2015 Domaine Robert Chevillon Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains

It would be a mistake to dismiss this Passetoutgrain as a repository for undesirable Gamay grapes and Pinot Noir leftovers that did not make the cut. At Domaine Chevillon, this humble wine is a thing of beauty: the product of old vines from just outside Nuits-Saint-Georges, it is made with the same loving care as the Chevillons’ noblest premiers crus. A blend of two-thirds Gamay with the balance of Pinot Noir, it has a gorgeous perfume of wild berries with a touch of white pepper. This soft, graceful red rises above and beyond its humble appellation.

         The result is a wine loaded with energy, spicy complexity, and supple tannins—bargain access to one of Burgundy’s established masters, ready to drink tonight.