Killer Vintage Aussie Tasting at Wine Watch

At sea a fellow comes out. Salt water is like wine, in that respect.
Herman Melville

There are many Australian wine critics that do not believe that their wines will stand up over time like the French and even California wines and tonight we will be here to attest to the phenomenon of older Australian wines.  

There are theories that argue due to the age of the Australian land mass, it is the oldest piece of dirt on the planet, and therefore the soils are naturally lower in acidity.  Europe is actually one of the youngest of the Earth’s land masses thus the soils are naturally higher in acidity, therefore their wines should last the longest if this theory holds true.  I wish it would be explained by such a simple phenomenon but there are many other factors that lead to how wines age and we are ready to put these older Aussie wines to the real test – The Wine Watch taste test. 

Every wine on the table is considered to be among the best from the prospective vintages that they represent and many of these wines are under 1000 cases in production so they can be very hard to find when released- not to mention ten years after their release.

Join us as we experience eight 10+ year old Aussie wines and Wine Watch Catering’s Toni Lampasone will be providing a few treats to accompany the tasting wines. This is a sit down tasting and is limited to 15 tasters, the fee for this event is $95 + tax for reservations call 954-523-9463.

Killer Vintage Aussie Tasting at Wine Watch
Friday, August 26, 2011
7:00 PM

Tasting Line-up:

1996 Penfolds Grange South Australia
Price 350

The 1996 Grange is a blend of 94% Shiraz and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon from Barossa, McLaren Vale, Magill and Padthaway fruit.  This is one of the classic vintages of the 1990's along with 1990, 1991 and 1998.

(95 points)  Firm in texture, with slightly gritty tannins around a gorgeous beam of black cherry, blueberry and plum flavors. This is beautifully focused and complete on the nose, but it's a bit chewy on the palate. Built for aging. Needs some rich food to balance the tannins at this point. Gets better as it warms in the glass.--Australian reds blind retrospective. 10,228 cases made. –HS  Wine Spectator Issue: Web Only - 2008

1996 Fox Creek Reserve Shiraz McLaren Vale
Price: $85

(93 Points)  Displaying the most roasted herb, tar, meat, and concentrated blood-like essence of Syrah is the 1996 Shiraz Reserve. Notes of blackberries, creosote, earth, and pepper are found in this dense, inky/purple-hued effort along with loads of body, sweet tannin, and a massive style. It should last for another two decades.

All of these wines were made by one of the wine bloggers’ favorite whipping boys, Sarah and Sparky Marquis, who have since moved on to their own projects. I rated these Australian reds highly when they were first released, and lo and behold, they are still spectacular wines that are aging beautifully. They admirably demonstrate that the Marquis team knows a great deal about what they are doing.  Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009

1997 Fox Creek Shiraz Reserve McLaren Vale
Price: $85

(92 Points)  The fully mature 1997 Shiraz Reserve was in total contrast to the monster 1996. Dark garnet/purple-colored with a sensational bouquet of crushed red and black fruits, charcoal, licorice, incense, and floral undertones, it is full-bodied with sweet, well-integrated tannin, acidity, and alcohol, and no evidence of wood. Owners can drink it now or hold it for another 5-6 years.

All of these wines were made by one of the wine bloggers’ favorite whipping boys, Sarah and Sparky Marquis, who have since moved on to their own projects. I rated these Australian reds highly when they were first released, and lo and behold, they are still spectacular wines that are aging beautifully. They admirably demonstrate that the Marquis team knows a great deal about what they are doing.  Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009

1997 Clarendon Hills Astralis McLaren Vale
Price: $175          Sale $154

(93 Points)  The 1997 Astralis Syrah is the most elegant of this quartet. It reveals a similar meaty, bacon fat, blackberry, and black currant-scented nose with hints of earth and pepper in the background. Not as dense as either the 1996 or 1998, it is a more feminine, stylish effort offering a rich, layered texture as well as sweet tannins. It is 1-3 years away from full maturity, and probably will not last as long as the more blockbuster-styled efforts of 1996 and 1998.  Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009

