2021 F.X. Pichler Durnsteiner Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

(94 points) “Here’s a wonderful wine for those who generally find gruner veltliner too broad and soft. Still very youthful on the nose, with Amalfi-lemon and mirabelle aromas. Although it has some of the white-pepper character of the grape, this is very delicate. Impressive concentration and a lightness of touch is also an unusual combination for the grape. Long, focused finish. Mostly from younger vineyards in the top sites of Dürnstein. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.” (9/2022). James Suckling