2005 Gaja Barbaresco DOCG

(94 Points) Floral aromatics give way to bright spiced red fruits, menthol and licorice as the 2005 Barbaresco opens in the glass. This is a firm, classically built wine of notable elegance. The tannins are substantial yet beautifully woven into the wine’s mid-weight frame. This is another beautiful Barbaresco from Angelo Gaja, but it will require patience as it is tightly wound today. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. I was blown away by Angelo Gaja’s 2005 wines from Barbaresco. When all is said and done, Gaja may have well produced not the wine, but rather the wines of the vintage in a year that was excellent but not profound. While Gaja’s 2005 don’t have the explosive, multi-dimensional personalities of his 2004s, they are vibrant offerings that will thrill readers who love Piedmont wines. As always, Gaja blends in a small percentage of Barbera in his single-vineyard wines, but that is hardly noticeable in this vintage. I also noted less new oak than has generally been the case in the recent past. The wines showcase very pure expressions of Nebbiolo and are made in a style that appears to make fewer concessions to the decidedly international approach of previous vintages. In short, these are the most Piedmontese wines I have tasted from Angelo Gaja in a long time. Could it be that the greatest innovator in Piedmont over the last thirty five-plus years has taken a small step towards a more classic style? Wine Advocate # 179, Oct 2008