NV Jacquesson Cuvee 742 Degorgement Tardif Brut Champagne

(94 points) "(2014 base vintage; disgorged June 2018; 41% Avize and Oiry, 59% Aÿ, Dizy and Hautvillers; 1.5g/L dosage). Jean-Hervé Chiquet describes 2014 as a difficult vintage with some tense acidity, so he had too make a selection. Chardonnay was very good and the finished result was better than he was expecting from a challenging harvest. There is no question that the house is better positioned than ever to deal with the vagaries of Champagne’s seasons. The characterful distinction of the Jacquesson style is ever more defined as the house more tightly hones its sourcing, viticulture and vinification. The fruit hails from more noble sources than in the past, gripping grand terroirs with greater confidence of structure and tension, upholding taut focus of lemon and grapefruit amidst characterful expression of red apple fruit, tangy grapefruit and crunchy crab-apple bite. It’s riper, too, in a full straw hue, with flickers of exoticism reflected in persimmon, tangelo and pomegranate, yet at every moment vibrant, citrus-driven and honed. Skilfully managed barrel work spins beautifully woven texture without oxidation or oak character, building a fine, creamy mouthfeel that amplifies salty minerality. A well-crafted and characterful wine of great persistence and tension. (2020-2021)"  Tyson Stelzer (The Champagne Guide):