Alpha Estate Barba Yannis Ecosystem Xinomavro Reserve Amyndeon Greece

(93 Points) The 2018 Xinomavro Ecosystem Reserve Vielles Vignes Barba Yannis Single Block was aged for 24 months in new French barriques and comes in at 13.82% alcohol. The "old vines" references ungrafted bush vines from 1919. One of the best red deals in Greece on a consistent basis, this is always distinguished for modest money. The winery has more expensive wines, but I'm not sure it has better ones in most years. As with the Alpha One, also reviewed, this has a lot of oak in the description but handles it surprisingly well. Also like the Alpha One, it won't exactly be the best choice for oak-a-phobes. Still, the fruit and structure are in charge here, not the wood. It is hardly offensive. It has more grip on the finish than the Hedgehog Xinomavro (if you're wondering why to trade up), and it feels fuller in the mouth, even though it is no riper. I wasn't sure this would be on par with last year's, but it evolved well and should have plenty of room for improvement in the cellar. It could use a year or three in the cellar to become more complex and harmonious, but it is approachable now. It should then age well, for another 15 years or so, give or take. Xinomavro doesn't die easily, so that may be conservative. It's another winner in this fine brand. Wine Advocate