2009 Brunello di Montalcino Wine Tasting at Wine Watch

Friday, May 9, 2014 - 07:00 PM

This Event has been read: 4534 times.

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"I went on a diet, swore off drinking and heavy eating, and in fourteen days I lost two weeks." “I distrust camels, and anyone else that can go a week without a drink” Joe E. Lewis

 

That is why we never swear!!  And I never trusted an animal with two humps…

It is time for our annual tasting to showcase the newest releases from Tuscany's most sought after wine, Brunello Di Montalcino.  These wines are by law released after 5 years and the new vintage is just starting to reach the US shores. 

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Brunello di Montalcino is one of the greatest wines of Italy and some would argue that it is one of the greatest wines on the planet.  This is one of the only places that produces compelling examples of the Sangiovese grape in 100% varietal form.

We have been blessed with quite a few outstanding vintages over the last decade with 2002 and 2003 being the only two lackluster efforts and although we will not be showing 2008 Riservas this year as they are the current releases, most of the producers we are showing either did not make them, all the juice went into their regular bottling, or they made such a small amount they are not sending them to the US market.

Join us as we experience the latest releases from some of our favorite producers as well as a few older Brunello di Montalcino to showcase how these wines will age in your cellar if you decide that you would like to add some of these 2009's to your collection.  Wine Watch Catering's Toni Lampasone will be making a few small courses to accompany the tasting wines and the fee for this event is $75 + tax, for Reservations call 954-523-9463.

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2009 Vintage Brunello di Montalcino Tasting at wine WatchFriday, May 9th7pm

Tasting Line-up:

 

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2009 Banfi Brunello di Montalcino  Price: $75.00       Sale $66.00          Case $765

A meticulous grape selection is followed by vinification with skin contact for 10-12 days. Released in the 5th year after harvest, the wine is aged for a minimum of 4 years, including 2 years in oak barrels of various sizes, mainly French oak barriques and partly in Slavonian oak casks.

 

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2009 Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino  Price: $69.00       Sale $60.72          Case $704

(92 Points) The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is a standout expression with long and polished notes of dried fruit and tobacco presented in a smooth and seamless fashion. It shows good structure and balance but an even prettier nose with ethereal balsam herbs, tar, licorice and pressed violets that emerge as the wine evolves in the glass. The wine hints at a greater evolution to come. Drink: 2017-2022.

Only a few brief moments into my winery visit with Francesco Ripaccioli, it was evident that I was looking the future of Brunello di Montalcino squarely in the eyes. This young man is the personification of a new generation of vintners and proprietors who will soon inherit this storied winemaking legacy. Francesco's confidence with languages, his clear understanding of his family's patrimony, and his deep commitment to the winemaking process makes him, like many others in his age group, an encouraging symbol of what will come.  Wine Advocate #211, Feb 2014

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2009 Castello di Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino  Price: $60.00       Sale $52.80          Case $612

(92 Points) The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino comes across as thinner than past vintages but well-balanced thanks to the high altitude positioning of the vineyards. It opens to a beautiful garnet color with bright highlights and segues to red rose, licorice, moist earth and delicate forest berry. There’s a slightly understated quality to this wine that works well against the riper sensation inherent to this vintage. Its drinking window should start soon and last five to ten years. Drink: 2016-2023.

I recently spent some time on the Internet researching the paintings of Italian artist Sandro Chia. I was reminded of the breadth and beauty of his work: The broad brush strokes, bright colors, voluptuous figures and those odd compositions that morph into a sudden sense of balance the longer they hold your gaze. It occurred to me that those are the exact qualities I love about the wines made at Castello Romitorio that stands so tall and proud on one of Montalcino’s most exposed ridges. The art, the creepy window-deprived castle and the engaging international-interdisciplinary personalities of proprietors Sandro and his son Filippo makes this one of my favorite estates in Montalcino.  Wine Advocate #211, Feb 2014

 

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2009 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Price: $108.00    Sale $95.04          Case $1102

(92+ Points) Vincenzo Abbruzzese’s 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is a dense and full-bodied rendition that delivers an enormously floral bouquet of crushed rose petal and dried potpourri with background tones of cinnamon stick, root beer and caramelized brown sugar. Past vintages of this wine have shown great power and structure in the mouth, but the 2009 vintage is veiled and nuanced instead. There’s a silky and tight quality to the tannin backed by a long, polished feel. The wine never feels bulky or dense. It will be interesting to see how it evolves, but if you don’t want to wait, it can also be consumed in the near-term. Drink: 2016-2024.   Wine Advocate #211, Feb 2014

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2006 Castello Di Romitorio Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino Price: $157.50 Sale  $ 138.60         Case $1607 Quantity in Stock: 10

(94 Points) A lush style, boasting cherry, plum, tobacco and spice aromas and flavors, all backed by searing acidity and assertive, if refined, tannins. Starts out in a more modern style, finishing with grip and elegance. Best from 2015 through 2032. 700 cases made. –BS  Wine Spectator, Issue: Jul 31, 2012

