2009 Biggio Hamina Riesling Amity Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette

(88 points)   I also tasted a yet further two-barrel selection from each of Deux Vert and Zenith designed to push the qualitative envelope, but which due to their pre-bottling condition this June (not to mention their as yet lacking a name), Todd Hamina and I decided I would wait to report on until next year. While Hamina was for some reason not ready to show me his 2010, the Biggio Hamina 2009 Riesling Amity Vineyard is not only still very attractive – its meld of honeydew melon, mint, and nut oils could be that of a Sauvignon, here backed by subtle residual sugar that helps override significant bitterness – but for what little experience I have with Oregon Riesling might perhaps remain that way for a few more years. There is a lovely subtle creaminess to this, signaling an uncanny sublimation of acidity, but that doesn’t mean this wine’s springs of vitality have unwound. Give it a try! (Incidentally, Todd Hamina tells me that he is the only person to whom Amity’s Myron Redford sells fruit, in this instance from vines planted nearly four decades ago.)

Wine Advocate #202 Aug 2012