1998 Noon Eclipse McLaren Vale
Price: $115          Sale: $95

(96 Points)  The 1998 Eclipse (from 35 to 65-year old Shiraz vines cropped at two tons per acre) possesses a whopping 15.7% alcohol, which is totally concealed by the dense, blackberry liqueur-scented and flavored fruit. Notes of cassis, toast, pepper, and licorice can also be found in this thick, full-bodied effort. It is a phenomenally rich, super-extracted wine of astonishing intensity. The tannin is sweet, the acidity low, and the wine unreal. Drink it over the next 10-15+ years.  This is a tour de force winemaking effort, and it performed better from the bottle opened forty-eight hours prior to the tasting. This is an exceptional wine from an Australian genius!  Wine Advocate # 127, Feb 2000

1998 Kay Brothers Shiraz Block 6 McLaren Vale
Price: $135.00                    Sale $119

(98 Points) I have to wonder if this wine would not be even more extraordinary and close to perfection if it were aged in French oak. American oak is still the big deal in Australia, despite the exceptional success the more subtle French oak has had nearby at Clarendon Hills. The 1998 shows the aggressive toasty oak in the nose, but there is no doubt that is going to be completely absorbed in another 3-5 years of cellaring, given the wine's mammoth concentration and extravagant richness. The wine has a black/purple color and an extraordinarily sweet nose of black fruits intermixed with spice box, licorice, and a touch of pepper. A monster wine on the palate, and still uncivilized and too young to actually enjoy drinking, this wine should be at its peak by 2006 and keep for up to 2020 or so. A great vintage for Block 6 Shiraz. eRobertParker.com # E2002, Feb 2002

1999 Torbreck Runrig Barossa
Price: $185          Sale $162

(97 Points)  There are 800 cases of the 1999 Run Rig, an unfined/unfiltered beauty of remarkable concentration and intensity. This Shiraz cuvee spends 30 months in 100% new French oak, and approximately 3% Viognier is added to the blend just prior to bottling (in contrast to The Descendent, in which 8% Viognier is co-fermented with the Shiraz). The Run Rig is a structured, muscular effort with phenomenal density, dry vintage Port-like concentration, and magnificent notes of smoke, blackberries, cassis, leather, and coffee. A hint of Viognier's sweet marmalade character comes through as the wine sits in the glass. This majestic Shiraz, one of the greatest wines made in the New World, should be cellared for 5-6 years, and drunk over the following 2-3 decades.  Wine Advocate # 143, Oct 2002

1999 Rusden Black Guts Shiraz Barossa
Regular Price $125           Sale $110

(94 Points) A classic, blockbuster Barossa Valley Shiraz, the 1999 Black Guts was aged 30 months in a combination of new and old French wood. Its opaque purple color is followed by an explosive bouquet of melted licorice, camphor, creme de cassis, and blackberry liqueur. There is tremendous glycerin, a voluptuous, full-bodied mid-section, and a mouth-coating finish. This is big stuff, so those with European wine sensitivities should stay clear. Drink it over the next 10-15 years.  Wine Advocate # 143, Oct 2002

Menu

Selection of Cheese:  At. Andre, Reggiano Parmesian, Strong Cheddar

Deconstructed Duck Confit Napoleon with jicama slaw, avocado drizzled with a Shiraz Cherry reduction

Short Rib shepherd's pie with sautéed Celeriac, carrots, onions, and celery, served with whipped potatoes

 

Vintage Aussie Offering:

Check out all the vintage Aussies we have in the store for a limited time we will offer anything in the Australian Shiraz section at 15% off the list price.  I have included a small selection of the older vintage wines that we have in stock here below, but anything in the store from Australia in celebration of this offering is 15% off till next Friday’s tasting is over.

2001 D'Arenberg Shiraz Dead Arm McLaren Vale
Price: $105.00                    Sale $89.25
Quantity in Stock: 9

(98 Points) Readers should be on the look out for the 2001 The Dead Arm Shiraz, one of the greatest examples of this cuvee. Its dense black/purple color is accompanied by celestial aromas of melted licorice, graphite, blackberries, cassis, incense, anise, and toasty oak. Fabulously concentrated, with great purity, an unctuous, viscous texture, and an amazingly long, 60-second plus finish, this fabulous baby will need 5-6 years of cellaring, and should drink well over the following 20-25 years.