Very ripe with spiced tobacco, red cherry liqueur like fruit and pretty rose petal floral notes very concentrated bouquet, still a bit closed with some toasty oak spice here.  Big and tannic on the tongue, very young with an array of spice and dried flowers and a good amount of ripe fruit these wines are made for the cellar, call it into action in 2020.  Finish 50+                Most Excellent + 

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2006 Canalicchio Di Sopra Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino  Price: $135.00 Sale  $118.80 Quantity in Stock: 4

Smoked meats, exotic spices and dried potpourri of flowers and mushroom like aromas, this wine is the most old world in style of the wines, sage and an underbrush like nuance filling out the bouquet.  Big and tannic on the tongue with lots of densely packed fruit and intense tannins very spicy with layers of earth, minerality and exotic spice and a long finish that just screams put me in the cellar.  Finish 50+  Very long finish with fine tannins and that dried earth.             KILLER

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1995 Canalicchio Di Sopra Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino  Price: $134.50 Sale  $118.36 Quantity in Stock: 43

A classic example of Brunello with soft smooth tannins, this wine is now fully evolved with the classic black tar and truffle aromas along with a host of dried herbs, sage and rosemary.  The wine opened up nicely and revealed some pretty dried cherry fruit along with some meaty notes and dried flowers, everything in perfect balance today.  The wine finishes fresh and lively and with the right food this wine will really came alive, the fruit being on the undercard with the wine now at 19 years old.  You want to decanter this wine for 30 minutes and serve it with dinner or some Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.  A classic vintage for Montacino and although it is fully mature, it has the balance to last another decade or more in your cellar.  Finish 45+ Most Excellent +

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1996 Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino Madonna Del Piano Riserva Price: $180.00    Sale $158.40 Quantity in Stock: 2

(90 Points) The 1996 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano reveals advanced aromas and flavors, with suggestions of spices, tobacco and game. 1996 was a challenging vintage. The vineyard was harvested on October12, after extensive rains in September. Pagli describes 1996 as one of the worst vintages he has seen at Valdicava. All things considered, the fruit has retained good freshness. Although this is a decidedly smaller-scaled Madonna del Piano, it is still capable of providing enjoyable drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. In the Cellar # 0109, Jan 2009

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Menu

Beef Carpaccio with Spanish Onion, Capers finished with Roasted Garlic Lemon Aioli & Arugula

Orecciette Pasta tossed with Lamb Ragu and finished with EVOO and Crunchy Chiabatta

 

 

Other wines available from these producers:

 

We buy these producers wines every year and in a variety of different sizes- when I like a wine we buy big bottles and even sometimes small bottles for those of you who do not have as strong a constitution as we do.  All of the wines with inventory quantities showing are in the store and available today, the wines without quantities listed are available from the distributor and will require 2-3 days time for delivery.

 

Castello Romitorio

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Castello Romitorio is located on a hilltop overlooking the Val d 'Orcia and facing the township of Monalcino, in the province of Siena.  The castle, surrounded on three sides by thick oak forests, rests in the northwestern quadrant of Montalcino, at an altitude of 450 meters.  On a clear evening, one can see the city of Siena over forty kilometers in the distance. 

Castello Romitorio, a massive twelfth-century hilltop fortress in Montalcino, since 1986 has produced exquisite Tuscan wines, grappa and olive oil in the best traditions of the region.  After acquiring the estate in 1984, artist Sandro Chia spent the next several years restoring Castello Romitorio and transforming its lands into vineyards.  He promptly constructed a cellar on the castle's ground floor with the most advanced equipment on the market, with a keen respect for ancient techniques.  To ensure the highest quality possible Sandro has recently enlisted the expertise of one of Italy's leading enologists, Carlo Ferrini.

 Sandro is Italy’s most prominent contemporary artist that is living today.  He was commissioned by the Guggenheim museum in Manhattan NY to exhibit his work and then went on to make very good money as an artist.  Filippo his son has taken over the winery as of the 2004 harvest and is now in control of the production at the Castel.

We have developed a friendship with Filippo Chia over the years and have had an opportunity to break bread with him to discuss his family’s winery and the newest releases from the winery.  On his most recent visit here we discussed his experience growing up with his father being a famous artist and other than having Andy Warhol painting several portraits of him as a child.  These are probably worth huge money but selling them is the last thing on Filippo’s mind as it was this amazing life experience that is important to the Chia family.   Filippo recognizes that he had a very good childhood compared to his grandfather, who died penniless and homeless as one of Sandro’s goals in life was always to have a castle to provide for the next generation and to carry on his success as an artist, vintner and most importantly as a father.

Since Sandro Chia bottled his first "Romito del Romitorio" in 1984, he has made clear that his pursuit of artistic perfection displays itself not only on the painted canvas but also in the glass.  Over twenty-five years of success in art and winemaking has given Castello Romitorio the opportunity to refine their methods even further and the Chia family recognizes that what is ultimately important with wine is the art that is in the bottle.

