2010 Champagne Pierre Gimonnet Special Club

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This icon-wine of the Côte des Blancs is compelling and unusual in 2010, largely focused on its green elements (balsam, wintergreen) and florals (osmanthus and lilac) and less on its savor—which makes sense from 2010, an incisive but seldom generous year. Yet there is a curious warmth that emerges on the finish here, alongside an intricate minerality. In bud form now, this delicate chiseled wine is a masterpiece of sensual logic, not (yet) of revelry. And it tastes wonderful. 61% Cramant, 23.5% Chouilly, 14% Cuis and 1.5% Vertus— A year later (and a new disg. 10/2016) a crusty-foresty mid-palate is starting to emerge; it’s a superb but still atypical Club, that I think will always show the herbal cool balsam and resins of the vintage, though it will of course change with 7-9 years age.. —Terry Theise


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