2009 Burgundy Tasting with Rare Champagnes and Wines at Wine Watch

To treat a poor wretch with a bottle of Burgundy, and fill his snuffbox, is like giving a pair of laced ruffles to a man that has never a shirt on his back.
Thomas [Tom] Brown 1663 - 1704
Laconics [1707]

Pinot Noir lovers be sure to check out the Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Clone Blending Seminar Review at the end of this announcement for our next 2009 Burgundy tasting.

2009 Burgundy Tasting with Rare Wines at Wine Watch
Wednesday, May 16th
7pm

This vintage is so good I figure we have to squeeze in as many wine tastings as we can to expose these wines to our wine drinking people or I would be remiss if we did not give you enough chances to realize that this is one of the greatest vintages of all time in not only Burgundy but in all of France.

All of the wines on the table this evening are from one of the newest distributors in South Florida Rare wines. Rare Wines was founded because of a void in the world of small boutique grower champagnes in South Florida and one man's passion for this part of the wine world.

I know that I am trying to promote a 2009 Burgundy tasting here but if you like Champagne one of France's other great wine regions which is very close by and is a natural companion to the great sparkling wines which also shares two grape varietals; Pinot Noir and Chardonnay- yes, I am talking about Burgundy.

The wines in the glass this evening are some of the hottest grower producers in Burgundy today and you will be among the first wine drinking people to experience the 2009 vintage from these great producers in the United States.  I am really looking forward to tasting these wines as 2009 is a vintage like none other I have experienced from Burgundy. 

What makes 2009 so unique?  I give you a passage from my good friend and producer of Burgundy Alex Gambal’s review on this vintage.

"Grapes sugars on steroids; did I write that? I am afraid so but it was and is still true. What happened in 2009 was very unusual because the skins i.e. tannins were ripe and continued to ripened actually in advance of the seeds. In 2005 you had very ripe seeds; really a 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 balance between the fruit, tannin and acid. In 2009 we have a much higher proportion of ripe tannins and a lower acid level with about normal to higher but not over the top sugar levels. At the end of the day this gives you a sweet velvety wine with no rough edges. Bear in mind however the tannin levels are VERY high but you simply do not notice them. After tasting through 10-15 different wines you begin to realize that there is a boatload of tannin in the wine but they are not aggressive or harsh; the sensations is of melted chocolate in the mouth."  Alex Gambal

Join us as we experience these exceptional Burgundies along with a few small courses prepared by Wine Watch Catering's Toni Lampasone.  This is a formal seated event so there are only 15 spaces available for this tasting.   The fee for this event is $75 + tax for reservations call 954-523-9463.

 

2009 Burgundy Tasting with Rare Champagnes and Wines
Wednesday, May 16th
7pm

2011 Fougeray De Beauclair Marsannay Rose (100% Old Vine Pinot)
Price: $23.75 Sale $20.90 Case$243

A very unique wine from one of Burgundy’s best rose appellation. The family business of Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair was founded I in the early 1980’s as the founding father worked by day in administration and tended his vines by night or rather on the weekends as they have a strict 35 hour work week in France. Most of the wines went directly to Paris where Jean-Louis sold them himself and today the next generation has expanded the vineyard holdings and updated the production facility. Fougeray De Beauclair is one of the over achievers in Burgundy today.

2009 Vallet Freres Auxey Duress Blanc
Price: $51 Sale $44.88 Case$520

"Starbright medium yellow straw in color, this Village Blanc has a somewhat subdued nose and a richly weighted, somewhat steely palate with excellent acidity.  It finishes very long.  Light mango, coconut spice, and minerals all make an appearance. Made from 40 year old vines and aged 16 months in 50% new oak." International Wine Review 91

2009 Fougeray De Beauclair Corton Charlemange Grand Cru
Price: $138 Sale $121.44 Case$1408

“This Grand Cru is yellow-gold in color and offers rich aromas of ripe fruit, honey and toasted oak.  Aged in new French oak for 12 months, the wine is refined and elegant on the palate and is perfectly structured with excellent balance and rich concentrated fruit. While superb tasting now, it is in need of an additional 5 to10 years of aging and will reward patience.” International Wine Review 94