 

 

2006 Castello Romitorio Romito Di Romitorio Price: $56.00 Sale  $ 49.28             Case $572 Quantity in Stock: 5

(89+ Points) The 2006 Romito is 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Canaiolo that was aged in French oak barrels. In keeping with the style of the vintage, this is a big, dramatic wine loaded with perfumed dark fruit. The aromatics are beautiful, the fruit is ripe and the structural components are deftly balanced. Today the wine remains extremely closed, so it will be interesting to see what develops. The prospects seem quite promising. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Wine Advocate # 188 Apr 2010

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2006 Castello Di Romitorio Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino Price: $157.50  Sale $138.60          Case $1607 Quantity in Stock: 10

(94 Points) A lush style, boasting cherry, plum, tobacco and spice aromas and flavors, all backed by searing acidity and assertive, if refined, tannins. Starts out in a more modern style, finishing with grip and elegance. Best from 2015 through 2032. 700 cases made. –BS  Wine Spectator, Issue: Jul 31, 2012

Very ripe with spiced tobacco, red cherry liqueur like fruit and pretty rose petal floral notes very concentrated bouquet, still a bit closed with some toasty oak spice here.  Big and tannic on the tongue, very young with an array of spice and dried flowers and a good amount of ripe fruit these wines are made for the cellar, call it into action in 2020.  Finish 50+                Most Excellent +   

 

2007 Castello Romitorio Romito Di Romitorio Price: $56.00 Sale $ 48.28              Case $572 Quantity in Stock: 14

A blend of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvingon and 20% Caniolo aged 14 months is french barriques  

2007 Castello Romitorio Riserva Brunello di Montalcino Price: $126.00 Sale  $ 110.88         Case $1286 Quantity in Stock: 12

(93+ Points) The estate’s 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is striking. Dark plums, cherries, mocha, licorice, cloves and sweet French oak notes blossom in the glass. Rich, voluptuous and beautifully balanced, the 2007 impresses for its layered personality, volume and depth. In 2007, the Riserva is all about harmony. Ideally, the wine is best cellared for another year or two, and it should have no problem aging nicely for at least a handful of years after that. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2022.   ~~eRobertParker.com #207, Jun 2013

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2007 Castello Di Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Price: $73.25 Sale  $64.46 Quantity in Stock: 8

This wine sees a bit of barrique and you notice a bit of that toasty oak nuance to the ripe cherry berry fruit on the nose with hints of black tar and licorice spice. Lots of ripe cherry and wild strawberry like fruit on the tongue with a host of tannin and exotic spices through the finish, has some toasty oak spice through the finish, but overall very nicely balanced and built for the long haul. Finish 50 Most Excellent

(92 Points)  The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Castello Romitorio emerges from the glass with crushed flowers, sweet red berries, licorice, spices and tobacco. The fruit gains freshness and energy as the wine sits in the glass. Sweet floral notes add lift and brightness on the articulate finish. This is a refined, mid-weight Brunello that impresses for its elegance and class. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027.   Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

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2008 Castello Romitorio Rosso Il Toro IGT Toscana  Price: $40.00  Sale $35.20 Quantity in Stock: 7

(93 Points) Though dark and inky, this red also sports more-refined floral and berry aromas and flavors, all backed by a firm structure, as vivid acidity keeps it focused through the long finish. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2014 through 2027. 1,200 cases made.  - Wine Spectator

 

2008 Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Price: $59.25 Sale  $52.14 Quantity in Stock: 3

(92 Points) Castello Romitorio’s 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is beautifully layered and delineated. Expressive dark cherries, tobacco, sage, menthol and sweet spices all come together nicely in this mid-weight offering. The 2008 is gorgeous today, but it also has more than enough depth to age well for a number of years. Sweet floral and tobacco-infused nuances give the finish a sense of lift that is highly attractive. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028.  eRobertParker.com #207, Jun 2013

 

2009 Castello di Romitorio Il Toro  Price: $39.75       Sale $34.98          Case $405.45

A blend of 45% Syrah, 45% Cab. Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot.  Il Toro is the result of blending together the perfect proportions of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and the Petit Verdot.   It is another offering born of a vine upon their unique territory now of  international renown.  Garnet/cordovan color with smoky prune aroma and undercurrents of earth and vanilla; nicely balanced, with bright acidity and notes of tobacco and tart cherries.

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2010 Castello di Romitorio Rosso di Montalcino Price: $29.00 Sale  $25.52 Quantity in Stock: 1

(90 Points)  "A wine with pretty plum pie and chocolate character that follows through to a medium body, with fine tannins and a fruity finish. Really well done. Drink now." James Suckling

 

2011 Castello di Romitorio Rosso di Montalcino  Price: $29.00       Sale $25.52          Case $296

(89 Points) The dusty cherry, black pepper and herb aromas give way to strawberry and tobacco flavors in this muscular red, with mouth coating tannins. Best from 2015 through 2023. 2,000 cases made. –BS  Wine Spectator, Issue: Oct 15, 2013

 

Canalicchio di Sopra

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Primo Pacenti, the winemaker at Canalicchio di Sopra is a delightful gentleman whose wines are much like him - open and unpretentious.  These wines are ones that mature rapidly and offer straightforward satisfaction.  He has been making wine since the late 1960’s in the limestone and clay soils of his vineyard in a zone that is one of the most rapidly evolving and expanding in the fine wine world.

