2013 DuMol Viognier Lia Russian River

(94 points) One of the best Viogniers made in all of California is the 2013 Viognier Lia. Barrel-fermented and aged 12 months on its lees and then moved to tank, this wine doesn’t see any new oak. It is a wine of great fragrance, exhibiting notes of apricot jam, honeysuckle, wet stones and some tropical fruit. It is fresh, medium to full-bodied, with crisp acidity and a long finish. Drink it over the next several years. This is the only white made at DuMOL where malolactic fermentation is completely blocked. DuMOL is one of the more admirable wineries in Northern California, specializing primarily in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but with some intriguing Syrahs, a super Viognier, and as of the last several years, two Cabernet Sauvignons. Kerry Murphy is the long-time owner and partner with his winemaker, Scotsman Andy Smith. The change they have been implementing over the last several years is to pick slightly less ripe, then move their wines into tank for three months or more prior to bottling. In some cases, this has given the wines less intensity and exuberance, but this seems to be the stylistic direction they are committed. (3/2016) Robert Parker's Wine Advocate