NV Bruno Paillard Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs, Champagne, France

Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru was born from the desire to show, through the blending of diverse vintages, a rich and precise expression of Pinot Noir from the northern crus of Champagne.

This wine is entirely composed of first pressing Pinot Noir from 4 Grands Crus: Verzenay, Mailly, Verzy and Bouzy. The first three of them have a predominantly northern orientation; these historic, chalky terroirs bring together the elegance and distinctive depth of Pinot Noir.

It is mostly vinified in stainless steel, with a small proportion of oak from aged barrels (15 to 20%, depending on the year) to enrich the blend.

It then spends three years on the lees. After disgorgement, the date of which is mentioned on the back label, the Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru rests for a minimum of six months in the cellar. Like all the Maison Bruno Paillard Champagnes, it is an Extra-Brut, with a dosage of 3g/l.

A chalky, dry, powdery, persistent finish, the faintest bitterness and gentlest phenolic squeeze enhancing its huge gastronomic potential. A slightly austere, cool, serious beauty, a black horse at a comfortable canter – more Bach violin sonata or Schubert piano trio than Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy,” but no less moving and powerful for that.

The World of Fine Wine – Neil Beckett – 2024