2009 Burgundy Tasting at Wine Watch

It's a naive domestic Burgundy without any breeding, but I think you'll be amused by its presumption.
James Thurber 1894 – 1961 Caption for cartoon in The New Yorker

This 2009 vintage from Burgundy is one of the most intriguing that I have ever experienced. We do tastings with the new releases from Burgundy every year and for the last two decades I have tasted great vintages upon release and can remember people who love wines leaving these events saying “I did not like any of these wines.” Burgundy can be very hard to enjoy when it is very young in a great vintages. The 2009 vintage seems to have the best of both worlds, an occurrence that rarely happens in a vintage that is considered to be GREAT in Burgundy. This rare trait of immediate drinkability and the ability to age, the thing that defines great vintages is a once in a lifetime occurrence in Burgundy and for those of you that appreciate this great wine we highly recommend that you attend this tasting. Many of this year’s top wines are now available for purchase and unlike in Bordeaux, the great wines of Burgundy are available in very limited quantities, some of Burgundy’s best wines have annual production levels in the hundreds rather than thousand of case range.

We will taste some of the top wines that have arrived including a preview of wines to be showing at the Alex Gambal tasting in February.  We could call February Pinot Noir month starting out with our Musigny tasting back to 1964 on the 2nd, then we are adding Pinot Noir to the Pre Valentines Champagne tasting and we will end the month with our good friend Alex Gambal on the 25th.

Alex makes extensive notes on the vintage as well as notes on the wines and I have included them below.  I would encourage you to read Alex's comprehensive notes as to why 2009 was a "once in a lifetime" vintage in Burgundy.  Here is a brief excerpt that sums up the vintage:

"Grapes sugars on steroids; did I write that? I am afraid so but it was and is still true. What happened in 2009 was very unusual because the skins i.e. tannins were ripe and continued to ripened actually in advance of the seeds. In 2005 you had very ripe seeds; really a 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 balance between the fruit, tannin and acid. In 2009 we have a much higher proportion of ripe tannins and a lower acid level with about normal to higher but not over the top sugar levels. At the end of the day this gives you a sweet velvety wine with no rough edges. Bear in mind however the tannin levels are VERY high but you simply do not notice them. After tasting through 10-15 different wines you begin to realize that there is a boatload of tannin in the wine but they are not aggressive or harsh; the sensations is of melted chocolate in the mouth."  Alex Gambal

Join us as we sample some of the top wines that have arrived here along with some incredible food pairings from Wine Watch Caterings’ Toni Lampasone. The fee for this tasting is $75 + tax for reservations call 954-523-9463.

2009 Burgundy Tasting at Wine Watch
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
7:00 PM

Tasting Line-up:

2009 Alex Gambal St. Aubin Dents de Chien
Price: $46.50       Sale $40.92

The Dents de Chien and its rocky soil that drains so well again gave us magnificent grapes in 2009. As usual we were the last to pick and again there is a wonderful richness and “hot rock” stoniness you get from Dents de Chien. We made 300 cases in ~ 20% new oak.

2009 Alex Gambal Volnay En Chevret
Price: $62.25       Sale $54.78

Chevrets is as Clive Coates says in his book Cote D'Or; "Volnay of real silk, lace and the complexity of all the petits fruits rouges you can imagine," . It may not one of the best-known Premiers Cru in Volnay, which some in the know consider a bit odd, because of its location, surrounded on two sides by Volnay Caillerets and on the third by Volnay Santenot.

2009 Louis Jadot Gevrey Chambertin
Price: $57.75       Sale $50.82

(87-90 Points) "Jacques Lardière noted that the village of Gevrey-Chambertin has more good vineyards devoted to AC level wines than anywhere else in the Côte d’Or, and in 2009 he has had the good fortune to really find some outstanding grapes with which to work. The result is a stellar villages bottling in ’09, as the wine jumps from the glass in a classy blend of cassis, black cherries, dark chocolate, a touch of grilled meat, smoke and black minerality. On the palate the wine is deep, quite full-bodied, complex and serious, with fine mid-palate depth, ripe tannins, lovely balance and a long, classy finish. A superb village wine. 2014-2030+. 91." John Gilman a View from the Cellar 1/11 "Good deep red. Expressive aromas of dark fruits, coffee and chocolate. Sweet, very ripe and pliant, with enticing inner-mouth aromatic character. Finishes with ripe tannins and lingering sweetness. This will make a good restaurant wine but should also last well. This was my favorite of the Jadot village wines, although the Nuits-Saint-Georges should turn out well, especially if Lardiere declassifies some premier cru juice into it, as he expects to do. .." IWC 1/11

2009 Bouchard Pere & Fils Le Corton
Price: $103.50    Sale $91.08

Intense bouquet with aromas of fruit and spice. Rich and structured on the palate, this wine needs a bit of patience in order to reveal its raciness and great distinction. Excellent ageing potential.

