Brunello versus Barolo Tasting at Wine Watch with Renato Spanu

Wine is at the head of all medicines; where wine is lacking, drugs are necessary.
~Talmud

Neil Empson has been bringing us Italy's top wines for the last 40 years. Empson started his import business in 1972 and is considered to be among the most knowledgeable man in his field today. Our rep for Neil in South Florida also has his own winery in Sardinia, Renato Spanu will be here to give us a first hand review of the 2012 vintage and to show us some of the best wines from this portfolio from Tuscany and the Piedmont.

Wine Watch Caterings Toni Lampasone will be making a few small courses to accompany the tasting wines. The fee for this event is $55 + tax, for reservations call 954-523-9463.

 

2007 Brunello di Montalcino versus 2008 Barolo Tasting at Wine Watch with Renato Spanu
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
7:00 PM

 

Reception:

2010 Jankara Vermentino di Gallura
List Price: $22.50               Sale $19.80          Case $230

The Vein of San Leonardo, one of the best sites on the island for the Vermentino varietal. very pretty bouquet of soda and lemon citrus, orange blossom and Asian pear. Fresh and lively on the tongue with a light spritz and an almost tonic like note, a light green note also on finish. Finish 35+ Very Good

 

Everyday Tuscan VS Everyday Piedmont 2010 Vintage

Costanti Rosso di Montalcino 2010
Price: $38.75       Sale $34.10          Case $396

Winery Notes: Andrea makes no distinction in the vineyard between grapes used for Rosso and those used for Brunello di Montalcino. Because of the ageing requirements for Brunello, it is released after the fifth year following the harvest, the production of Rosso di Montalcino is a simple case of economics for some producers. This DOC allows the producer to have a wine on the market much earlier than their Brunello. While most producers Rosso di Montalicno are really "second wines", here you get a wine treated the same as the Brunello, with all the attributes of the Matrichese cru. Andrea’s Rosso is aged for one year in tonneaux and has an abundance of red berry fruit, rich and ripe with well integrated oak spice and round ripe tannins.

Fuligni Rosso di Montalcino 2010
Price: $38.75       Sale $34.10          Case $396

(89 Points) The 2010 Rosso di Montalcino Ginestreto is a delicate, mid-weight wine graced with exquisite finesse and class. Subtle layers of dark red cherries, crushed flowers, licorice and mint are beautifully woven together in this expressive Rosso. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

Lisini Rosso di Montalcino 2010
Price: $35.25       Sale $31.02          Case $360

Winery Notes: This isn’t a declassified Brunello di Montalcino. Rather, it is a wine made from designated Rosso di Montalcino vineyards. Compared to the riper and fruitier San Biagio, Lisini’s Rosso is more classic Rosso di Montalcino. It has a stylish, subtle and forward nose that is charming and a classic core of red cherry fruit with light rose petal notes and black tar like minerality, smooth tannins and fresh acidity, light but very balanced and classic Rosso.

Ca Rome Barbera "Gamberaja" 2010
Price: $32.25       Sale $28.38          Case $329

Winery Notes: From 2.5 acres of very calcareous marls, light in color, within the township of Serralunga d'Alba, at 885-1,050 feet. This single-vineyard Barbera sojourns in oak (partly 25-hl. barrels, partly barrique) for approximately 1 year, resulting in a deep ruby wine of ample, persistent bouquet, superb structure and balance. Purple red in color with dark ruby reflections. The bouquet is ample, complex and elegant, with hints of blackberries and spice. Full, lingering finish.

Conterno-Fantino Barbera D'Alba "Vignota" 2010
Price: $34.50       Sale $30.36          Case $352

(91 Points) Bright ruby-red. Black cherry, licorice and violet on the nose. Brisk, vibrant and penetrating, with lovely intensity and purity to the crushed dark fruit and violet flavors. The wine's lively acids and supple tannins leave the mouth feeling refreshed.-International Wine Cellar

Marcarini Barbera D'Alba "Ciabot" 2010
Price: $18.75       Sale $16.50          Case $191

Winery Notes: We’ve devoted several of our sunniest vineyards to the cultivation of the Barbera grape, an ancient native variety of southwest Piedmont.Ciabot Camerano In this privileged position, this rustic, humble and vigorous vine offers forth its best fruits. The grapes, picked fully ripe, are fermented according to traditional methods. After aging eight months in small French and Danubian oak barrels, the wine is passed into the bottle where it continues its evolution. Thanks to its extraordinary characteristics and structure, this wine has an excellent longevity. Its intense garnet color, clarity, and warm ruby-red reflections are indications of its exceptional richness and powerful structure. The full bouquet is characteristic, complex and very persistent, the palate austere and warm, its considerable full body accentuated; the wine’s superb balance and harmony are further exalted by sweet tannins.