In 1962 Primo Pacenti, a lover of the land with a knowledge of its products, founded Azienda Agricola Canalicchio di Sopra. Situated in the northern side of the Municipality of Montalcino and in the middle of the tourist itinerary of Val d’Orcia, the farm extends for about 60 ha, 15 of which are cultivated with vines and 2 with olive groves.

Three generations live here side by side with the common aim of producing quality wines: the generation of the grandfather, Primo Pacenti, who founded the farm and managed it until the 1990’s, as well as participating actively in the social life of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino; that of the father, Pier Luigi Ripaccioli, who with the grandfather has undertaken to increase the quality by proposing careful and meticulous work; that of the grandchildren, Simonetta, Marco and Francesco who joined the management in 2001, bringing with them new ideas and new technologies always in respect of ancient methods and customs.

The vines grow in two of the zones with the highest vine growing and wine making vocations in Montalcino: Canalicchio di Sopra and Le Gode di Montosoli. The different exposure and the geological differences of the soils produce different Sangiovese grapes where balance and power compensate one another in the wine cellar through the patient work which always seeks the best blend of tradition and innovation.

 

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1994 Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino  Price: $99.00 Sale Price: $87.12   Quantity in Stock: 6

This wine is from a lighter vintage and it may be past its prime to some as the fruit is very light but if you like mature wine this wine is still drinking nicely.  We had the 1981 at a dinner with Francesco a few years back and this old dog was surprisingly good.

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1995 Canalicchio Di Sopra Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino  Price: $134.50 Sale  $118.36          Case $1372 Quantity in Stock: 43

A classic example of Brunello with soft smooth tannins, this wine is now fully evolved with the classic black tar and truffle aromas along with a host of dried herbs, sage and rosemary.  The wine opened up nicely and revealed some pretty dried cherry fruit along with some meaty notes and dried flowers, everything in perfect balance today.  The wine finishes fresh and lively and with the right food this wine will really came alive, the fruit being on the undercard with the wine now at 19 years old.  You want to decanter this wine for 30 minutes and serve it with dinner or some Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.  A classic vintage for Montacino and although it is fully mature, it has the balance to last another decade or more in your cellar.  Finish 45+  Most Excellent +

1996 Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello DI Montalcino  Price: $88.50       Sale $77.88

(89 Points) Canalicchio di Sopra's plum/ruby-colored 1996 Brunello di Montalcino exhibits some of the vintage's austerity along with a nicely layered mid-palate as well as aromas and flavors of coffee, soy, Asian spices, and roasted herbs and meats. Spicy, medium-bodied, angular, complex as well as cerebral, it will drink well for 12-15 years.  Wine Advocate #137, Oct 2001

1997 Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino  Price: $108.00 Sale  $86.40 Quantity in Stock: 1

1999 Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Price: $122.00 Sale  $ 107.36 Quantity in Stock: 10

(94 Points) The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva made a terrific showing thanks to its all-embracing personality. There’s a real sense of abundance and generosity here that starts with the wine’s richly textured mouthfeel and darkly concentrated appearance. The aromas have certainly moved into the third and final stage of their evolution with smoked bacon and saddle bag but there’s enough pressed fruit and crushed flower to keep it from feeling one-dimensional. The mouthfeel is lean and elegant with surprising focus and clarity. Decant the wine three to four hours prior to serving. Drink: 2014-2028.   Wine Advocate #211, Feb 2014

2005 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Price: $65.00 Sale  $52.00 Quantity in Stock: 1

Fine herbs and exotic dried floral notes to the nose red berry fruit cherry and old leather notes. Smooth and round tannins on the tongue with a nice amount of earth and good freshness with dried floral and lunch meat notes on the finish. Finish 40+ Excellent

2006 Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Price: $68.75 Sale  $55.00 Quantity in Stock: 26

Dried herbs and red berry fruit on the nose with notes of licorice spice. Notes of tar and black spices on the finish, a very classically fashioned Brunello with layers of dried herbs and porcini notes. Most Excellent

2006 Canalicchio Di Sopra Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino  Price: $135.00 Sale  $118.80 Quantity in Stock: 4

Smoked meats, exotic spices and dried potpourri of flowers and mushroom like aromas the most old world in style of the wines, sage and an underbrush like nuance.  Big and tannic on the tongue with lots of densely packed fruit and intense tannins very spicy with layers of earth, minerality and exotic spice and a long finish that just screams put me in the cellar.  Finish 50+  Very long finish with fine tannins and that dried earth.             KILLER

2007 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino (375ml) Price: $38.50 Sale  $33.88 Quantity in Stock: 10  

2007 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Price: $73.25 Sale  $64.46 Quantity in Stock: 3

Very pretty nose with classic black spice, tar and fresh porcini mushroom, fine herbs, licorice spice and wild strawberry fruit very complex array of aromas. Chunky fruity wines on the palate with lots of spice and nuance to the wild berry fruit and fine tannins showing up on the finish, classic earth and mineral through the finish with licorice spice and a long well balanced finish, this wine needs some time still to come together but has a long finish that has layers of spice and earth. Finish 50 Most Excellent

