Pulenta Estate Dinner at Cafe Maxx with Edu and Diego Pulenta

It is better to hide ignorance, but it is hard to do this when we relax over wine.

~Heraclitus

The Super California tasting tomorrow night is SOLD OUT and our California Cult tasting on October 9th is almost SOLD OUT as well.  People love Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and are willing to pay big bucks for even a taste of wines like Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, etc. 

If you are a Napa Cabernet fan you should try some of the top level wines being made in Mendoza today.  Their making comparable wines at incredible prices and many will also age for a decade or more in your cellar like the great wines of Napa Valley and Bordeaux.

We have two GREAT events in a row at Café Maxx to end the week.  Friday night we have the biggest winery in Chile, Concha Y Toro Winery’s Marques de Casa Concha.  The menu should be ready for this event for tomorrow’s e-mail.

Then, a rare Saturday night event at Café Maxx with one of our favorite producers from Mendoza, who is not quite as well known as Concha Y Toro in Chile but Pulenta Estate is far from unknown in Argentina as their family has been making wines in Argentina for three generations. 

The immigrants that founded Argentina came from continental Europe in the 1700’s and there were a large amount of Italians who emigrated during this time period.  Many people who have visited this country see similarities between the European lifestyle and that of South America.  In fact, Argentina was at one time one of the largest consumers of wine in the entire world.  This was one of the main reasons why the quality of its wines was so poor, most of the wine never left Argentina and the local consumers were not very discerning with what they drank. This all changed in the 1990’s as hard spirits became fashionable and wine consumption began to decline.  This decline in wine sales left producers looking for a place to sell their juice.  As exporters began to show the wines of Argentina to foreign markets they realized that to compete with the rest of the free world they would have to make higher quality wine.  One of the most promising markets for Argentina’s wine in terms of exposure and long term relationship is the United States, but the quality of the wines would need to improve before the North Americans would take the wines of Argentina seriously.

The province of Mendoza is the traditional center of winemaking in Argentina, which produces more than 75% of the country's finest wines.  Malbec from the southwest of France is the red varietal that has best adapted to Argentine soil – I wanted to see first-hand what gave the Mendoza province the ability to produce the best Malbec specimens in the world.  So this summer I traveled to this wine region to kiss the dirt and one of my stops on this journey was one of my favorite producers, Pulenta Estate.

The Pulenta family has been a prominent and respected force in Argentine viticulture for three generations. Sons of well-known winegrower Antonio Pulenta, and descendants of Italian immigrants, Eduardo and Hugo Pulenta founded Pulenta Estate in 2002.  The vineyards are 100% estate-owned and farmed for high quality and limited yields. Their extensive holdings in the Agrelo area of Lujan de Cuyo have allowed them to create a broad portfolio that includes sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, chardonnay, pinot noir, malbec rose; merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and cabernet sauvignon in several tiers and even a late harvest red blend.

The tradition, knowledge, and experience of the family acquired during 100 years since the arrival of Angelo Polenta y Palmina Spinssanti to Argentina, is still alive today at Pulenta Estate.  All of the wines here are among the best you can find not only from Argentina but from any of the worlds’ top wine growing regions- even the Pinot Noir an unlikely hero from Mendoza is worthy of note.  Although this varietal is not considered Mendoza's best their current release of Pinot Noir was rated (95 Points) by James Suckling!!

My favorite wines from Mendoza are made with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietals but everything here at Pulenta estate over delivers for the $$$.  Their entry level Bodegas La Flor De Pulenta is an amazing value at under $15 per bottle for all of the varietals on this offering.  These are wines that you can open up every day and the Pulena Estate wines can be cellared for decades, they have the concentration, balance and complexity to age for decades.  Today we have an offering today on everything the winery has in the market currently and then some notes on things to come from my recent trip to Mendoza.

Join us as we welcome the current generation of the family to south Florida for dinner, Edu and Diego Pulenta will be here to showcase the newest releases from Pulenta Estate.  Chef Oliver Saucy is making a special five course tasting menu to pair with the wines and the fee for this dinner is $95 + Tax + Gratuity,   for Reservations call 954-782-0606.