Chester Osborn, the remarkable person behind this enormous array of both impeccably high quality and value-priced wines, deserves considerable accolades for what he is able to achieve at all price ranges. If you love Australian wines, d’Arenberg is a winery to seek out as these offerings all possess abundant soul as well as character. In short, the accolades that proprietor/winemaker Chester Osborn receives not only from The Wine Advocate, but virtually everybody in the wine world, are all well deserved. Wine Advocate # 148, Aug 2003

2002 D'Arenberg Shiraz Dead Arm McLaren Vale
Price: $65.00                       Sale $55.25
Quantity in Stock: 7

(93 Points) After re-tasting the 2002 The Dead Arm Shiraz, I believe my initial rating is correct. It still plays it close to the vest, exhibiting loads of cassis, asphalt, smoke, and barbecue spice-like aromas along with full-bodied flavors. While well-made and impressive, it remains backward and restrained, and does not appear to be up to the quality of either the 2003 or the great 2001. Wine Advocate # 161, Oct 2005

2002 Barossa Class Shiraz
Price: $50.00                       Sale $42.50
Quantity in Stock: 9

A special winemaking project by Nurrihannam high school.  These wines are suprisingly good especially when you consider that the people making them are not even old enough to drink.
               

2002 Bowen Estate Shiraz Coonawarra
Price: $31.25                       Sale $27.50
Quantity in Stock: 19

Bowen Estate's Shiraz is hand pruned and trellised with the 'hanging cane' method. This allows the grapes to utilize the sunshine to obtain optimum ripeness and flavour. The grapes are machine harvested, crushed and fermented on skins for 5 days. Approximately one third of the wine is barrel fermented in new wood each year. After racking, the balance of the wine is put into American oak barriques (225 litres) for maturation for about 20 months. The wine is then removed from the barrels, blended and bottled.  A lovely bright opulent wine with seductive sweet fruit, showing ripe spicy Shiraz flavours with a matching background of supple oak characters. The palate is medium bodied, well-rounded, finishing with soft tannins. This wine is made in the classic Coonawarra Shiraz style.
               

2001 Fox Creek Reserve Shiraz Mclaren Vale
Price: $105.00                    Sale $89.25
Quantity in Stock: 4

This wine was made by the tag team of Sarah and Sparky Marquee and if you like that full blown over the top style of Shiraz, this is it and should be drinking at its peak now. 

2000 Greenock Creek Shiraz Alice's Barossa
Price: $60.00                       Sale $51
Quantity in Stock: 5

(90 Points) Fashioned from low yields of 1.27 tons of fruit per acre, the 2000 Shiraz Alice’s is 100% Shiraz aged in American oak for 28 months prior to being bottled unfiltered. A strong effort for the vintage, it exhibits a deep ruby/purple color in addition to a sweet nose of blackberries, pepper, and licorice, medium body, and a fine finish. Enjoy it during its first 7-8 years of life. Wine Advocate # 148, Aug 2003

2003 Hazyblur Shiraz Baroota South Australia
Price: $33.75                       Sale $28.69
Quantity in Stock: 8

(91 Points) The exceptional 2003 Shiraz Baroota raises the bar a notch, revealing more nuances, greater complexity, and abundant quantities of cassis, blackberries, licorice, and smoke. It is best consumed over the next 5-8 years, Wine Advocate # 161 Oct 2005

2002 Hobbs Shiraz Barossa
Price: $97.50                       Sale $82.87
Quantity in Stock: 5

(92 Points) Produced from 100-year-old vines cropped at 3.75 tons of fruit per acre, the 2002 Shiraz possesses a modest (by Barossa standards) 13.3% alcohol. This full-bodied, layered, massive Shiraz boasts huge concentration as well as an inky/graphite-like character interwoven with smoky blackberry and cassis fruit. Still backward and primary, this rich 2002 requires another 1-2 years of bottle age. It should drink well for 15 years. Wine Advocate # 161, Oct 2005

1999 Jasper Hill Shiraz Heathcoat Australia
Price: $69.25                       Sale $58.86
Quantity in Stock: 7

This wine was the crowd favorite at one of our recent vintage Aussie tastings, one of the landmark producers of the Heathcoat.  This wine is a good case for why you can’t trust the scores, it only scored 89 points- but trust me this wine is stunning!