(93 points) The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is a huge wine. Waves of dark red and black fruit saturate the palate in this generous, explosive Brunello. The firm yet well-integrated tannins are buried beneath a wall of fruit in this generous, flashy 2007. The 2007 spent 36 months in cask, all of which is handled beautifully. This is another terrific showing from Canalicchio di Sopra. Anticipated Maturity: 2015-2027.  Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

2007 Canalicchio di Sopra Riserva Brunello di Montalcino  Price: $123.25 Sale  $108.46 Quantity in Stock: 11

Around 500 cases produced, very concentrated and rich on the nose with red cherry liqueur like fruit fresh earth and fine herbs with incense . A very elegant style with lots of structure very fresh and savory very classic style old world with fresh earth and dried mushroom and a potpourri of dried floral nuance through the finish.      Most Excellent +

2008 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino  List Price: $65.00 Sale  $57.20 Quantity in Stock: 4

2500 cases produced.  Intense red cherry berry fruit, a good amount of dried floral and incense like spice very exotic with notes of dried meats, classic old world style.  Bright red cherry fruit on the tongue with fine tannins the most elegant of all the brunello and red licorice spice and floral notes very nuanced with a long spiced finish.  Finish 45+      Most Excellent

2009 Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino (375ml) Price: $35.00       Sale $30.80          Case $714

(92 Points) The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is a standout expression with long and polished notes of dried fruit and tobacco presented in a smooth and seamless fashion. It shows good structure and balance but an even prettier nose with ethereal balsam herbs, tar, licorice and pressed violets that emerge as the wine evolves in the glass. The wine hints at a greater evolution to come. Drink: 2017-2022.  Only a few brief moments into my winery visit with Francesco Ripaccioli, it was evident that I was looking the future of Brunello di Montalcino squarely in the eyes. This young man is the personification of a new generation of vintners and proprietors who will soon inherit this storied winemaking legacy. Francesco's confidence with languages, his clear understanding of his family's patrimony, and his deep commitment to the winemaking process makes him, like many others in his age group, an encouraging symbol of what will come.  Wine Advocate #211, Feb 2014

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2010 Canalicchio di Sopra Rosso Di Montalcino Price: $29.00 Sale  $23.20 Quantity in Stock: 9

(89 points) The 2010 Rosso di Montalcino bursts from the glass with juicy red berries, flowers and licorice. It shows lovely depth and roundness, not to mention an undeniably appealing personality. The clean, vibrant acidity adds considerable freshness. This is an utterly delicious Rosso. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Wine Advocate #200 Apr 2012

Canalicchio Di Sopra Rosso di Montalcino 2011 Price: $30.00  Sale $26.40 

(90 Points) The estate’s 2011 Rosso di Montalcino is endowed with serious complexity and character. Tobacco, savory herbs, mint, anise and underbrush are some of the many aromas and flavors found in this Rosso, a wine that stands out for its personality. Rosso is often sold as a mini-Brunello, a label that unfortunately applies to only a small number of wines. Not here. This is a Rosso of unusual pedigree and distinction. I imagine the 2011 will drink well to age ten, perhaps beyond. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021.

Canalicchio di Sopra is one of my favorite properties in Montalcino. The wines are consistently outstanding, have plenty of personality and also age beautifully.  eRobertParker.com #207, Jun 2013

Valdicava

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The wine with top billing in Tuscany for the last half of the century is Brunello Di Montalcino, a DOCG from a fortress town south of Siena with reds of legendary power and longevity that have commanded lofty prices.  The wines of this world renowned region of Tuscany were conceived by the Biondi Santi family a century ago, and today Brunello di Montalcino is produced under scores of labels, representing small farms, established estates and even international corporations.  Brunello production averages less than 2 million bottles (166 thousand cases), but producers also make the DOC, of Rosso di Montalcino (usually the grapes produced from the younger vines and the fruit that is not of high enough quality to go into the Brunello) and many make a sweet wine from the Moscato grape. 

Brunello is Montalcino is one of the hottest topics in the world of Italian wine today.  With wine writers like The Wine Spectator’s James Suckling and The Wine Advocate’s Robert Parker Jr. and International Wine Cellar’s Stephen Tanzer calling the 1997 release of Brunello “The Greatest Vintage Ever” many collectors and wine enthusiasts alike have been scrambling to pick up the best wines from this stellar vintage.  The paradox here is that these wines are years away from showing their grandeur, when a customer wants a recommendation for a wine to take home tonight and drink, young Brunello is rarely comes to mind.  However if you would like a taste of the wines of this elite red wine producing region, Brunello’s baby brother Rossi Di Montalcino has been one of the hottest wines in its price category in the store this year.  In 1984 the Junior DOC of Rosso Di Montalcino was established.  This younger brother of Brunello was brought about because in lower than average quality years they could bottle the wine with less time in oak therefore allowing the wine to have a more international style and more mass appeal, while still maintaining its distinctive Brunello character.  Young and fresh, this wine unlike its older sibling in that it is ready to drink upon release. 

