(95+ Points)
The most backward and meaty of this trio is the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape La Guigasse. Another “locked and loaded,” potentially legendary Chateauneuf du Pape from this lieu-dit, it possesses the highest level of tannins and more acidity than its siblings. Aromas of beef blood, smoked meats, charcuterie, raspberries and black cherries soar from this full-bodied, superb effort. While nearly too exotic and kinky, its length, richness, full-bodied mouthfeel and multidimensional personality result in a sensational Chateauneuf du Pape that I adored. Forget it for 3-5 years and drink it over the following two decades. This is a joint project between American importer Peter Weygandt and Baptiste Grangeon of Domaine du Cristia. All three parcels utilized for these wines are dominated by sandy soils, and are biodynamically farmed. The intention is to showcase old vine Grenache grown in sandy soils, bottle the wine without fining or filtration, and age it in old small oak barrels, or in the case of Le Grand Pin and La Guigasse, in 600-liter demi-muids. Yields are frightfully low as they are trying to capture the essence of these sites. Yields for 2010 were 12-14 hectoliters per hectare, and in 2011, they were slightly higher, but still very low for what was a generous crop. I am not sure if they made a 2011 Les Sablons, but if they did, it was not presented for tasting. While this estate’s track record is relatively brief, the wines to date have been nothing short of brilliant. Last year I went ga-ga over the unbottled 2010s and now that they have been bottled, that excitement is more than justified.
203, The Wine Advocate
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