2003 Kaesler Shiraz The Bogan Barossa
Price: $75.00                       Sale $62.75
Quantity in Stock: 11

(95 Points) The 2003 Shiraz The Bogan is an exuberant, flamboyantly-styled Shiraz boasting an opaque ruby/purple color, wonderful peppery, blackberry, and currant fruit, and hints of charcoal as well as spice box. This full, opulent offering was fashioned from a vineyard planted in 1899, 1961, 1985, and 1990. Wine Advocate # 161, Oct 2005

2001 Majella Shiraz Coonawarra
Price: $21.25                       Sale $18.06
Quantity in Stock: 6

One of the best producers from Coonawarra and they make the best sparkling Shiraz that I have tasted from Australia.  A more classic and refined style very balanced and fresh on the finish.

2002 Marquis Philips Integrity McLaren Vale
Price: $225.00                    Sale $191.25
Quantity in Stock: 3

(99 Points) The virtually perfect, limited production (1,000 cases) cuvee of 2002 Shiraz Integrity is a 100% Shiraz fashioned from four specific vineyard blocks (surprisingly young vines of 4-6 years in age). It boasts terrific minerality, structure, definition, and prodigious levels of concentration as well as perfume. An inky/black color is followed by aromas of melted road tar, licorice, Asian spices, sweet creme de cassis as well as blackberries, and a hint of acacia flowers. There is compelling density, great purity, and tremendous viscosity, yet it is not over the top. There is real definition/delineation to this large-scaled Shiraz. It was aged in 100% new American oak for 13 months. A tour de force in winemaking, it stood out as one of the most singular and greatest wines I tasted for this report. Anticipated maturity: now-2012.

Two of South Australia’s leading viticulturists/winemakers are undoubtedly husband and wife Sarah and Sparky Marquis. Their goals are common sense ones of “creating fruit weight, velvety sensations, and harvesting on ripeness, not sugar readings.” Perhaps their finest accomplishment has been to prove that high quality wines can be produced at a price point that thrills most wine consumers.

P.S. Perhaps another way to think of these wines is that they are XXX-rated stuff. They’re not exactly wines for those wanting finesse, lightness, restraint, or intellectual challenge. These are totally decadent homages to joy and yumminess. Or, as a friend of mine said, they are “fragrantly delicious.” Wine Advocate # 148, Aug 2003

2000 Munari Shiraz Central Victoria
Price: $36.00                       Sale $30.60
Quantity in Stock: 23

2001 Munari Shiraz Central Victoria
Price: $45.00                       Sale $38.25
Quantity in Stock: 14

This vintage will measure up to some of the greatest ever for southeast Australia. Mint chocolate chip cookie highlights surround the sweet black cherry/blackberry fruit in this little treasure. Thick, velvety texture on the tongue, a hedonistic wine gorgeous forward fruit, ripe but not over the top. Finish 45+ EXCELLENT +

1997 Penfolds Shiraz Magill Estate South Australia
Price: $56.25                       Sale $47.81
Quantity in Stock: 7

This is the only single vineyard wine that Penfolds bottles every year and the original vineyard site at the winery in Adelaide.  The 1997 is very soft and elegant with a nice savory finish and still nice fruit holding up nicely.

1999 Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz South Australia
Price: $70.00                       Sale $59.50
Quantity in Stock: 6

(90 points) The 1999 Shiraz Magill Estate reveals complex aromatics of subtle oak, new saddle leather, blackberry jam, and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, with a measured, elegant, restrained personality, it tastes like a cool climate Shiraz with a European-like delicacy and elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2015. Wine Advocate # 143 Oct 2002

2002 Penfolds Shiraz RWT
Price: $82.50                       Sale $70.12
Quantity in Stock: 12

(93 Points) The outstanding 2002 Shiraz RWT is a 100% Shiraz, single region (Barossa) offering that typically spends 14 months in a combination of two-thirds new and one-third old French oak. Expansive and rich with a broad texture, and a complex nose of white chocolate, raspberries, black cherries, and licorice, this spicy, rich, medium-bodied, elegant 2002 should drink well for 10-12 years. Wine Advocate # 161, October 2005