Valdicava is the name of the area that leads into the foothills of Montalcino.  To the left is the La Casa vineyard of Caparzo and to the right is Val Di Suga and the small hill in the middle of his property is the oldest vines planted on the property (1970) “Madonna del Piano”.   The Valdicava estate was one of the original members of the Brunello consortium, formed in 1967.  Like everyone else in the region the Abrusezzi family was trying to emulate the wines of Biondi Santi.  The early years were tough as the producers were feeling their way through production problems and many did not have the facility to produce outstanding wines.  The 1970’s saw a huge investment of newcomers in Montalcino.  The Cinzano vermouth firm, with Coco-Cola money behind it, headed a group that purchased Col d’Orcia, an estate that has produced wine for years.  Marchesi de Frescobaldi was involved with a group known as Enoviticola Senese, which had French, German, and Spanish investors as well.  Their estate, Castelgiocondo, brought out its first bottles in 1980, not all Brunello.  The most talked about outsider was the house of Banfi, the largest US importer of Italian wines, which had prepared some 1,000 acres of vines (only 125 of them in Montalcino) at a place called Poggio d’Oro, or “The golden Hill”.  With all this new activity the old timers like Valdicava were forced to continually improve their wines to keep up with the foreign talent.  Valdicava has been experimenting with rootstock and different clones of Brunello Grosso on their estate for the last thirty years and today they seem to have the winning combination.

Valdicava is one of the rising stars of the Brunello district.  The wines of this young estate are the handy work of Vincenzo Abrusezzi.  Vincenzo is a perfectionist.  He will settle for nothing short of excellence and it shows in his work.  He has seen the big companies come in and make a huge impact in terms of recognition of his regions wines, but loves the things about this region that make it unique.  One of the things that make him feel at home here are the goat and the horse outside the winery.  His father had a goat and a horse on the property that became comrades (supposedly not an uncommon thing in this part of the world) and when Vincenzo looks out over the vineyard and sees these two animals hanging out together it makes him remember his father.            

This estate has been dedicated to quality from the very start with an ongoing experimentation of rootstock and clone selection refining every vintage of this wine.  The oldest vines on the property were planted in 1970 and the youngest in 2001.  Vincenzo Abrusezzi is one of the leaders in terms of progressive thinking and cutting edge viticulture in Montalcino today.  He has a no chemical/back to nature approach to viticulture at Valdicava and believes that the health of the vineyard is most important and that chemicals harm the long term the health of the soils.  They are a short-term/easy fix to a specific problem and can cause even bigger problems in the long run.

The vineyard is planted 3,000 vines per acre and the soil is a mixture of clay, sand, Galestro and this combination of different soil types, four different rootstocks and four different clones of Sangiovese make Valdicava one of the most unique wines made in Brunello.  Valdicava did years of research to find out which rootstock/clone combination did the best in each particular soil type and the new releases from this winery soundly prove that this is one of the top producers in Brunello Di Montalcino today. The winery produces on average 2,000 cases of Rosso di Montalcino, 2,000 cases of Brunello di Montalcino and 500 cases of the Riserva Brunello di Montalcino labeled “Madonna del Piano”.

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1996 Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino Madonna Del Piano Riserva Price: $180.00 Sale  $158.40 Quantity in Stock: 2

(90 Points) The 1996 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano reveals advanced aromas and flavors, with suggestions of spices, tobacco and game. 1996 was a challenging vintage. The vineyard was harvested on October12, after extensive rains in September. Pagli describes 1996 as one of the worst vintages he has seen at Valdicava. All things considered, the fruit has retained good freshness. Although this is a decidedly smaller-scaled Madonna del Piano, it is still capable of providing enjoyable drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. In the Cellar # 0109, Jan 2009

 

2000 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Tuscany (375ml)  Price: $55.00 Sale  $48.40 Quantity in Stock: 7

(90 Points) Very pretty aromas of ripe fruit, coffee and chocolate. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a raspberry and licorice aftertaste. This producer always makes outstanding wines. Best after 2005. 1,200 cases made. –JS  Wine Watch, Issue: May 31, 2005

 

2003 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Price: $113.25 Sale  $99.66 Quantity in Stock: 19

Thick black cherry wild strawberry fruit very ripe and seductive aromas flowers and porcini and fresh earth. Very fresh and bright red berry fruit on the tongue with layers of spice minerals and coco spice. Very forward and drinkable but also has the stuffing to be cellared for a decade. Finish 45 Excellent +

 

2004 Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino (375ml) Price: $90.00 Sale  $79.20 Quantity in Stock: 17  

(95 Points) Displays complex aromas of blackberry and cherry, with a hint of licorice. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a delicious finish of wonderful yet subtle fruit. Well-integrated and beautiful. Everything is in the right place. Best after 2011. 5,000 cases made. -JS Wine Spectator Web Only - 2009

 

2004 Valdicava Madonna Del Piano Brunello Di Montalcino Price: $287.50   Sale  $253.00 Quantity in Stock: 2

 

