2021 FX PICHLER GRUNER VELTLINER RIED KELLERBERG SMARAGD WACHAU, AUSTRIA

(98 points) “Stunning and totally original nose of mango, lychee, Amalfi lemon and a complex mix of pepper aromas. Enormous concentration, yet it’s so vibrant, the staggering mineral freshness slicing through the richness on the mid-palate like a samurai sword halving a melon. But that makes it sound more dramatic than it really is, because this is so still and earthed. Astonishingly textural complexity at the finish for a wine from this grape with just 13% alcohol. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.” (9/2022). James Suckling.