2009 Domaine Dubuet Monthelie Village Sous Le Cellier
Price: $34.50 Sale $30.36 Case$352

"The firmly fruited Monthelie Sous Le Cellier is made from the fruit of 40 year old vines.  Medium ruby red in color, it reveals earth and red plum on the nose and palate and finishes with good persistence and richness." International Wine Review 89+

2009 Fougeray De Beauclair Marsannay La Grasses Tetes
Price: $36 Sale $31.68 Case$368

“This is a delicious fruit forward and earthy wine with ripe red-plum fruit flavors, excellent balance and acidity, and a long finish.  A perfect wine for grilled or roasted chicken, salmon, or veal”. International Wine Review 89

2009 Vallet Freres Cote De Nuit Villages
Price: $48 Sale $42.24 Case$490

"This Village Rouge is the perfect introduction to Burgundy. Showing a perfumed nose of roses and violets, it has a medium weight palate filled with fresh, light red cherry fruit. Finishes with a perception of sweetness. Fermented all  whole cluster, no destemming, no filtration, and aged 20 months in 20% new oak." International Wine Review 90+

2009 Jacques Cacheux Vosne Romanee Aux Reas Village
Price: $66 Sale $58.08 Case$674

(92 points) This is an elegant and lush wine with earthy flavors of ripe dark cherry and plum. It is elegant and silky on the palate with soft round tannins, beautiful balance and perfect focus. Sourced from 60+ year old vines.” International Wine Review

2009 Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny Les Sentiers 1st Cru
Price: $161 Sale $141.68 Case$1642

(92+ points) The 2009 Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers presents the more intense side of Chambolle. Layers of dark fruit emerge from this muscular, deep wine. There is fabulous richness in the glass, along with some of the sheer structure that is typical of Bonnes Mares, the vineyard that sits just above. The Sentiers seems built for the long haul. Knockout aromatics linger on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Wine Advocate #194, May 2011

2009 Jacques Cacheux Echezeaux Grand Cru
Price: $133.50 Sale $117.48 Case$1362

This 4.5 hectare estate is now run by Patrice Cacheux. The wines are made in a very intense, hand made manner offering incredible flavors and succulence

Menu

Selection of Cheese: Epoisses, St. Andre and chevre with fresh baked French baguette

Cold Salted Cod with minted couscous and pink peppercorn vinaigrette

Country Pate of Ham, chicken liver and foie gras with conichons, country bread and rustic mustard and pickled onions

Older Vintage Burgundy Available in the store:

 

We just picked up a few vintage things in the Burgundy Department so I figured we should include these on this offering.  If you are one of those that can’t wait for these outstanding 2009 vintage wines, here is a selection of perfectly aged wines that are in excellent condition.  The only issue… there is only 1 bottle of each wine available so don't wait too long to respond to this one.

 

1964 Calvy Grandcourt Chambolle Musigny       
Price: $ 159         Sale $135.15

1966 Eduard Mahler Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru              
Price: $159                          Sale $135.15

1966 Domaine Moillard Romanee St Vivant       
Price: $ 475         Sale $403.75

1966 Parisot & Crie Chambolle Musigny              
Price: $150                          Sale $127.5

1976 Domaine Dubreuil Fontaine Corton Clos de Roi     
Price: $180                          Sale $153

1976 Domaine Montille Volnay Les Caillepieds 1er Cru
Price: $79                             Sale $67.15

1976 Domaine Mugneret-Gouachon Echezeaux               
Price: $175                          Sale $148.75

1976 Domaine Madame Bernard Courcel Pommard Grand Clos des Epenots
Price: $160                          Sale $136

1976 Domaine Henri Rebourseau Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru          
Price: $275                          Sale $233.75

