2012 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Batard Montrachet Grand Cru

(92-95 points) Bright, pale yellow. Rather inexpressive but fresh nose hints at ripe stone fruits, clove and menthol. Very rich, chewy and concentrated (the yield here was just 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Fontaine), but slightly bitter-edged and hard to taste today. This glyceral, extract-rich wine boasts terrific material and a very long, vibrant finish. (There was just a tiny quantity of Montrachet in 2012, and at the time of my visit that wine was in the cellar of Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange, owned by the family of Fontaine's wife Laurence, and with whom Fontaine-Gagnard shares this parcel.)  (10/ 2013) Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar