A study in Musigny - The Ultimate Grand Cru Tasting

I have enjoyed great health at a great age because every day since I can remember I have consumed a bottle of wine except when I have not felt well. Then I have consumed two bottles. - Bishop of Seville

A study in Musigny - The Ultimate Grand Cru Tasting
Friday, February 3, 2012
7:00 PM

We have been exploring the greatest wines that the world has to offer over the last few decades here at the Wines Watch, that is our reason d’etre. When it comes to studying a grand cru vineyard like Musigny, there is never enough money or time to get the job done right but tonight we have a truly “once in a lifetime” opportunity to study some of the greatest producers and vintages over the last 40 years. This tasting includes some of the best vintages with the limited availability of these wines making them so hard to find that this tasting would be a bargain at 4 X the price $2200, which would not even cover the price of some of the bottles of wine in this group. We offer you the opportunity to tasting these eight legendary Musigny Grand Cru wines along with a special tasting menu prepared by Toni Lampasone from Wine Watch Catering.  The price of this event is $550 + tax. For reservations call 954-523-9463.

Tasting Line-up:

Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny 1999

Mugnier Musigny 1999

Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny 1995

Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny 1990

Louis Jadot Musigny 1990

Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares 1990

Mugnier Musigny 1988

Jacques Prieur Musigny 1978

Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny 1976

Pierre Olivier Bonnes mares 1964

Menu

Selection of Cheese:  Epoisses, Goat, and Brie

Corriander and cardamom dusted Tuna steak over pinot noir reduction with savory sweet potato chips

Duck Confit with cherry fig demi glaze over English pea, corn, and wild mushroom Succotash seasoned with Crispy Bacon

Pinot Noir poached Anjiou pears served with a duo of chocolate fondue

A bit about Musigny:

Musigny, aka Le Musigny, is considered by some collectors to be among the best of all the Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) and Grand Cru vineyard for red and white wine in Côte de Nuits of Burgundy.  Musigny is located in once of my favorite villages, Chambolle-Musigny.  These wines have a soft approach on the palate but have incredible nuance to the bouquet and finish.  To put you in perspective, to the south of the village itself, Musigny borders the Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot in the southeast, to Échezeaux in the south, and to the Premier Cru Les Amoureuses in the northeast. The name goes way back to a now extinct family from this region, de Musigny.  This family held offices in the court of the Dukes of Burgundy from the 14th century and although the the AOC was created in 1936, the area that is Musingy has been respected by growers for several hundred years.

An interesting fact about Musigny is that it is the only Grand Cru vineyard in Côte de Nuits for white wine as well as red, although the production of red wine dominates by over 90 per cent.  All the other Burgundy Grand Crus for white wine are located in Côte de Beaune.

Chambolle Musigny and all the wines from its vineyards, including of course Musigny:

2009 Alex Gambal Chambolle Musigny Magnum
Price: $130.50                    Sale $114.84
Quantity in Stock: 6

2009 Alex Gambal Chambolle Musigny
Price: $63.75                       Sale $56.10
Quantity in Stock: 22

As with the Vosne the perfume of its terroir is clear from the glass but there is an extra dimension to the mouth feel due to on barrel that was whole clusters. This added dimension makes this the most exciting and complex Chambolle we have ever made. We used 1/3 new oak and made 150 cases.

2009 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny
Price: $130.00                    Sale $114.40
Quantity in Stock: 12

(89-91 points) "(from vines in the southwest portion of the village and includes some declassified 1ers from Les Baudes and Fuées). A beautifully layered nose speaks of extract of red berry fruit, especially raspberries, before sliding gracefully into the rich, delicious and seductively textured flavors that possess a silky mouth feel and plenty of verve on the mineral-inflected and solidly persistent finish. Lovely and understated. Comments: Outstanding. Drink: 2016+. (Jan 2011)" Allen Meadows (Burghound)

2009 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru
Price: $217.00                    Sale $190.96
Quantity in Stock: 12

(90-93 Points) A similar but slightly riper nose includes blue berry and plum nuances that precede the more obviously mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract on the extremely pure and utterly delicious finish that is shaped by the buried tannins and given energy by the perfectly integrated acid spine. This is a seriously lovely effort. , Allen Meadows' Burghound (2011)

2009 Comte de Vogue Bonnes Mares
Price: $460.00                    Sale $404.80
Quantity in Stock: 3

(93-95 Points) The 2009 Bonnes Mares offers up blackberries, dark cherries and spices along with a totally sensual, inviting personality. The wine possesses gorgeous aromatic delineation and freshness, not to mention tremendous purity in its fruit. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is superb. De Vogue’s vineyards in Bonnes Mares are on the clay-rich terres rouges, which always results in a more overt, fruit-forward style of Bonnes Mares. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.

A brilliant career as a wine writer awaits long-time oenologist Francois Millet should he ever tire of making wine. Millet’s visual descriptions of vintages and wines are among the most colorful I have ever encountered. The truth is that these wines need no words at all; the quality of what is in the glass speaks for itself far more eloquently than words ever could. De Vogue’s 2009s are remarkable for their textural richness, depth and pure breed. In 2009 Millet started picking on September 9 in order to keep as much as freshness as possible. The fruit was 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 15% for the Chambolle villages to 35-40% for the Bonnes Mares and Musigny Vieilles Vignes. The malos were on the slow side and for the most part did not begin until April 2010. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Chambolle-Musigny and Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru and as they were bottled just prior to my visit. I did have a chance to taste most of the 2008s. In many ways the 2008s offer better balance than the 2009s because the vintage characteristics play off the house style of textural richness, resulting in marvelous, totally complete wines. In 2008 the harvest began on September 27, quite a bit later than in 2009. A cool growing season was saved by perfect conditions that began on September 13 and continued through to the end of the harvest.

2008 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny
Price: $115.75                    Sale $101.86
Quantity in Stock: 11

(88-91 Points) "Bright red-ruby. Musky, slightly medicinal aromas of raspberry, strawberry and minerals. Snappy, pristine flavors of red fruits, minerals, flowers and spices framed by almost peppery acidity. Not hugely ripe but boasts terrific cut and energy and finishes with sneaky length. Incidentally, the malolactic fermentations of the 2008s generally finished in August, after which the wines were racked." Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

2008 George Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru
Price: $191.00                    Sale $168.08
Quantity in Stock: 10

(90-92 Points) A more elegant but more restrained nose features equally pure and high-toned red pinot fruit, stone and a hint of spice that gives way to gorgeously detailed, precise and energetic medium-bodied flavors that possess a textured mouth feel that sweeps into a focused and sappy finish of controlled power. In sum, this is a highly intense wine of finesse. Allen Meadows' Burghound (Jan 2010)

2008 Comte de Vogue Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Price: $410.00                    Sale $361
Quantity in Stock: 6

(93-94 Points) Scents and flavors of grenadine, blueberry syrup, distilled herbal concentrates, as well as rose and peony floral notes surprisingly akin to those found in its siblings from Musigny mark the de Vogue 2008 Bonnes Mares. Saline, savory meat stock elements – which Millet considers “not really a true minerality like that of the Amoureuses” – suffuse a palate of impressive density yet textural caress, sweetness of fruit yet also sheer refreshment. Hints of resin and pepper add to the complexity of the finish. Rather than the transparency or interactive vibrancy of the Amoureuses and Musigny, we have here a more enveloping and serenely sustained personality.  Wine Advocate # 189, Jun 2010

 2007 Alex Gambal Chambolle Musigny
Price: $60.00                       Sale $52.80
Quantity in Stock: 3

(87-89 Points) A high-toned nose that is very Chambolle in character with its airy, cool, elegant and wispy red berry fruit and wet stone aromas that give way to round, stylish and detailed flavors that also reflect a subtle minerality on the balanced, persistent and delineated finish. A lovely villages that should age well over the medium-term. Tasted: Apr 01, 2009 Drink: 2013+ Burghound Issue 34

2007 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Vielles Vignes
Price: $499.50                    Sale $439.56
Quantity in Stock: 6

(95 Points) The step up in class is unmistakable with gorgeously complex, even kaleidoscopic and superbly elegant red, black and violet aromas trimmed with a dazzling array of spices, earth and a hint of smoke that adds unmistakable luster to the round, intense, muscular and exceptionally stylish broad-scaled flavors that possess excellent power and a building intensity that develops from the mid-palate to the explosive yet seductive finish. I really like the purity of expression here on the sappy and mineral-infused finish that has a dusty quality from all of the dry extract that coats the firm tannins. This is a big '07 built on a base of firm minerality but it remains impeccably well balanced and should live for decades so patience is definitely a virtue if you are a potential buyer. Tasted: Jan 30, 2010 Drink: 2027+ Burghound Issue 37

2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Vielles Vignes
Price: $475.00                    Sale $418
Quantity in Stock: 1

(96 Points) This is also extremely floral with a reserved nose that is an airy, spicy and ripe mélange of red and blue pinot fruit that displays really lovely violet and rose petal notes that are picked up by the minerally, intense and harmonious flavors that are beautifully proportioned and are blessed with ample amounts of dry extract on the essence of pinot and explosive, energetic and hugely long yet incredible precise finish that is also built on a base of firm minerality. This is almost exotic in character yet everything is in beautiful concordance. In a word, great. Tasted: Jan 01, 2009 Drink: 2021+ Burghound