2004 Valdicava Madonna Del Piano Brunello Di Montalcino (Magnum) Price: $575.00 Sale  $506 Quantity in Stock: 2

Wow an incredible bouquet of black almost sundried fruit black cherry blackberry fruit with espresso dark chocolate and fresh floral notes very complex. Still a baby but lots of potential here a bit closed at the moment but has big tannins and some nice spice on the finish showing more mineral and earth that fruit right now. Needs Time. Finish 50+ Most Excellent +

 

2006 Valdicava Brunello Di Montalcino Price: $124.00 Sale  $109.12 Quantity in Stock: 10

Intense nose of crushed raspberry and wild strawberry jam like fruit with notes of raw meat and fine herbs. Big and chewy on the tongue with chalky dry tannins showing on the finish, this wine needs time. Big and chewy with layers of nuance on the finish, keep it open for at least 1 day before serving. Finish 50 Most Excellent

 

2006 Valdicava Madonna Del Piano Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino MAGNUM Price: $600.00 Sale $528 Quantity in Stock: 6

(96 points) The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is a huge, towering wine. Waves of vibrant, intensely perfumed fruit hit the palate, backed up by the firm, broad tannins of the vintage. Violets, spices, new leather and licorice develop in the glass, yet the 2006 remains painfully young and stubborn. Clean mineral notes frame a blast of dark cherries, plums and camphor on the palate-staining finish. Readers will need to be especially patient, but the 2006 Madonna del Piano is stacking up to be one of the all-time greats from proprietor Vincenzo Abbruzzese. I followed the wine over the course of two days, during which it continued to improve while seeming to gain freshness and structure. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Wine Advocate #200, Apr 2012

Wine Watch Review:  Very complex bouquet of dried porcini, black tar and licorice spice damp dark earth dark coco and wild strawberry jam like fruit very concentrated and rich bouquet with lots of minerality.  A bit musty on the tongue with firm tannins here also this wine seems a bit corked with some of that terroir but that musty nuance is a bit more prevalent on the palate.  The second bottle was perfect and a candidate for wine of the night.  Without the musty note all the other nuance in the wine was really singing.  The tannins are a bit overwhelming at the moment but this wine has layers of flavor and intense concentration and depth of flavors.  Finish 50 +  KILLER

 

2007 Valdicava Madonna Del Piano Riserva Brunello di Montalcino Price: $255.00 Sale $224.40 Quantity in Stock: 8

(95 points) The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano looks to be a modern-day version of the 1990. Layers of seamless fruit grace the palate in this large-scaled, dramatic Brunello. The 2007 boasts remarkable intensity to match its undeniably sexy personality. Although the 2007 will require at least several years in bottle to blossom, the relatively soft tannins will make it more pleasurable than the 2006 at the outset. Both vintages will be fascinating to follow over the coming years. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.

 Vincenzo Abbruzzese has been one of Montalcino's most consistent producers over the last few years, an impression that was reinforced during my visit earlier this year. I tasted every wine in cask, and they were all terrific. I also had a chance to revisit the 1988 and 1990 Madonna del Pianos, both of which have aged beautifully in bottle. Readers who want to learn more about the estate and their wines will want to check out my video interview with Vincenzo Abbruzzese on www.erobertparker.com  Wine Advocate #200 Apr 2012

 

2008 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Price: $108.00 Sale  $95.04 Quantity in Stock: 3

Vincenzo's efforts the last few decades have earned Valdicava a spot among the top producers in Montalcino. The estate is located in the coldest part of the Brunello zone and covers around 10 hectares. He is a perfectionist and manages vegetation so that each grape will enjoy the perfect amount of sun and even in average vintage this wine is outstanding. This wine shows the more forward nature of this vintage but the wine is still quite large in size with the structure to last over a decade in your cellar- actually Vincenzo guarantees that his wines will age gracefully for your entire life, that means that his wines will outlive you. This wine is Most Excellent every year and deserves the attention of every serious Brunello lover.

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2011 Valdicava Rosso Di Montalcino Price: $39.75 Sale  $34.98 Quantity in Stock: 51

This wine contains all the grapes from the estate this year, Filai Lunghi, Lago, Cipressi and Nova vineyards and this year the wine also contains the Brunello vineyards of Poggio, Pievecchina, Pratea and Sferracavallo.  Valdicava made no Brunello di Montalcino and no Madonna del Piano this vintage, so all their grapes went into this Rosso di Montalcino. Valdicava is one of the few producers willing to make this sacrifice in a difficult vintage. This wine was opened for 2 days here in the store and still was fantastic, it was actually better on the second day and we forgot to put the cork back in the bottle! This is the sign of a well made wine in its youth to be even better on the second day. Pretty red cherry fruit with silky smooth tannins bright and fresh with notes of porcini mushroom and fresh rose petal floral notes very pretty wine that has great structure but it light in body and very fresh. Finish 45 Excellent

 

 

What I Drank Yesterday:  Daou – One of the New Shining Stars of Paso Robles

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This is a new project in Paso Robles, the vineyards were planted in 2007 and they now have 212 acres.  The two Daou brothers were in the tech business and did so well they retired at the ripe old age of 34.  Lovers of the vine they looked around the world for a terroir that would be perfect to start a world class winery and fell in love with the Paso Robles region of California.  They planted very dense with 2600 vines per acre and they drop 80% of the fruit to get the crop down to under 1 ton per acre, this project is is a legacy to the Daou family so they spared no expense and the 3rd leaf was 2010.  Their hard work appears to have paid off as they have been getting great press, the esteemed Robert Parker Jr. gave them (96 points) on their tope wine "Soul of the Lion" so they are off to a running start.    They combine French old world wine techniques to new world wines, the soils here are  100% calcareous limestone similar to Saint Emilion, they keep barrels at 50 degrees, they do not acidulate and use minimal sulfides. 

