2020 Bouchard Pere et Fils Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

(92-94 Points) The 2020 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru derives exclusively from Bouchard's holdings in the upper part of the vineyard, as the lower-lying plots are being replanted. It's a high point of the range this year, unfurling in the glass with aromas of violets, wild berries, dark chocolate, plums and orange rind. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with velvety tannins and a long, resonant finish, it's the best Clos Vougeot I can remember tasting at this address. Technical director Frédéric Weber and his team have realized another fine vintage chez Bouchard Père & Fils, beginning harvest on 19 August and sorting to remove dehydrated berries. The vineyards fared well despite a significant hydric deficit, testimony to viticulture that's among the best of the big houses; indeed, organic conversion is underway, and canopies are now hedged to 1.30 meters, around 30 centimeters higher than the classic low rognage that still predominates along the Côte—forward-thinking innovations that will no doubt find imitators in short order among other big players. In any case, the resulting wines have turned out beautifully, with alcohols in the region of 13% to 13.5% and lower pHs than in 2019. Vibrant, intensely colored and beautifully balanced, there are plenty of cuvées here that I'd be delighted to own. White wines chez Bouchard, readers should note, are bottled under DIAM closures. (WK) 92-94+ Wine AdvocateReview Date: 01/2022