2019 Labet and Dechelette Chateau de La Tour Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

(94-96 points) The 2019 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes is very promising, unwinding in the glass with notes of dark berry fruit, orange peel, rose petals, rich soil tones and spices. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, with rich, powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, resonant finish. This was a fascinating tasting with father François Labet and son Edouard, who are together pushing Domaine Pierre Labet and the Château de la Tour to new qualitative heights. Organic and now biodynamic farming in the vineyards, vinification with—in red—appreciable percentages of whole clusters in the winery and long élevage in the cellars are the order of the day. Perfumed, seamless and concentrated, the 2019s are immensely promising, and in a richer, more overtly muscular register, the 2018s (which I took the opportunity during my visit to re-taste in bottle) have turned out very well, too. I'll be hoping to spend more time at this address later in 2021 and plan to report back in more detail. (WK) (1/2021)  Wine Advocate