Vintage Madeira Tasting at Wine Watch Part 2

"I find friendship to be like wine, raw when new, ripened with age, the true old man's milk and restorative cordial."

Thomas Jefferson

This event is always one of the highlights of the year. Imagine drinking a wine that was made when John Quincy Adams was president?  These old Madeiras are some of my favorite wines and they last forever.

I know forever seems like a long time but if you are a bottle of Madeira, a lifetime is a VERY long time.      The oldest wine tonight is from the 1827 harvest!

You can’t call yourself a wine lover if you have never tried Madeira. I remember the first time that I tasted a vertical selection of Madeira at the Great Wine Seminar and I was stunned at the wines complexity and the layers of flavors and aromas that continued to rise from the glass for hours. These Madeiras were from the cellar of Dr. Bob Maliner, one of the world's premier experts on the subject of Madeira who will be leading us through this tasting tonight.

After this tasting I began a search looking for all the old Madeira that I could find, and Wine Watch now has one of the largest collections of Madeira that you can find in South Florida. Join us as we will taste through one hundred eighty years of Madeira with the world's leading authority and one of the largest collectors of this special beverage. Wine Watch Catering’s Toni Lampasone will be preparing a few courses to accompany the tasting wines.

These are the same wines that we showed in November and now that they are have been opened for two months we will see if they are even better than when they were first opened.  Madeira is the only wine that you can come back to two months later and still be able to enjoy the wines and most of the time they are even better up to a year after opening.  The fee for this tasting is $525 + Tax, for reservations call 954-523-9463.

Vintage Madeira tasting at Wine Watch
Saturday, January 17th
7pm

Tasting Line-up:

 1870 Sercial Solera TTC Lomelino           

This wine has a very distinct bouquet of iced tea like notes tobacco, orange zest, light smoky notes with sweet fig and date like fruit.  Not very sweet at all but still has some fruit with a  very zesty finish lemon and that iced tea like quality through the finish.  Beautiful with the Sea Scallop course               Most Excellent

1870 Verdelho Solera Rumerford Miles               

This wine has a beautiful bouquet of roasted nuts, molassis and baking spices, coffee, dried tobacco, figs, dates and a bit of that rancido character.  Still has nice fruit on the tongue that iced tea like quality on the finish, really opening up nicely with orange citrus notes through the very fresh and a bright, zesty finish.  This wine got 1 vote for first place.               Most Excellent +

1862 Terrantez HMB      

This is one of the all-time five star with exotic coconut and mocha, nutmeg and cinnamon spice with an array of date, fig and chocolate notes very complex bouquet, smoky notes coming out as the wine opens up.  Wow this wine has an array of delicious fruit dates and figs with zesty orange and lemon citrus and that coffee mocha and chocolate notes, fudge like quality on the finish.  Finish 50+ KILLER

1934 Bual Leacock           

A very exotic bouquet of brown spices, smoky tobacco notes and a deep dark fudge like character, this wine has very rich complex bouquet.  Very rich and layered on the tongue lots of exotic brown spices, that smoky tobacco notes and rich fudge like character through the finish along with a firm hand of acidity holding things in place.  Finish 45+            Most Excellent

1827 Quinta de Serrado               

John Quincy Adams was president when the grapes were grown for this wine.  This wine has an amazing bouquet of cigar box spice hazelnut, coffee, orange zest and sundried fruits figs dates, still incredibly youthful with a bit of funk coming out earthy and very complex and long finish               KILLER

1863 Miles Malmsey Malvasia Solera    

A very rich wine on the nose this is a very famous year for this solera and for America as it is the year the salves were freed.  Lots of dark fudge and exotic spice on the nose with tobacco, orange zest, figs, dates with lots of everything here, very exotic bouquet of aromas.  Thick and still lots of fruit here with dates, figs and that mocha and fudge coming through the finish along with all that spice and nuance from the nose through the finish along with some lemon and orange citrus, nice acidity still quite fresh on the finish.  Finish 45+  This wine had 4 votes for second place but no votes for first.       Most Excellent +

1900 Malvazia Barbeito                

This wine has a good amount of dark fig and mocha notes a note of iced tea and fudge with an array of brown spices very sweet and still a baby with lots of acidity and sweet fig and dates fruit orange zest, tea and some tannins here, very long and layered finish.  Finish 50+     Most Excellent

1952 Moscato Barbeito

A pretty nose lemon and orange zest with dates, dried raisins and dried floral notes on the nose, brown spices, clove.  This wine is very fresh and lively with lots of fruit still a baby dates, dried raisins, exotic with a long finish, this wine is still a baby but very nicely balanced.  Finish 45+        Most Excellent

Menu

Prawns with rum butter and pepper pure dipping sauce

Bual Mole Chicken served with black bean dirty rice

Hickory Smoked Bacon Dipped in Bittersweet chocolate, Blackberries dipped in milk chocolate and Strawberries in Dark and Milk Chocolate

The fee for this tasting is $525 + tax, for reservations call 954-523-9463.

