2022 Weingut Franz Hirtzberger Honivogl Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau, Austria

(96 points) Not named after a site, the 2022 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl was picked from the loess of the Axpoint vineyard and the far rockier soils in the west-facing foothills of the Singerriedl. These are traditionally the ripest grapes of the estate. The nose has yeastiness and suppleness but is essentially shy. A rounded flow fills the palate with an essential smoothness that brims with creaminess and is channeled by ripe pear fruit. Savory salinity teases from deep within the wine and wants to come to the fore, but it needs time to emerge. The spicy core of Grüner's savoriness is there, it is just not ready to show itself yet. Wait for this, and allow its depth to emerge. This is very fluid and very smooth but has lovely contour and definition. (Bone-dry) Anne Krebiehl, Vinous (Feb 2024)