2009 Albert Bichot Pommard Clos des Ursulines Monopole
Price: $58.50       Sale $51.48

On the Domaine de Pavillon right on the limit of Volnay and Pommard 4 Hectares. Thick black raspberry like fruit on the nose with dark spices and some minty herbs like nuance also some gravelly mineral nuance. Great concentration and depth of flavors with a bit of a tart note to the red berry cherry fruit but lovely balance and notes of rose petal and great freshness. Finish 45+ Excellent +

2009 Albert Bichot Vosne-Romanee les Malconsorts 1er Cru
Price: $128.25    Sale $112.86

Very pretty bouquet of black cherry and very pretty exotic spice, this is the vineyard right next to La Tache, very nuanced with exotic floral nuance, with a note of animal very complex bouquet, very exotic. Big and chewy on the tongue with lots of structure on the palate with layers of spice and pretty floral notes along with gravelly mineral nuance. Finish 45+ Most Excellent

2009 Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune Greves L'Enfant Jesus 1er Cru
Price: $103.50 Sale $91.08

A bit of a roasted character to the black raspberry like fruit a bit reserved right now but still with wonderful intensity and precision. Wonderful silky texture has that textbook minerality of Beaune Greves gravelly minerality, and a long finish needs time but again has all the pieces. Finish 45+ Most Excellent

2009 Alex Gambal Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Price: $165.75 Sale $145.86

For the first time we were able to purchase grapes and vinify Clos Vougeot in "our style." This is to say with an elegance and class that sometimes is wanting in the Clos. Less brown cinnamon spice than in 2008 and more red ripe and intense red fruits with ample but elegant tannins. We made 150 cases in 50% new oak.

We will have a few surprises as usual after this including the Bernhard Huber Spatburgunder from the Baden region of Germany.

Menu:

Selection of Cheese: Epoisses, Brie and white Cheddar

pouchouse of River Fish Soup with cucumber sour cream croutons

coq au vin brioche -Bacon and wine braised chicken with hearty herb Brioche toast

 

2009 Vintage Burgundy Available:

We have a nice stash of 2009's in the store and many wines are still available.  If you are looking for something that we do not have here just let me know and I will try to find it for you.

2009 Alex Gambal Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee Les Doux Papis
Price: $27.75                       Sale $24.42
Quantity in Stock: 47

Lots of ripe forward delicious red cherry berry fruit on the nose with notes of fresh mushroom and earthy character to the nose along with hints of dried flowers and oriental spice very good complexity for a Bourgogne rouge.  Ripe and juicy red berry fruit on the tongue with a silky smooth texture on the tongue with all the nuance in the nose showing through the finish along with lovely freshness, drinking nicely right out of the bottle but should improve with a few years in your cellar as well. 

2009 Alex Gambal Savigny Les Beaune Rouge
Price: $36.00                       Sale $31.68/
Quantity in Stock: 18

2009 Alex Gambal Chambolle Musigny Magnum
Price: $130.50                    Sale $114.84

2009 Alex Gambal Chambolle Musigny
Price: $63.75                       Sale $56.10
Quantity in Stock: 22

As with the Vosne the perfume of its terroir is clear from the glass but there is an extra dimension to the mouth feel due to on barrel that was whole clusters. This added dimension makes this the most exciting and complex Chambolle we have ever made. We used 1/3 new oak and made 150 cases.

2009 Alex Gambal Volnay En Chevret
Price: $62.25                       Sale $54.78
Quantity in Stock: 21

Chevrets is as Clive Coates says in his book Cote D'Or; "Volnay of real silk, lace and the complexity of all the petits fruits rouges you can imagine," . It may not one of the best-known Premiers Cru in Volnay, which some in the know consider a bit odd, because of its location, surrounded on two sides by Volnay Caillerets and on the third by Volnay Santenot.

2009 Alex Gambal Vosne Romanee Vielle Vignes Magnum
Price: $142.50                    Sale $125.40

2009 Alex Gambal Vosne Romanee Vielle Vignes
Price: $68.25                       Sale $60.06
Quantity in Stock: 29

When I want to show someone what is "terroir" I often show our Vosne that has the classic spicy nose and mouth feel. Along with its terroir the wine explodes for the glass with the wonderful ripe fruit of 2009. We made 175 cases with ~ 1/3 new oak.