1978 Jaboulet Vercherre Chambolle Musigny   
Price: $79                             Sale $67.15

1978 E. Protheau Cht d'Estroyes Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru             
Price: $275                          Sale $233.75

1978 Domaine Moine Hudelot Clos Vougeot     
Price: $159                          Sale $135.15

1978 Domaine Lejeune Pommard Rugiens 1er cru           
Price: $129                          Sale $109.65

1978 Domaine Ballot Dancer Pommard 
Price: $79                             Sale $67.15

1978 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot  
Price: $375                          Sale $318.75

1978 Domaine Jean Louis Laplanche Chateau de Pommard         
Price: $159                          Sale $135.15

1979 Domaine  Pierre Amiot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru              
Price: $375                          Sale $318.75

1983 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans 1er Cru
Price: $159                          Sale $135.15

1983 Hospices de Beaune Corton Cuvee Charlotte Dumay - Jeanne Marie de Champs   
Price: $89                             Sale $75.65

1983 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevry Chambertin Clos St Jaques 1er cru         
Price: $1295        Sale $100.75

1985 Bouchard Pere Beaune Greves 1er Cru Vigne de L'Enfant  Jesus     
Price: $150                          Sale $127.5

1985 Domaine Louis Jadot Beaune-Boucherottes 1er Cru             
Price: $79                             Sale $67.15
                                               
1985 Leroy Leroy d'Auvenay Bourgogne               
Price: $130                          Sale $110.5
                               
1985 Domain Jean Girardin Cht Charriere Santennay Comme 1er cru     
Price; $59                             Sale $50.15

1985 Domaine Albert Morot Beaune Greves 1er cru       
Price: $79                             Sale $67.15

1986 Hospices de Beaune Beaune Cuvee Maurice Drouhin - Weinkellereien    
Price: $95                             Sale $80.75

1988 Domaine Albert Morot Beaune Greves 1er Cru      
Price: $79                             Sale $67.15

1988 Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru      
Price: $129                          Sale $109.65

1990 Domaine Louis Jadot Beaune Clos  des Ursules 1er Cru      
Price: $169                          Sale $143.65

1995 Hospices des Beaune Corton Cuvee Charlotte Dumay - Pierre Andre          
Price: $59                             Sale $50.15

 

What I Drank Yesterday:

 

 

The Pinot Noir Clone blending seminar was an eye opening experience for me and I think that everyone enjoyed Jim's recounting of the Oregon wine industry's history.  He was one of the first to plant Pinot Noir there 30 years ago before they had proper tools as Jim recounted his jerry rigged garden hose that he used to irrigate the vines and the Christmas tree planting devise that he used to get his first vines in the ground.

The clones below represent the selection that goes into the South Block Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley Vineyards.  This combination of clones include the two that were brought up from California by David Lett in 1965 known as Pommard and Wadensvil and 667 and 777 which were brought to Oregon by Robert Drouhin when he started his vineyard in 1987.  This was ground breaking news at that time as Robert started looking into property in Oregon after the 1975 South Block Pinot Noir placed in the top 10 of Burgundy-style wines at the Gault-Millau French Wine Olympiades in 1979. 

This 1979 tasting that was held in Paris was the first time the best new Oregon Pinot noirs were tasted in competition with the finest Burgundies.  Inspired by this tasting and his recent trip to Oregon Robert decided to hold his own blind tasting in 1980 at the Drouhin cellars in France, with several of the best Oregon Pinot noirs going up against the finest Drouhin Grand Crus. Of course it was a Drouhin Grand Cru that took first place this time, but an Oregon wine (the now legendary 1975 Eyrie Vineyards South Block) placed 2nd by a very narrow margin with the French experts. News of this tasting brought the first widespread international attention to Oregon Pinot noir. 

Jim Bernau was in on the ground floor in the Willamette Valley and it is no mystery why his wines are among the best from this state today, experience.  It was an incredible experience to listen to his first hand recount of the early years and to get some insight into things to come in the future of Oregon’s still relatively new wine industry.

