2011 Vina Cobos Felino Merlot Mendoza

(86 Points)

The 2011 Felino Merlot is from Tupungato and Lujan de Cuyo. It undergoes malolactic fermentation in barrel and is aged for eight months in French and American oak, of which 20% is new. The nose is very closed with tightly wound black cherries and iodine aromas, but the fruit seems a little static. The palate is full-bodied with dense, oaky black fruit and a rather dry, severe finish. Drink 2013-2017.

Paul Hobbs has been an integral part of the Argentinean wine scene since the late 1980s when he worked with Nicolas Catena, as well as running his own respected namesake winery in California. It was a pleasure to taste with him in London earlier this year, but even then, I expressed some reservation about the alcohol levels on some his older wines from Vina Cobos. They are certainly fashioned in a style aimed directly towards those with a penchant for bold, full-bodied, rich expressions of Argentinean Malbec. Though I think they are well-crafted, tasting through the entire portfolio of recent releases, they do tend to blend into one, whereas I feel that other producers are moving towards translating the individuality of terroirs into individuality of their wines. Hobbs clearly knows what he is doing and having spoken at length, it is clear that he is aiming to dial everything down - just a little. The Felino range is fermented in stainless steel and sees 15% undergo maturation with oak staves.