A very spiced and nuanced wine on the nose with a good amount of that animal nuance compared to the 2009 Sea Smoke Southing, which this wine was tasted alongside. Smokey bacon fat nuance, all-spice and fresh earth, truffle hints very exotic bouquet with wild strawberry and red cherry like fruit, lovely intensity. Smooth and decadent texture on the tongue, silky velvety with a good amount of tannins but silky and ripe. A very long and layered finish with incredible length for a village wine. Finish 50+ Most Excellent

2009 Alex Gambal Echezeaux Grand Cru
Price: $192.00                    Sale $168.96
Quantity in Stock: 8

Many of you fondly remember the Echezeaux we made from 1998 until 2005 and how it was always a wine of elegance, spiciness and a perfume of violets. When our supplier retired we lost this wonderful source and finally in 2009 we found a worthy replacement. The 2009 has a silkiness that is what we love in great Burgundy and is a text book example of what pinot noir can be. We only made 2 barrels; 50 cases of which 1/2 is new oak.

2009 Alex Gambal Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Magnum
Price: $345                                          Sale $303.60

2009 Alex Gambal Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Price: $165.75                    Sale $145.86
Quantity in Stock: 9

For the first time we were able to purchase grapes and vinify Clos Vougeot in "our style." This is to say with an elegance and class that sometimes is wanting in the Clos. Less brown cinnamon spice than in 2008 and more red ripe and intense red fruits with ample but elegant tannins. We made 150 cases in 50% new oak.

2009 Alex Gambal Chambertin Grand Cru Magnum
Price: $637.50                    Sale $561
Quantity in Stock: 2

The 2009 Chambertin is everything one hopes for in great Burgundy with brown sugar nose, elegant attack and a finish that grows for 3-5 minutes. This is what we want in great wine as in great art an impression that literally is branded into your memory; a memory you can return to at will to relive the moment as with great music, a great painting or great architure. We made 50 cases in 100% new oak.

2009 Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune Clos St Landry Blanc
Price: $50.00                       Sale $44
Quantity in Stock: 1

2009 Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune Clos De La Mousse 1er Cru
Price: $50.00                       Sale $44
Quantity in Stock: 1

2009 Bouchard Pere et Fils Volnay Clos Chenes
Price: $65.75                       Sale $57.86
Quantity in Stock: 3

(91-93 Points) A pure and ripe nose of cherry and plum liqueur marries into rich, powerful and mineraldriven medium-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract which confers a seductive texture on the firm, dusty and beautifully detailed and intense finish that delivers impressive length. This is a classy effort that will require ample cellar time to reach its full maturity yet one that should be approachable in its youth. Burghound.com

2009 Bouchard Pere & Fils Monthelie Les Duresses
Price: $38.50                       Sale $33.88
Quantity in Stock: 6

More hours of sunlight gives a lot of maturity better than in 2005 and more minerality. Lovely bright red cherry fruit with a good hand of fresh flowers and exotic spices and no pumping over very pretty destemmed all the cotes du beaune, lovely complexity on the terroir higher on the hill more freshness. they have 3 different Montelele, can be a bit rustic smooth tannins through in 2009 Les Duresses cooloer climate SW of Volnay. Wonderful freshness and still has a bit of thatrustic nature of the climate. Finish 45+ Excellent

2009 Bouchard Pere et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 1er Cru
Price: $76.50                       Sale $67.32
Quantity in Stock: 1

Exquisite fruit and spice aromas. On the palate, perfect harmony between structure and elegance: rich, complex and voluptuous. Very good ageing potential.

2009 Bouchard Pere & Fils Nuits St Georges Les Cailles
Price: $102.00                    Sale $89.76
Quantity in Stock: 6

2009 Bouchard Pere & Fils Le Corton
Price: $103.50                    Sale $91.08
Quantity in Stock: 12

Intense bouquet with aromas of fruit and spice. Rich and structured on the palate, this wine needs a bit of patience in order to reveal its raciness and great distinction. Excellent ageing potential.

