1997 Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella

(94 points) Quintarelli's 1997 Amarone is seductive from the first aromas that float from the glass. It offers a myriad of dried cherries, plums, tea leaves, earthiness, spices, smoke and herbs in a deceptively medium-bodied style bursting with flavor. Constantly changing in the glass, this is a sensual wine of contrasts; it is sweet yet dry, rustic yet incredibly elegant, all at the same time. Unfortunately I have encountered a significant amount of bottle variation with this wine, most recently from two bottles purchased at the same shop. Bottle variation is always frustrating but at roughly $350 a pop this degree of inconsistency is especially painful. A bottle tasted several months ago showed levels of volatile acidity that are high even for this producer, and which obscured everything else in the wine. This bottle, though, tasted in August of 2007, was magical. The phrase caveat emptor has never been more appropriate. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. eRobertparker.com #173 Oct 2007