2021 F.X. Pichler Loibner Steinertal Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

(94 points) “From the coolest vineyard of the crus here and based on destemmed and macerated fruits, Pichler's 2021 Loibner Grüner Veltliner Ried Steinertal was vinified in stainless steel, aged in large oak until July and bottled in August and offers a clear, refined and elegant, indeed coolish bouquet of bright fruits. Full-bodied and intense on the palate, this is a gentle, very fine and elegant Steinertal with a dense core and an almost velvety texture. The acidity is fine and perfectly interwoven and the tannins are remarkably delicate. The finish is long and intense and shows stimulating bitters, but against all trends, there is not phenolic grip, which is what we often find in the Danube Veltliners of the 2021 vintage, but fine and healthy grip. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2022. (SR)” (12/2022). Wine Advocate.