Pulenta Estate Dinner at Cafe Maxx with Edu and Diego Pulenta
Saturday, October 3, 2015
7:00 PM

Pass arounds

Mini crab philo purses
Caramelized pear and foie gras tartlet
Seared sea scallop and citrus salsa

2014 Pulenta Estate Pinot Gris Mendoza
Price: $15.00       Sale $13.20          Case $153

Lemon citrus and pear like fruit on the nose this is a light and refreshing style with hints of wet stones and white flowers.  The winemaking here is fresh with a nice amount of fruit in the mid palate, they pick twice here and they do a very short cold soak to preserve the aromas no oak no malo one to two months on the lees, very delicate 3,000 cases produced small tight Bunches thin skins very fragile very easy to catch disease.  Very good +

First course

Almond roasted hog snapper, Granny Smith apple bread pudding vanilla beurre blanc and apple-arugula slaw

2014 Pulenta Estate Chardonnay VIII Mendoza
Price: $15.00    Your Price: $13.20               Case $153

Lemon and green apple fruit with a flinty mineral note to the nose hints of lightly toasted oak spice, vanilla bean spice, nutmeg. A very rich and creamy wine on the tongue with a very plush wine with a nice touch of spice, vanilla and cinnamon, a firm hand of acidity, very well built, this wine should last for 3-5 years at least very well balanced. Finish 40+  Excellent +

Second course

Braised beef Bolognese & penne pasta, Italian sausage, plum tomato and parmesan creama

2012 Pulenta Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza
Price: $25.00       Sale $22.00          Case $255

WINERY TASTING NOTES:  «In color, the wine is dark red. Its aroma expresses green pepper, dried fruits and delicate notes of tobacco and smoke given by the oak aging. On the palate, its varietal strength is expressed. Its tannins are soft, velvety and sweet, revealing a tireless dedication from the vineyard to the bottle».  Production: 2.000 cases.

Third course

Short rib empanada, pasilla pepper sauce, queso fresca and roasted corn

2011 Pulenta Estate Malbec Mendoza
Price: $28.00       Sale $24.64          Case $286

Has a bit closed with a meaty a blend of both vineyard sites and has a good amount of minerality here along with a nice richness to the palate.  The wine takes a bit of time to open up but that is a character of a great wine and after a few hours the fruit really comes out along with pretty violet floral aromas, very nice complexity here and shows future potential.  Finish 45+ Excellent +

Fourth course

Green peppercorn grilled prime rib eye of beef, peppercorn sauce and grilled vegetable

2011 Pulenta Estate Gran Cabernet Franc XI Mendoza                  
Price: $43.00       Sale $37.84          Case $439

A good amount of peppery spice, with hints of eucalyptus, tobacco dried with intense blackberry fruit, only 2500 cases produced of this 100% varietal wine, there is only one block of 5 hectares planted on the estate to this varietal.  A good amount of that peppery spice with a lovely balance of fruit and once again excellent freshness a bit of dry tannins at the finish, this wine opened up very nicely, smoothing out the next day.  Finish 45+                Excellent +

2011 Pulenta Estate Gran Malbec Mendoza                                      
Price: $43.00       Sale $37.84          Case $439

Production of this wine is only 2.500 cases.  This is the top tier a blend of two different vineyards, Uco Valley and Alto Agrelo, vinified separately and aged in French barrel for 18 months.  A good amount of dark berry fruit, blackberry, black licorice, violet floral and espresso notes.  Rich and ripe black berry fruit on the tongue with a good amount of dark mocha and licorice spice, big but still quite fresh at the end.  Finish 45+ Most Excellent

Dessert

Chocolate Ganache truffle with mixed berry sauce

N/V Pulenta Cabernet Franc Tardio N/V (375ml)              
Price: $45.00       Sale $39.60          Case $459

The fee for this event is $95 + Tax + Gratuity, for reservations call 954-782-0606.

Other wines from Pulenta Estate that we have in the store.

