another cellar since her yields cannot "possibly be so low." Of course all of this is nonsense, not to mention appallingly jealous behavior from producers who are scared to death that other growers might decide to follow in Lalou's footsteps. For now, Bize-Leroy stands at the top of the Burgundy pyramid, alone both literally and figuratively in her pursuit of the finest Burgundy can produce. I will keep my tasting notes brief, recognizing that in this situation it is almost criminal to try and describe wines that may be the greatest red Burgundies I will taste in my life. As even the immodest Lalou Bize-Leroy says, these wines are "an accident of nature." Tasting them, with their extraordinary ripeness, unctuosity, and opulence, with no hard tannin to be found, makes one think that 1993 was a completely different vintage for Domaine Leroy than it was for other Burgundians. Yes, Mama, low yields do translate into physiologically ripe fruit, concentrated wines, and exquisite quality. It goes without saying that everything in this cellar was aged in 100% new French oak (you cannot detect any oak in the wines because of their concentration), and bottled without fining or filtration - as usual.
No, Cindy Crawford wasn't sitting on my lap as I was tasting through Leroy's 1993s, nor was I under the influence of either the effusive and persuasive Lalou Bize-Leroy or any chemical substance. My notes are mostly of academic interest since the quantities of wine produced at Domaine Leroy in 1993 are so preposterously low that only cases of certain wines are available. Bize-Leroy's biodynamic farming methods, which do not permit any type of spraying, resulted in yields ranging from as low as 5-6 hectoliters per hectare (about 1/3 ton per acre) to a whopping 1/2 ton per acre. Not one of her vineyards produced as much as one ton of fruit per acre (30 hectoliters per hectare). The microscopic quantities produced of some wines have not only ensured prices that only billionaires can afford, but have also made it virtually impossible to find the wines. For example, consider the total production - for the world - of the following wines: Chambertin (75 cases), Musigny (75 cases), Latricieres (25 cases), Clos de la Roche (50 cases), Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes (50 cases), Richebourg (100 cases), Romanee St.-Vivant (75 cases). Wine Advocate # 100
Aug 1995
1990 Domaine Leroy Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Fremieres
Price: $475.00 Sale $418
Quantity in Stock: 2
(94 Points) Has everything in unbelievable amounts: concentration, fruit, color, tannins and suppleness. Stands out with its rich character of grilled, toasted oak, violet, raspberry and chocolate aromas and flavors. Will need years before the new oak and fruit flavors melt together harmoniously. Drinkable in 1999 or 2000. 143 cases made. – Wine Spectator Issue: Dec 15, 1992
What I Drank Yesterday:
Kobrand was in to ring in the new year with us with a few new releases from their top producer in my favorite wine region of the wine world the piedmont, Michele Chiarlo. These wines are politically correct and well made but are more from the everyday category than the “once in a lifetime” league.
2010 Michele Chiarlo Gavi Le Marne
Price: $18.75
A nice floral nuance to the nose wet white peach and light chalk like mineral. A light and fresh wine with white peach and lemon citrus fruit very clean with light chalky notes. Finish 25+ Very Good
2010 Michele Chiarlo Roero Arneis Le Madri
Price: $22.50
A light grain or beer like aroma to the lemon citrus and some chalky gravelly mineral. A tart lemon citrus on the tongue with the slight impression of a spritz with a light salty nuance through the finish. Finish 35+ Good +
2009 Michele Chiarlo Barbera D'Asti Le Orme
Price: $15.50
Fresh berry fruit on the tongue cherry with a note of black truffle and licorice spice on the nose. A fresh and fruity style of wine with a nice freshness on the finish light but very pretty with notes of fresh earth on the finish. Finish 30+ Good +
2006 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Tortoniano
Price: $59.75
A very piedmont bouquet of menthol, black tar and truffle nuance on the nose black cherry fruit and exotic spices, nice complexity on the nose. Red cherry liqueur like fruit on the tongue with fine tannins with nice freshness and good length on the finish showing some of that black spice on the finish, needs a bit of time to soften but has nice balance just a bit dry on the finish. Finish 40+ Excellent
2010 Michele Chiarlo Moscato D'Asti Nivole (375ml)
Price: $16.25
A bit of quinine tonic like nuance to the peach and orange citrus fruit with some pretty floral nuance. A very light Moscato in terms of frizzante slightly sweet but has great acidity and freshness on the finish. Finish 35+ Very Good
The family that introduced Cliff bars now is in the wine business and they are introducing an innovative packaging pouch that is very convenient but unfortunately only has a shelf life of 6 months. That is why we do not recommend wine in a pouch.