2004 Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz MAGNUM
Price: $49                             Sale $41.65
Quantity in Stock: 24

(90 points) Penfolds’ Shiraz lineup is impressive. Leading off is the 2004 Shiraz “Kalimna Bin 28”. Purple colored, it has an attractive nose of smoke, grilled meat, and blueberry. Medium to full-bodied, it is a straightforward Shiraz with loads of flavor, good balance, and a moderately long finish. It is a very good value. Wine Advocate # 173 Oct 2007

1996 Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz Kalimna
Price: $40.00                       Sale $34
Quantity in Stock: 60

(90 points) A beguiling combination of rich, almost decadent flavors on an upright frame that has a nicely buried backbone of acidity and tannin. Nothing is obtrusive, everything is in graceful balance, leaving an ultimate impression of both muscle and flesh. Best after 2002. 6,600 cases imported. –HS Issue: Jan 31, 2000

1998 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz South Australia
Price: $100.00                    Sale $85
Quantity in Stock: 4

(92 points) Firm in texture, with youthful fruit and a slight touch of earth. Focused and elegant. Persists beautifully on the long, elegant finish.--St. Henri non-blind vertical. 20,000 cases made. –HS Issue: Web Only - 2008

2001 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz South Australia
Price: $70.00                       Sale $59.50
Quantity in Stock: 6

Powerful nose of black cherry black raspberry light smoke, grilled meats highlighted by aromas of melted black licorice, a big and seductive nose. Big and chewy wine with a good amount of black cherry and black raspberry fruit, medium bodied with notes of black spice through the finish. Finish 45+ EXCELLENT +

2001 Penfolds RWT Shiraz Barossa
Price: $75.00                       Sale $63.75
Quantity in Stock: 4

(94 points) Ripe and open-textured, rife with cherry, currant and blueberry jam flavors, subtlety shaded with spicy, slightly smoky overtones that linger along with the fruit on a very persistent finish. A hint of melted wax that is intriguing as well. Best from 2005 through 2015. 8,000 cases made. –HS Issue: Sep 30, 2004

2003 Possums Shiraz McLaren Vale
Price: $33.75                       Sale $28.68
Quantity in Stock: 16

This vineyard draws its name from its owners John Possingham and Carol Summers who have been growing grapes in the McLaren Vale region of Southern Australia for more than 20 years.  Beginning with the 2000 vintage, Possingham decided to select out his oldest parcel of Shiraz from his Blewitt Springs vineyard to make wine under his own label. 

2003 Samuels Gorge Shiraz McLaren Vale
Price: $52.25                       Sale $44.41
Quantity in Stock: 7

Samuel's Gorge in McLaren Vale south of Adelaide in South Australia is owned by former Tatachilla winemaker Justin McNamee. The boutique winery is located on Seaview Ridge, where he raises grapes for his 100% Tempranillo. Grapes for the Samuel's Gorge Grenache come from low-yielding 100-year-old bush vines that grow in white sands at Blewitt Springs. He also makes an old-vine Shiraz.

2001 Shiralee Shiraz Old basket Barossa
Price: $45.00                       Sale $39.60
Quantity in Stock: 12

(91 Points)  From a 40-year old vineyard, Shiralee's 2001 Shiraz was aged in both new and old American oak. This classic Barossa Shiraz emphasizes American oak, high levels of glycerin, gorgeous quantities of sweet blackberry and earthy black cherry/currant fruit, an unctuous texture, numerous layers, and abundant succulence. This is an uncomplicated, fat, fleshy, tasty Shiraz to enjoy over the next decade.