As we tasted through the different clones of Pinot Noir Jim alluded to the unique qualities of each one; the 667 with the bright acidity and the 777 with tannins and structure making these two an ideal blending pair.  When you add the Pommard Clone's big tannins and its light game note it is a nice accent to the forward fruit of Wadenswil.

Then we all tried to make a blend that was similar or better than the South Block which is a blend of all four of these clones.  The winning blend resembled the wine because it had all the same components but it is amazing how a few percentages difference really changes the wine. 

I experimented with 12 different blends and many of them were not what I expected as a blend of 40%Pommard, 40% 777, 10% 667 and 10% Wadenswil was much lighter than I had anticipated since the two clones that add structure to the blend made up the majority of this trial.  This blending stuff really requires some skill and I look forward to when Jim returns as he has committed to host a repeat performance of his blending Seminar.

Unfortunately we do not have any of the clone wines available for sale and the South Block Pinot Noir is SOLD out so the point of this tasting was really an exercise in wine education rather than a selling experience but there are a few things from this excellent pioneering Oregon winery available for sale.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Clone Seminar Reviews:

2008 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Pommard Clone

 

Red cherry and raspberry fruit with light spice notes very pretty with light earth tones and a meaty game like nuance but the focus is on the fruit and spice notes.  Very fine and elegant on the palate with some tannins, this is one of the bigger wines on the table, a nice savory finish light red berry fruit with notes of spice and minerality through the finish, some tannins on the finish nice structure here.  Finish 40+        Excellent +

 

2008 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Clone 667              

A strong minerally gravelly component to the nose with a good amount of spice and some mint notes and lemon citrus.  This clone has bright acidity and is used to beef up the acidity and that part of the structure of the wine.  Bright raspberry and some of that lemon like citrus showing on the palate, very tangy finish soft tannins and light spice at the end.  Finish 35+         Very Good +

 

2008 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Clone 777              

A floral almost antiseptic like note, a bit of mint and that lemon citrus along with a light musty note to the bright red cherry fruit a hint of raw meat.  This is one of the more tannic of the clones with nice structure and concentration the tannins lengthening the finish.  Tightly wound with tart red cherry and pomegranate like fruit on the tongue light tannins and a tangy finish with light spice and some chalky minerally notes, fine tannins through the finish.  Finish 35+                Excellent +

 

2008 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Wadenswil Clone              

A good amount of exotic spice and some earthy notes, truffle and but the spice really stands out with raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, a clay like mineral note to the nose.  A good amount of minerality on the palate with smooth silky tannins and nice freshness light red berry fruit through the finish, very bright and fresh on the finish.  Finish 40+               Excellent

2008 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir South Block          

More complexity on the nose than any of the clones a very pretty raspberry and strawberry like fruit with a good hand of exotic spices and mint, mushroom and dried flowers.  Bright red berry fruit on the tongue with layers of spice and light earth tongue, a long layered finish that is very fresh and spicy on the finish.  Finish 45+  Most Excellent

 

Willamette Valley Vineyards Wines Available:

Willamette Valley Vineyards Gris 2009
Price: $19.25       Sale $16.94          Case $197

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris 2009 (375ml)
Price: $10.25       Sale $9.02                            Case $105

This wine opens with bright, clean aromas of pear and green apple. The sip is round and creamy, with a good acid balance that highlights flavors of key lime and lemongrass, with tart notes of kumquat balanced by just a hint of sweetness. The bright, strong finish invites another sip. The small addition of Pinot Blanc, picked very ripe, adds emollient mouthfeel, and contributes to this classic Oregon style. The barrel fermented portions of the Pinot Gris add a kiss of toast and richness. Drink now - 2012.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Riesling 2008
Price: $15.75       Sale $13.86          Case $161

This wine opens with vanilla custard on the nose, accented by notes of peach and honeysuckle with just a hint of tropical fruits. Lemon and lime lead on the palate, complemented by a surprising thai basil flavor and underlying tropical notes. The well developed structure has a steely acidity with a slight sweetness that rounds out to a soft finish.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Whole Cluster 2010
Price: $23.75       Sale $20.90          Case $243