2005 Domaine Alain Burguet Chambolle Musigny Les Chardannes
Price: $84.00                       Sale $73.92
Quantity in Stock: 12

(Score 90-92) Tasting note: This is wonderfully airy with almost wispy aromas of red and violet fruit aromas liberally laced with warm earth and underbrush that can also be found on the rich, full and sweet flavors that retain a fine sense of detail and precision on the sappy and mouth coating finish that goes on and on. Burguet has managed to preserve the elegance of Chambolle while combining it with the taut, even sleek muscle of Gevrey. As promising as the Mes Favorites if a bit more forward. -Burghound

2005 Faiveley Chambolle Musigny
Price: $85.50                       Sale $75.24
Quantity in Stock: 5

1999 Frederic Magnien Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru
Price: $359.00                    Sale $315.92
Quantity in Stock: 1

(94 Points) The medium to full-bodied, dark ruby-colored 1999 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses is exceptional. It reveals a nose reminiscent of cookie dough immersed in blackberry syrup. On the palate, broad layers of velvety blackberries, cassis liqueur, and black cherries coat the taster's mouth. It is rich, thick, and a hedonist's dream. There are no edges in this prodigiously ripened wine's character. It is feminine, harmonious, and the vinous equivalent of liquid satin. Drink it over the next 9 years. Wine Advocate #136, Aug 2001

1998 Domaine Jacques Prieur Musigny Grand Cru
Price: $395.00                    Sale $347.60
Quantity in Stock: 1

1993 Domaine Leroy Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes
Price: $595.00                    Sale $523.60
Quantity in Stock: 1

(94 Points) Among Leroy's premier crus is the Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes, with its amazing layers of ripe red and black fruits. It combines the judicious use of new oak with floral and berry scents. The wine is full-bodied, undeniably pure, and spectacularly rich and intense. When I traveled through Burgundy, it appeared Lalou Bize-Leroy may have as many critics as I do. Some producers accuse her of adding "Alicante" to her wines because she obtains such a deep color. Others claim she is hiding hundreds of cases of grand crus in another cellar since her yields cannot "possibly be so low." Of course all of this is nonsense, not to mention appallingly jealous behavior from producers who are scared to death that other growers might decide to follow in Lalou's footsteps. For now, Bize-Leroy stands at the top of the Burgundy pyramid, alone both literally and figuratively in her pursuit of the finest Burgundy can produce. I will keep my tasting notes brief, recognizing that in this situation it is almost criminal to try and describe wines that may be the greatest red Burgundies I will taste in my life. As even the immodest Lalou Bize-Leroy says, these wines are "an accident of nature." Tasting them, with their extraordinary ripeness, unctuosity, and opulence, with no hard tannin to be found, makes one think that 1993 was a completely different vintage for Domaine Leroy than it was for other Burgundians. Yes, Mama, low yields do translate into physiologically ripe fruit, concentrated wines, and exquisite quality. It goes without saying that everything in this cellar was aged in 100% new French oak (you cannot detect any oak in the wines because of their concentration), and bottled without fining or filtration - as usual.
No, Cindy Crawford wasn't sitting on my lap as I was tasting through Leroy's 1993s, nor was I under the influence of either the effusive and persuasive Lalou Bize-Leroy or any chemical substance. My notes are mostly of academic interest since the quantities of wine produced at Domaine Leroy in 1993 are so preposterously low that only cases of certain wines are available. Bize-Leroy's biodynamic farming methods, which do not permit any type of spraying, resulted in yields ranging from as low as 5-6 hectoliters per hectare (about 1/3 ton per acre) to a whopping 1/2 ton per acre. Not one of her vineyards produced as much as one ton of fruit per acre (30 hectoliters per hectare). The microscopic quantities produced of some wines have not only ensured prices that only billionaires can afford, but have also made it virtually impossible to find the wines. For example, consider the total production - for the world - of the following wines: Chambertin (75 cases), Musigny (75 cases), Latricieres (25 cases), Clos de la Roche (50 cases), Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes (50 cases), Richebourg (100 cases), Romanee St.-Vivant (75 cases). Wine Advocate # 100
Aug 1995

1990 Domaine Leroy Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Fremieres
Price: $475.00                    Sale $418
Quantity in Stock: 2

(94 Points) Has everything in unbelievable amounts: concentration, fruit, color, tannins and suppleness. Stands out with its rich character of grilled, toasted oak, violet, raspberry and chocolate aromas and flavors. Will need years before the new oak and fruit flavors melt together harmoniously. Drinkable in 1999 or 2000. 143 cases made. – Wine Spectator Issue: Dec 15, 1992