2023 Denner Vineyards Night Shade Paso Robles

(90 Points) A new introduction to the Denner lineup targeted at the restaurant market, the 2023 Night Shade is a blend consisting of 38% Grenache, 27% Syrah, 24% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Mourvèdre, 3% Graciano and 1% Zinfandel. Its Syrah component initially dominates the nose, beginning with notes of blue fruits, black pepper and olive tapenade that introduce a vibrant, pure and high-toned palate with a luscious, powdery finish. This is a solid representation of Denner's style reminiscent of the Ditch Digger blend.

Founded in 1999 by Ron Denner, the eponymous label has been a longstanding part of the Paso Robles community, centered around its 100+-acre estate in the Willow Creek District, which features over 20 grape varieties planted across different aspects and slopes. A second 22-acre vineyard is located in the Adelaida District. Like many Paso Robles contemporaries, there was an early focus on Bordeaux varieties that has gradually shifted toward those of the Rhône and Mediterranean. Since the property's acquisition by Gallo in 2022, a major revitalization project is underway, involving replanting over half the vineyard acreage due to red blotch and leafroll virus, along with a transition to organic farming.

2024 marked the beginning of a transition for longtime winemaker Anthony Yount, who will remain on as a consultant for the next few harvests as Mark Williams takes on the role of winemaker and general manager. The winery uses a gravity-fed system and relies heavily on whole-cluster fermentations, producing 10,000 to 15,000 cases annually. The barrel program is tailored to each variety: Rhône varieties typically age in puncheons with less new oak, while Bordeaux varieties receive more new oak in barriques for a slightly longer period. Williams and Yount have been experimenting with shortening élevage schedules for several SKUs, opting for more bottle aging before release to enhance freshness.  Published: Oct 02, 2025  Drink Date:  2025 – 2031, The Wine Advocate