2009 Cliff Family The Climber Sauvignon Blanc California
Price: $13.50
Also have a bit of Riesling, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris and Muscat in the blend some nice floral notes to the pink grapefruit citrus and a hint of grassiness and some melon and fig fruit here also a very inviting bouquet. Still has a bit of that Sauvignon Blanc savoryness and a clean fresh finish, has an aromatic floral component and a bit of a tonic like note to the finish. Finish 35+ Good +
NV Cliff Family Chardonnay California 1.5 Liters Bag
Price: $16.50
Wine in a pouch from Lodi and Mendocino, already has a bit of a caramel or slightly oxidized nose with pineapple and apple fruit almost apple juice like quality to the wine. Finish 20+ Fine
NV Cliff Family Cabernet Sauvignon California 1.5 Liter bag
Price: $16.50
The fruit for this wine coming from the Central Coast, has a bit of an herbal nuance to the red currant berry fruit. Has some nice fruit and a herbal component but light and short finish, did I mention that the shelf life is only 6 months in this package. Finish 25+ Fine
2009 Cliff Family The Climber Red Blend California
Price: $13.50
A Zinfandel Based blend with Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Syrah. Lacking definition it is hard to pick what this is but knowing it is mostly zinfandel disturbs me. A smooth and fruity wine a crowd pleaser style. Finish 25+ Very Fine
2007 Cliff Family Cabernet Sauvignon Kits Killer Cabernet Napa
Price: $39
Bella Vino next to Taylor Refresher is where their tasting room is for this winery, they also have cliff bars and other Cliff apparel on sale here as well. A good bit of this fruit is coming from Howell Mountain and it is evident in the nose very mineral and fresh earth driven with dark spices, toasty oak and dark coco, cassis and black currant fruit. A big and tannic wine on the tongue but has lots of everything ripe cassis berry fruit and dark spices has nice balance and freshness on the finish, good length. 450 cases. Finish 50+ Excellent +
2007 Cliff Family Zinfandel Gary's Improve Napa
Price: $27.75
Only 300 cases of this wine produced this year and Gary one of the owners is a trumpet player thus- “the improve”. The nose here has a bit of a roasted character to the cherry and strawberry like fruit with notes of white chocolate and underbrush. The fruit is sweet and then tart with little backbone and although it is fresh at the end, not enough of everything here to last. Finish 30+ Good
Our friends from Terlato were in with a few things from this great portfolio of wines. One of the surprises today was from Santa Margherita winery, one of the cornerstones the Pinot Grigio market has come out with a Riserva Chianti that is actually very good.
2010 Rutherford Hill Sauvignon Blanc Napa
Price: $19.50
Light melon and fig fruit with white grapefruit citrus on the nose with a note of white flowers. Light and crisp with a nice savory finish with a bit of heat showing up at the end but pleasant. Finish 30+ Good
2010 Sanford Chardonnay Flor de Campo Santa Barbera
Price: $18
A bit of fresh buttered toasty to the nose with ripe peach fruit and a hint of mineral, nice complexity on the nose. A texture of 2% milk with nice richness on the tongue and hints of spice and good freshness and balance on the finish. Finish 35+ Very Good
2010 Sanford Pinot Noir Flor De Campo Santa Barbera
Price: 22.50
Fresh raspberry and strawberry fruit on the nose with hints of all-spice and floral notes. Smooth and silky on the tongue with a nice touch of spice and good balance and freshness a light style but very pleasant. Finish 35+ Very Good
2007 Santa Margherita Chianti Classico Riserva
Price: $25.50
A very Tuscan nose with fresh earth underbrush porcini mushroom and a good amount of wild strawberry like fruit. A good deal of forward fruit on the tongue nice concentration and depth of flavors with a short but pleasant finish and some of the earth tones showing through the finish. Finish 35+ Very Good
2008 The Federalist Zinfandel Dry Creek
Price: $24
A brambly wine with a hint of VA on the nose a nail polish hint not overwhelming but noticeable brown spice and black cherry fruit. A fruit forward wine with good balance for a Zin but finishes a bit short. Finish 35+ Good
2009 The Federalist Dueling Pistols Dry Creek Valley
Price: $36
50% Syrah 50% Zinfandel a light smoky nuance ot the nose with dark plum and black cherry fruit with a hint of brown spice and chocolate notes to the fruit. A big and fruity wine on the tongue smooth and velvety texture and nicely balance big but still has nice freshness on the finish and a good bit of spice on the end, notes of Chocolate. Finish 40+ Very Good +
2007 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Stag's Leap District Napa
Price: $68.75
Deep dark black currant and black cherry fruit with layers of dark coco, fresh black earth very complex bouquet of aromas. A very well built wine, classic style Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with smooth tannins and a firm underbelly of acidity and a long finish still a bit tannic but has lots of everything with dark chocolate and toasty oak spice through the finish. Finish 45+ Excellent +
