2017 Samuel Billaud Chablis Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes

(90-92 points) Outer quote mark The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Vieilles Vignes exhibits pretty aromas of lemon oil, mandarin and fresh croissant, followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural palate with tangy acids, a glossy attack and a saline, stony finish. After parting ways with Domaine Billaud Simon after some 20 years, Samuel Billaud has established his own state-of-the-art winery in central Chablis, where he is ably vinifying the fruit of some four hectares of estate vineyards, supplemented by purchased grapes. Manual harvesting of ripe but bright fruit is the rule here, followed by fermentation at 16 to 20 degrees Celsius in tank and inconspicuous wood and maturation for 15 to 18 months on the lees for the premiers crus. These are bright, nervy expressions of Chablis with plenty of concentration and length. In a sense, Billaud's evolution as a free agent has followed a similar trajectory to that of Billaud Simon under its new management. Producing classy wines of crystalline purity, this address already belongs on any list of Chablis's best.Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 082018