2014 Bodegas La Flor De Pulenta Estate Sauvignon Blanc Mendoza                         
Price: $15.00    Your Price: $13.20               Case $153

WINERY TASTING NOTES: «The color of the wine is a greenish-yellow. It has an intense aroma, reminiscent of white flowers and citrus fruits with delicate notes of green apples and pineapple. On the palate it is characteristically fresh, with an excellent balance of structure and acidity, giving it a good persistence on the palate.

2014 Bodegas La Flor De Pulenta Estate Rose Mendoza
Price: $15.00       Sale $13.20          Case $153.00

They have been making this wine for 10 years, it is a darker rose. They have a special block that they farm to make rose, leaving more leaves on the vines and they water more along with an earlier harvest.  On the nose this wine has aromas of pretty red cherry and fresh floral notes with a bit of fresh earth here as well.  A crunchy rose like fresh cut watermelon.  Finish 35+. Very good+

2013 Bodegas La Flor De Pulenta Estate Malbec Mendoza
Price: $15.00       Sale $13.20          Case $153.00

Very pretty nose like raspberry preserves strawberry fruit very pretty a mixture of fruit from both valleys.  Higher yields in the vineyards and they harvest a small part a bit earlier to keep the freshness along with a shorter maceration smooth and drinkable 6 months in older barrique (3-5) years old, a light and refreshing style very pleasant.  Finish 35+  Very Good

2013 Bodegas La Flor De Pulenta Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza
Price: $15.00       Sale $13.20          Case $153.00

Made from 100% Agrelo fruit, this wine has nice hint of peppery spice to the red currant berry fruit, a very smooth and drinkable style of Cabernet Sauvignon with a hint of dry tannins at the end but focus here is the red cherry and currant berry fruit with notes of flowers and earth on the finish, a very pleasant wine, a bit more than just a crowd pleaser.   Finish 35+  Very good +

2011 Pulenta Estate Gran Corte Red Mendoza                  
Price: $45.00       Sale $39.60          Case $459

A blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Tannat, only 1500 cases produced.  A big bouquet of dark berry fruit, mocha, toasty oak spice, dark cherry liqueur and dark chocolate, very rich and lots of richness but still elegant.  A very rich and chewy wine with a good amount of dark spices, coco and sweet tobacco with dark earth, intense minerality and more, big but still quite balanced through the finish, this wine has excellent structure and depth, even better on the second day, this wine should age for a decade or more in your cellar.  Finish 50+                Most Excellent +

Our first notes from the Mendoza tour 2015

Our visit came at the same time as one of the biggest snowstorms that hit the Andes in the last three years.  After a big snowstorm hits the mountains from Chile to Argentina, it pushes all of the warmer air down through the valley and lowers the pressure creating a lot of dust and cloud like effect making the sky gray in color and creating a howling wind known as the Zonda.  This wind can be quite strong, knocking out power lines as it did at Pulenta Estates’ Rancho house on our first night but thanks to modern technology and a generator the power was back up within the hour.   This snowstorm was much needed as this picture above shows a canal in the vineyard which is now completely dry.  In the past when it does rain, this canal completely floods its boundaries and takes out trees and anything else in its path including bridges.  It will soon be filled with water again when the snow from this storm melts in a month or so.  This Zonda wind from the mountains usually happens in August but if it happens a bit later it can affect the flowering which in turn can be good for the concentration of the grapes as it can lower the yields having a natural crop thinning effect.

The grill is a great way to prepare Argentina’s national food and the third generation of Pulenta’s showed us how they do it with the fire on the side and this slow cooking lends to very juicy tender steak with the pepper and egg combination also a local tradition explained to us by Pulenta winemaker Javier Lo Forte.  You will see both of these at one of our upcoming Wine Watch wine tasting events- maybe when Eduardo comes to town in late September.

The Pulenta family has been growing grapes for three generations in Mendoza and when they arrived from Italy at the turn of the last century in Buenos Aires like all the immigrants at that time they were quarantined for 40 days.  After they determined that they were disease free, the Argentine government sent the family off to Mendoza because of their history in the wine industry in Italy. 