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2012 Daou Chardonnay Reserve Paso Robles      Price: $45.75

The 2012 Reserve Chardonnay has a very forward California chardonnay nose, very rich bouquet of aromas with ripe tropical fruit, vanilla bean spice, creme custard, they make only 12,000 cases total production, only 700 cases of the reserve Chardonnay, cinnamon spice, very nuanced.  Rich and creamy on the tongue with an array of tropical fruit, a good hand of toasty oak spice and this wine has lovely freshness and balance through the finish and even better on the second day.  Finish 45+            Most Excellent

2011 Daou Seventeen Forty Reserve Paso Robles             Price: $78.00

The bell that they have on the property came from 1740 and it is hung in the bell tower to signify the birth of California, this cuvee resembles their house wine as children- Cheval Blanc.  A blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot, this wine has a good amount of dark cherry and plum fruit on the nose with dark earth, mocha and notes of peppery tobacco spice.  This wine has power and elegance with plush berry and plum fruit highlighted by lots of earth nuance along with hints of peppery spice and a savory finish, espresso and some dry tannins at the end but this wine has everything in proportion just needs a bit of time, drinkable now but could use a bit of time to round out the finish.  Finish 45+  only 1100 cases produced.                 Excellent +         

2012 Daou Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles       Price: $31.25

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, they do buy some fruit for this label, they farm the properties where they buy fruit and all the juice for all of the wines is free run.  This wine has a very distinct earthy quality to the dark currant and dark cherry fruit with notes of sweet tobacco spice and dark mocha spice, nice complexity on the nose.  Has a nice touch of toasty oak spice with notes of tobacco and fresh earth this wine has lots of everything, red cherry and plum fruit, a smooth and polished wine with layers of earth, spice through the finish.   Finish 40+ Excellent             

2011 Daou Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Paso Robles     Price: $70.50

This is mostly estate fruit and 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot and 4% Petite Verdot.  Both elegant and powerful wines with dark currant and plum fruit, lovely richness with a host of dark spices, sweet tobacco and dark chocolate, a very complex bouquet.  This wine has lots of minerality on the palate, they use pink oak, rose like in color and they use this on all of their wines which has a more elegant texture, a very rich fruit laden wine with ripe round tannins and a lot of that spice, earth and nuance from the nose lasting through the finish.  Finish 50+      Most Excellent

 

What I Drank Yesterday: Gainey – One of the pioneers of the Santa Ynez Valley and the Santa Rita Hills05052014-What-I-Drank-Yesterday--Gainey-Wines.png

 

Three generations of this family have now been here in Santa Ynez Valley and the Santa Rita Hills.  Today they have 200 acres planted and all of the wines are made from 100% estate grown fruit.  The Gainey family lays claim to being the first to own vineyards in both Santa Ynez and Santa Rita Hills.

As you can see from my notes these wines are all excellent and offer incredible value as they control their grape sources so they control their own destiny as far as pricing is concerned.

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2011 Gainey Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills              Price: $22.50

60 different lots go into this wine. Very distinct mineral driven bouquet here, 60/40 oak to steel and 40% Malo, green apple and green pear fruit, very clean and focused.  Bright and tangy mineral laced finish with a long finish, very zesty and fresh.  Finish 45+            Excellent             

 

2012 Gainey Sauvignon Blanc Santa Barbara County        Price: $15.00

The grapes here are 30 year old vines, has a good amount of lime citrus and green melon fruit with light briny notes.  A clean and focused wine on the tongue with that mouth watering lime citrus and green melon fruit a slight briny almost spritzy quality to the finish, leaves the tongue salivating for food.  Finish 40+       Excellent             

 

2011 Gainey Pinot Noir Santa Barbera County    Price: $32.75

All from Evans Ranch, only 250 cases of this wine produced,  a beautiful bouquet of fresh flowers, red cherry pie like fruit and dark raspberry coulis with exotic spices, cola, very nice richness on the nose.  Smooth and silky on the tongue with silky smooth red berry fruit and a good hand of spice and floral notes through the finish, nice freshness here through the finish.   Finish 45+            Excellent             

 

2008 Gainey Merlot Santa Ynez Valley  Price: $18.00

This wine has a bit of Cabernet Franc in the blend and is a single vineyard wine, they produce just over 2000 cases, has a good amount of plum and cherry fruit on the nose with hints of tobacco spice, milk chocolate and fine herbs on the nose.  A rich and fruity wine on the tongue, chunky with a solid core of fruit and lovely freshness, a big merlot with lots of plummy fruit and nicely balanced.  Finish 40+       Excellent