2003 Shirvington Shiraz McLaren Vale
Price: $75.00                       Sale $63.75
Quantity in Stock: 4

(96 Points) The big, concentrated yet velvety-textured, magnificent 2003 Shiraz reveals a seamless integration of tannin, acidity, wood, and alcohol, it boasts aromas of blackberry liqueur intermixed with violets. The fragrant aromatics are followed by an explosively rich, full-bodied, unctuously-textured, compelling Shiraz. Interestingly, this 2003 does not appear to be quite as powerful or concentrated as the 2002s or 2001s, but that’s like splitting hairs. The evolution of this 2003 will be fascinating to follow. Wine Advocate # 155, Oct 2004

2003 Tuesner Shiraz Albert
Price: $62.00                       Sale $52.70
Quantity in Stock: 10

(93 Points)  The 2003 Albert, a 100% Shiraz cuvee produced from 45- to 89-year-old vines, is brought up in 100% French barrels. A dense purple color is followed by a sumptuous perfume of blackberries, smoke, and cassis, medium to full-bodied, opulent flavors, low acidity, ripe tannin, and a long, luscious finish. It should drink well for 7-8 years.  Wine Advocate # 155, Oct 2004

2000 Three Hill Shiraz Margaret River
Price: $45.00                       Sale $38.25
Quantity in Stock: 10

The Happ family is a producer of table wines under two labels 'Happs' and 'Three Hills'. they are proudly Western Australians since 1890 and Australians since 1850. Inspired by the 60's promise of great potential in the Margaret River wine, they have steadfastly pursued that objective since 1978.

They sport the largest range of wines and styles found in the region. Their wines (including the Preservative Free) are a peerless illustration of the value of diligence informed by science in the process of fine wine making.

2002 Torbreck Descendant
Price: $92.50                       Sale $78.63
Quantity in Stock: 10

(96 Points) There are 1,000 cases of the 2002 Descendant, a blend of 92% Shiraz and 8% Viognier that spent 18 months in 2-year-old French oak. The fruit is sourced from the section of the Barossa Valley known as Marananga. The Viognier and Shiraz are co-fermented together, and the name, Descendant, comes the fact that it is essentially the same blend as the famed Run Rig, but sees no new oak. A magnificent effort, the dense ruby/purple-colored 2002 Descendant offers gorgeous aromas of crushed blackberries, raspberries, licorice, acacia flowers, and the added notes of honeysuckle and apricots from the Viognier. Full-bodied and opulently textured, with good tannin, structure, purity, and a broad, expansive finish that lasts nearly a minute, it needs 1-2 years of cellaring, and should keep for 12-15+. Wine Advocate # 155 Oct 2004

1997 Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz
Price: $325.00                    Sale $278.80
Quantity in Stock: 5

(95 Points) The 1997 Run Rig is the most mature of this group. More evolved than the 1996 or the potentially perfect 1998, the 1997 displays beautiful floral, blackberry, charcoal, and incense characteristics, a full-bodied opulence, a seamless, voluptuous mouthfeel, and hints of caramelized black fruits and herbs. It is a beauty of complexity, elegance, and substance. Drink it over the next 5-10 years.

Torbreck’s flagship wine, the Run Rig, is made from 40- to 120-year-old Shiraz vines with some co-fermented Viognier (usually around 3%), tips the scales between 14-15% alcohol, and is aged 30 months in French oak. In contrast to the way they taste upon release, neither the 1998 or 1997 Run Rig revealed any oak. Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009

1998 Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz Barossa
Price: $325.00                    Sale $276.25
Quantity in Stock: 5

(99 Points) The 1998 Run Rig is a phenomenal wine. An inky/blue/purple color is followed by an incredibly intoxicating, endearing bouquet of peaches, honeysuckle, blackberries, and spring flowers, full-bodied, concentrated flavors that show slightly more depth and length than the 1997, and more velvety tannins than the 1996. This prodigious offering should continue to evolve for another decade or more.

Torbreck’s flagship wine, the Run Rig, is made from 40- to 120-year-old Shiraz vines with some co-fermented Viognier (usually around 3%), tips the scales between 14-15% alcohol, and is aged 30 months in French oak. In contrast to the way they taste upon release, neither the 1998 or 1997 Run Rig revealed any oak. Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009

2001 Trevor Jones Shiraz Wild Witch
Price: $71.25                       Sale $65.56
Quantity in Stock: 4

(90 Points)  Dense, with a surprisingly tart edge to the richly extracted blackberry, licorice and dusky spice flavors, lingering on the firm, fine-grained, somewhat gamy finish. Best from 2008 through 2018. 200 cases imported. –HS  Wine Spectator Issue: Sep 30, 2005