The 2010 Whole Cluster Pinot Noir is a refreshing as liquid fruit salad in a glass. This wine opens with lively red fruit aromas complimented by hints of anise, violets and a slight earthiness. Flavors mirror aromas, leading with a backbone of cherry, followed by sweet-tart strawberry and cranberry flavors with notes of vanilla and spice. Plush, fruity tannins and lively, balanced acidity lead to a crisp, lip-smacking finish. Meant to drink young. Enjoy now through 2013.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir 2009 (375ml)   
Price: $15.75       Sale $13.86          Case $161

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir 2009  2010
Price: $33.75       Sale $29.70          Case $345

The nose opens with bright aromas of cherry and raspberry backed by a hint of leather. Floral notes are complimented by tones of dried orange peel. The entry opens with rich flavors of brown sugar and sweet fruit cake with a touch of spice and clove. The medium bodied mouthfeel features chewy tannins and nicely balanced acidity, leading to elements of juicy red fruits on the finish.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Estate 2008
Price: $47.25       Sale $41.58          Case $482

Winemaker Don Crank says: ""We selected from our best lots of our sustainably grown vineyard blocks to arrive at a wine with exceptional physiological ripeness and excellent fruit and acid balance. Overall the best Estate we've made in a decade."

Aromas of cherry, pie spice, grapefruit, nuts and plum, with just a hint of brown sugar sweetness. A sweet entry with flavors of tart red cherry, black pepper, orange peel, raspberry, oak and dark chocolate. A lively, spicy sip with mouth filling body, lively acid and balanced, round tannins. The finish is long, juicy, and just a little spicy.

Tualatin Muscat Sparkling 2010
Price: $21.50       Sale $18.92          Case $220

This wine's refreshingly tangy acidity is balanced with sweet, explosive aromas of ripe peach, citrus, a hint of nutmeg and flavors of rich peach cobbler. This near perfect balance of fruit and fresh acidity with a slight effervescence balances the sweetness and cleanses the palate. The semi-sparkling bubbles also contribute to a stimulating mouth feel. The finish is lively, clean and fresh, inviting another sip. Drink now through 2012.

A bit about Willamette Valley Vineyards:

Founder, Jim Bernau, purchased the Estate site in 1983 and cleared away the old pioneer plum orchard hidden in scotch broom and blackberry vines. He planted Pinot Noir (Pommard and Wadenswil clones), Chardonnay (Dijon and Espiguette) and Pinot Gris. In the beginning he hand watered the vines with thousands of feet of hose.

Numerous classes at UC Davis, and seminars from here to France, sharpened Jim’s viticultural skills and in 1989 he was ready to build his dream--a world class winery in the Willamette Valley—and make cool-climate varietals, especially Pinot Noir, in sufficient quantities to be served and sold in the best restaurants and bottle shops in the world.

A combination of determination and extraordinary people has brought Willamette Valley Vineyards from an idea to one of the region's leading wineries, earning the title "One of America's Great Pinot Noir Producers," from Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

Our approach is to grow, by hand, the highest quality fruit using careful canopy management, and to achieve wines that are truly expressive of the varietal and the place where they are grown. Since we ferment and barrel each vineyard lot separately (sometimes as small as two barrels) we can save the best barrels for single vineyard bottlings and Signature Cuvée.

Our stylistic emphasis is on pure varietal fruit characters, with attention to depth, richness of mouthfeel, and balance. The wines are truly a collaborative effort of the entire vineyard and winemaking staff.

The winery and underground cellar are carved into the top of an ancient volcanic flow, the soil red from its oxidized iron content and well-drained. This unique terroir is similar to the red clay soil found in the Grand Cru Pinot Noir vineyards of Romaneé-st-Vivant in Burgundy, where the "soil gives France's most perfumed, satiny, expensive wine" (Hugh Johnson, World Atlas of Wine).