2000 FONTODI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA VIGNA DEL SORBO

(93 points) The illustrious house of Fontodi make this wine from 90 per cent Sangiovese with 10 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, trodden by foot, followed by 18 months in Alliers oak. It retains a dark, crimson colour with pink on the rim, and has a very meaty, plummy, dark-fruit nose where smoky bacon hints and a real tightness of cherry fruit are underpinned by subtle background oak. On the palate this is all about liquorice and kirsch like concentration, with plenty of dry extract, a very solid black cherry core of fruit and more smoky, cedary oak adding a savoury dryness to the finish. This is deep, spicy and impressive in a big, modern style. -Tom Cannavan.