2009 Bruno Paillard N.P.U. Nec Plus Ultra, Champagne, France

18/20 points Jancis Robinson, MW: "Made only in the best years, the 2009 follows 1990, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2008. Equal parts of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from six of the most sought-after grand cru villages – Oger, Les Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Verzenay, Mailly-Champagne and Bouzy – benefiting from more than 12 years on the lees, after the base wine was fermented in small oak barrels and aged there for 10 months.Pale gold. You can see the richness of the vintage, but it's been squeezed into the tightest of corsets for a slow release over a long life. There is evidence of autolysis in spades but it's still so tight! Verging on light mushroom flavours. One to follow, possibly one for the cellar too. Drinking Window: 2024-2036. (10/21/24)"