2009 Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune Greves L'Enfant Jesus 1er Cru
Price: $103.50                    Sale $91.08
Quantity in Stock: 17

A bit of a roasted character to the black raspberry like fruit a bit reserved right now but still with wonderful intensity and precision. Wonderful silky texture has that textbook minerality of Beaune Greves gravelly minerality, and a long finish needs time but again has all the pieces. Finish 45+ Most Excellent

2009 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny
Price: $130.00                    Sale $114.40
Quantity in Stock: 12

(89-91 points) "(from vines in the southwest portion of the village and includes some declassified 1ers from Les Baudes and Fuées). A beautifully layered nose speaks of extract of red berry fruit, especially raspberries, before sliding gracefully into the rich, delicious and seductively textured flavors that possess a silky mouth feel and plenty of verve on the mineral-inflected and solidly persistent finish. Lovely and understated. Comments: Outstanding. Drink: 2016+. (Jan 2011)" Allen Meadows (Burghound)

 

2009 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru
Price: $217.00                    Sale $190.96
Quantity in Stock: 12

 

(90-93 Points) A similar but slightly riper nose includes blue berry and plum nuances that precede the more obviously mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract on the extremely pure and utterly delicious finish that is shaped by the buried tannins and given energy by the perfectly integrated acid spine. This is a seriously lovely effort. , Allen Meadows' Burghound (2011)

2009 Comte de Vogue Bonnes Mares
Price: $460.00                    Sale $404.80
Quantity in Stock: 3

(93-95 Points) The 2009 Bonnes Mares offers up blackberries, dark cherries and spices along with a totally sensual, inviting personality. The wine possesses gorgeous aromatic delineation and freshness, not to mention tremendous purity in its fruit. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is superb. De Vogue’s vineyards in Bonnes Mares are on the clay-rich terres rouges, which always results in a more overt, fruit-forward style of Bonnes Mares. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.

A brilliant career as a wine writer awaits long-time oenologist Francois Millet should he ever tire of making wine. Millet’s visual descriptions of vintages and wines are among the most colorful I have ever encountered. The truth is that these wines need no words at all; the quality of what is in the glass speaks for itself far more eloquently than words ever could. De Vogue’s 2009s are remarkable for their textural richness, depth and pure breed. In 2009 Millet started picking on September 9 in order to keep as much as freshness as possible. The fruit was 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 15% for the Chambolle villages to 35-40% for the Bonnes Mares and Musigny Vieilles Vignes. The malos were on the slow side and for the most part did not begin until April 2010. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Chambolle-Musigny and Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru and as they were bottled just prior to my visit. I did have a chance to taste most of the 2008s. In many ways the 2008s offer better balance than the 2009s because the vintage characteristics play off the house style of textural richness, resulting in marvelous, totally complete wines. In 2008 the harvest began on September 27, quite a bit later than in 2009. A cool growing season was saved by perfect conditions that began on September 13 and continued through to the end of the harvest.

2009 Drouhin Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Price: $15.75                       Sale $13.86
Quantity in Stock: 12

Even the entry level wines from Burgundy were very good in 2009.

2009 Louis Jadot Gevrey Chambertin
Price: $57.75                       Sale $50.82
Quantity in Stock: 12

(87-90 Points) "Jacques Lardière noted that the village of Gevrey-Chambertin has more good vineyards devoted to AC level wines than anywhere else in the Côte d’Or, and in 2009 he has had the good fortune to really find some outstanding grapes with which to work. The result is a stellar villages bottling in ’09, as the wine jumps from the glass in a classy blend of cassis, black cherries, dark chocolate, a touch of grilled meat, smoke and black minerality. On the palate the wine is deep, quite full-bodied, complex and serious, with fine mid-palate depth, ripe tannins, lovely balance and a long, classy finish. A superb village wine. 2014-2030+. 91." John Gilman a View from the Cellar 1/11 "Good deep red. Expressive aromas of dark fruits, coffee and chocolate. Sweet, very ripe and pliant, with enticing inner-mouth aromatic character. Finishes with ripe tannins and lingering sweetness. This will make a good restaurant wine but should also last well. This was my favorite of the Jadot village wines, although the Nuits-Saint-Georges should turn out well, especially if Lardiere declassifies some premier cru juice into it, as he expects to do. .." IWC 1/11

2009 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Price: $157.50                    Sale $138.60
Quantity in Stock: 6

(91-94 points) "A bright and unusually expressive nose given the way this wine usually shows offers up notes of warm earth and ripe red currants that give way to detailed, intense and moderately austere medium-weight flavors that at present display good but not truly special depth on the reasonably persistent finish. This is not showing a great deal at present and while it's not one-dimensional, it's certainly not at the same level as the best of the grands crus. Still, and while it's admittedly only my taster's intuition speaking, I feel as though this will develop much more in time than it's presently showing and my score reflects that optimism. Burghound:2024+"