 

Collectible Tuscany VS Collectible Piedmont

Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 2007
Price: $75.00       Sale $66.00          Case $765

(95 Points) The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of grace and elegance. This isn’t a huge, powerful wine like the 2006, but rather a Brunello that impresses for its total finesse. Sweet floral notes lead to hints of tobacco, wild herbs and spices on the refined finish. Layers of fruit flesh out beautifully in a radiant, expressive wine that captures the essence of the vintage. Costanti gave the 2007 Brunello 36 months in oak, 18 months in medium-sized barrels followed by 18 months in cask. This is a fabulous showing from Andrea Costanti. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.

These are two beautiful Brunelli from Andrea Costanti, one of the few producers who has had the skill to give his wines a little extra polish without abandoning what is essentially a traditional style. (If you are from Rome you would not use the term Brunelli, the plural in Roman dialect is just Brunello) Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2007
Price: $84.75       Sale $74.58          Case $865

(95 Points) The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is a gorgeous wine that brings together the richness of the vintage and the house’s continuing move to a more traditional style. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint, spices and anise are woven together beautifully in this large-scaled, generous wine. The wine gains volume and depth in the glass as the flavors built to a huge crescendo. The 2007 was aged exclusively in cask. This is a great showing from Fuligni. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2007
Price: $82.50       Sale $72.60          Case $842

(94 Points) The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is very beautiful in this vintage. Sweet dark cherries, flowers, mint and licorice take shape as the wine opens up in the glass. This is an especially voluminous wine endowed with tons of richness and nuance. A finessed, seamless finish laced with sweet hints of tobacco and wild flowers rounds things out in style. This is a terrific showing. Lisini gave the Brunello three years in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.

I was struck with the wines I tasted from Lisini this year. All three Brunelli merit serious attention. (If you are from Rome you would not use the term Brunelli, the plural in Roman dialect is just Brunello) Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

Ca Rome Barolo "Ceretta" 2008
Price: $87.00       Sale $76.56          Case $888

(92+ Points) The 2008 Barolo Vigna Cerretta emerges from the glass with freshly cut flowers, spices, plums and dark cherries. The Cerretta is quite a bit fresher and more vibrant than the Rapet in this vintage. There is gorgeous detail and clarity in the glass in this mid-weight, gracious Barolo. Layers of fruit build to the round, deep finish. This is a terrific showing for the Cerretta. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

Marcarini Barolo "Brunate" 2008
Price: $58.50       Sale $51.48          Case $597

(94+ Points) The 2008 Barolo Brunate is gorgeous. An open, beguiling bouquet redolent of Christmas cake, plums, menthol and licorice melds into an expressive core of dark fruit. The mystery and allure of Brunate is on full display. The 2008 was quite open just after bottling, but it has begun to shut down since then. Both times I have tasted it, the wine has been translucent, weightless and yet powerful at the same time; in other words, the embodiment of what makes Barolo such a fascinating and complex wine. Simply put, this is textbook Barolo from one of La Morra’s top vineyards. The 2008 Brunate is steeped in class, but readers will have to be patient. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028.

Proprietor Manuel Marchetti brought in his fruit in mid-October. The Baroli were fermented in cement and steel, and were then aged in oak casks for two years. (If you are from Rome you would not use the term Baroli, the plural in Roman dialect is just Barolo) Marcarini remains one of the best values in traditionally made, cellar-worthy Barolo. Both of these wines are fabulous. Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

Conterno-Fantino Barolo "Sori Ginestra" 2008
Price: $106.50    Sale $93.72          Case $1086

(95 Points) The 2008 Barolo Sori Ginestra is the most complete of these 2008s. An exotic melange of plums, black cherries, menthol, spices and licorice takes shape in the glass. The 2008 Ginestra impresses for its textural depth, richness and aromatic nuance. Layers of fruit build towards the sweeping finish in this multi-dimensional, textured Barolo. Ginestra is one of the great sites in Barolo. The 2008 captures all of the magic. This is the most refined, polished young Sori Ginestra I have ever tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028.

Conterno-Fantino is one of a handful of properties that deliver outstanding quality throughout their entire range. The 2008 Nebbioli were picked very late. The last of the Ginestra fruit did not come in until October 26. Fabio Conterno describes 2008 as a vintage marked with huge diurnal shifts towards the end of a very long growing season. Conterno-Fantino remains a leading exponent of the modern school of Barolo, but today macerations are longer than normal, casks have been added to the French oak barriques and the wines are more polished than they have ever been. The Conterno-Fantino Baroli used to be tannic beasts when young, but the 2008 Baroli are surprisingly accessible at this stage. I imagine the wines will close down at least somewhat over the coming months, but even if they do, these Baroli stand out for their finesse. Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

Menu

Selection of Cheese:  Reggiano Parmesan, Beemster Gouda and St. Andre

Risotto with Porcini Mushroom and Reggiano Parmesan

Barolo and Brunello Braised Shortrib with blistered Brussel sprouts