They focused their efforts on growing grapes until 2002 when they began producing their own wines under the Pulenta estate wine label.  Today they harvest 1 million tons of fruit but sell about 70% of the harvest and only keep the best for the wines with their namesake.  

They have two vineyards; the Agrelo property is around 120 hectares and was planted in 1991 originally to Chardonnay and merlot under the advice of famous Bordeaux enologist Michel Rolland.  Today, they have grafted many of those original vines over to Petit Verdot, Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Cabernet Franc but they still have 6 blocks of that original Merlot used for blending. 

The family also has another vineyard in the Uco valley which was planted in 1980.  It is 340 hectares and with these two properties they supply 100% of that fruit needed for the Pulenta Estate wines.

The new challenge for the winery is to try to show the difference between the two terroirs and they will soon release their first Pulenta estate wines from the two sites showcasing the difference in these two terroirs.  We have notes on these wines coming up later in this review and the picture below is a cross section of soil from the Agrelo vineyard as they are studying the profile of the soils to better understand the nature of the wines produced here.

Eduardo is the third generation of Pulenta's in the wine business and his father is also Eduardo so there was no question what his career would be as they have a strong sense of place here for the family business and he could not have picked another profession as the Pulenta Estate winery would not be the same without the passion and knowledge that his family as bestowed on him.

Almost the entire Pulenta family is involved in the wine industry but one of Eduardo's uncles runs an import company that deals with Porche cars and ironic enough most of the family also has a passion for racing cars.  At the winery they have several racing engines on display and it is appropriate that they are the wine company chosen by the executives at Porche to create a special wine label to celebrate the release of each new Porche model.

Another of Eduardo’s uncles Carlos runs Vista Alba vineyards, which is a vineyard property of approximately 60 hectares.  All three of these Pulenta family vineyards were planted by Eduardo's grandfather.

Carlos Pulenta owns Vista Alba winery today but he has also been involved with other important projects like Salentine from 1997-2006, he was the CEO but after selling a 50% stake in this winery he was forced by the new owners to focus solely on Vista Alba.  Although the family has competing interests in terms of different wine labels they are still very close and Carlos is Eduardo's godfather.

Trapiche which is the largest winery in Argentina today was also one of the family’s brands until they sold it in 1997.  They sold winery facility along with the vineyards in the east and kept the rest, leaving them with some of the top vineyard sites in Agrelo wine growing region.

Pulenta Estate is on the cutting edge of technology in the vineyards and they realize that soils are important but they are also using satellite photos to learn how to manage the canopy better.  Photos and the sensors in the vineyards show the different Canopys affect plant vigor and give them a better understanding on when to harvest achieving optimum ripeness.  They also pick also at different times to get different ripeness levels for a perfect balance of fruit, acid and tannins.

They use a combination of concrete, stainless and wood tanks.  The concrete give them and advantage making bigger wine because they keep the temperatures better with temp control on the walls and floor of the tanks.  Stainless Steel tanks more freshness do all of the whites go in stainless except a portion of the Chardonnay.   They barrel ferment to give spice micro, oxygenation and mix the three together to give added complexity to the resulting wines.

They have some very small tanks that they can play with and do research with small lots of specific parcels of the vineyard.  Winemaker Javier Lo Forte has free reign to experiment with the wineries top parcels to create better wines each year as he can play with a lot of different trials, like the Chardonnay is now 50/50 steel and barrel fermented giving them the ability to come up with the perfect blend of ripe fruit, freshness and oak spice.  The chardonnay is surprisingly good considering it’s $15 price tag and the 2014 may just need a bit more time in the bottle as I didn’t have a chance to try it on the second day like at our chardonnay tasting featuring the 2013 vintage earlier in the year.

Roto fermentors make the red wines softer and rounder and they are also using barrels to do the same.  And they have a room that they can heat up to induce malo if necessary.  All these new tools and technology are part of the reason that these wines are at the top level of quality but they also use old technology like hand harvesting.  They hand harvest everything and have had their workers for a long time so if they have fruit that is not up to par and they leave it on the vines as we noticed there was still bunches of grapes on the vines on our visit in the middle of winter.