2005 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de Marechale

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2005 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de Marechale image

(92 Points) In contrast to the expressiveness of the first two '05s, here there is a completely different aromatic profile and one that is brooding with more deeply pitched and quite ripe blue and violet aromas combining with pungent earth and game hints that continue onto the sweet, rich and sappy flavors wrapped around a firm tannic spine. This is impressive as it is clearly Nuits in character yet with refined and sophisticated structural elements. Also recommended. Burghound Issue 29, Tasted: Jan 01, 2008 Drink: 2015

Burghound Producer note: Frédéric Mugnier, who now has his new cuvérie up and running, told me that 2005 was blessed with a "great growing season. It was very regular and consistent with no excesses. We began picking on September 18th and except for 2003, the 18th is the earliest date that we have ever picked and coincidentally, we also began picking on the 18th in 2006. It's interesting to consider that what was once the record for the earliest harvest dates are fast becoming the norm. Where this will take us going forward is anyone's guess but it's something that concerns me greatly. The crop was extremely clean and there was very little sorting required. Sugars were strong at between 12.5 and 13.8% and there was no chaptalization with good if not high yields coming in a range of 35 to 40 hl/ha. For me 2005 offers the aromas of a fresh vintage but the richness and maturity of a ripe one." Mugnier has consistently said that the biggest benefit from adding the huge 9.5 ha vineyard of Clos de la Maréchale is that is enabled him to add additional vineyard personnel. As he explained it to me he had "1 vineyard worker for 4 ha and now I have 9 for 14 ha, 6 of which are permanent. Thus, when something has to be done immediately, I have people available to address the problem whereas before, there were sometimes scheduling delays." The benefit of this attention to detail cannot be overestimated as the increase in quality, which was already exceptionally high, has been immediately obvious. Indeed, as good as the Mugnier '04s are, the '05s have ascended to a new level of quality even while adjusting for the superior quality of 2005 versus 2004. Indeed, both the Musigny and Amoureuses are flat out incredible and the '05 Bonnes Mares is potentially the best vintage I have ever seen for this wine. Note that there is also a Nuits villages made from young vines Clos de la Maréchale called Clos des Fourches that was produced in 2004 but Mugnier found the quality so high in 2005 that he put all of the production into the Clos de la Maréchale. Mugnier was careful to note however that this is his view at present and it's possible that he may declassify a portion of Clos de la Maréchale as he did in 2004. Lastly, the Nuits white that Mugnier will make going forward was so reduced that he was reluctant to present it. (A Becky Wasserman/Le Serbet Selection - sbw@wanadoo.fr; Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; Vinalia, Los Angeles, CA; Morris

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