Vintage Madeira Tasting Review from our November Tasting:  The notes are on the tasting line-up above

A bit about Madeira:

Madeira is an island off the coast of Morocco that belongs to Portugal. Historically, it was a popular port of call for ships on the trade routes between Africa, Asia and the Americas. The original Madeira wines were made as a powerful white wine, however to protect them during transport they were fortified - alcohol is added before fermentation is complete, which stops the process and leaves residual sugar in the wine. Sea Captains discovered that long ocean voyages actually improved casks of Madeira. Unlike other wines, heat and oxidation are essential to Madeira and so the wine is virtually indestructible.

During the 18th and 19th century, Madeira was America’s wine of choice and most fashionable drink amongst hi-society. When the Declaration of Independence was signed they toasted with Madeira, when Betsy Ross knitted the first flag she was sipping on a glass of Madeira, and when Ben Franklin was tinkering with his many inventions he indulged in a cup of this wonderful elixir. Unfortunately though over the past 150 years, it has sank from its preeminence as America’s favorite wine for several reasons. In the 1850s, powdery mildew a fungal disease destroyed most of Madeira’s vineyards. It was not long after a treatment was discovered for powdery mildew when phylloxera struck devastating the remaining vineyards. By the 20th century, Madeira had recovered but at its American market had disappeared due to Prohibition. And lastly, Portugal’s 1974 popular revolution dealt yet another blow by dismantling the remaining large estates.

There are four major types of Madeira - Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, and Malmsey (Malvasia). The difference lies in the grape varieties from which each was originally made, and the respective sweetness levels of the finished wines. Sercial is the driest style, containing up to 1.5 percent residual sugar and known for its hi-acidity. Similar to fino and manzanilla Sherries, Sercial is great served as an aperitif. Verdelho is semi-dry with up to 2.5 percent residual sugar, lending the wine greater richness. Bual is sweeter still at 3.5 percent residual sugar, however it is balanced by sharp, tangy acidity. Malmsey, made from Malvasia grapes, is the richest and darkest-colored style with up to 4 percent residual sweetness. Buals and Malmseys are often compared to tawny Ports; they typically show even more richness and concentration, depending on cask aging.

A brief description of the different types of Madeira

Sercial

The English name Sercial is used for the Portuguese Cerceal, but the grape used on the island of Madeira is not to be confused with the Cerceal do Dao. Sercial was not grown very much after Phylloxera, but the number of vineyards with Sercial is growing again. They are the vineyards with the highest altitude, situated in Seixal and Ribeira da Janela on the northern coast of the island. Some people say that because of the high level of acidity Sercial is the same grape as the German Riesling, but this is certainly wrong from an ampelographic point of view.

The grapes are very compact, about 18cm long, weighing 170grams. This variety ripens late, producing a wine with volatile fruit and good, sometimes burning acidity. The medium-size leaves have a hairy undersurface and are made of three main parts in the middle with one smaller part to each side.

The high level of acidity makes Sercial almost undrinkable in its youth. In the 16th century, this wine was called "Esgana Cão" - dog-strangler. To obtain a maximum aroma as a counterpart, Sercial is harvested as the last of the grapes, often as late as the beginning of October. Sercial has to mature for a long time, before it is drinkable. The minimum of twenty years in cask for vintages will just be enough to soften the piercing acidity. Once this wine has found its balance, it makes a perfect aperitif but it can also hold its own very well. On the island, Sercial is often served with soup, nuts, crackers or other snacks. The cocktail "Madeira on the Rocks" is made of 2/3 dry Madeira of a lesser quality and 1/3 Campari. Sercial also goes well after Champagne.

A vintage Sercial wine usually has a color of a golden tawny, similar to old German Riesling wines. The nose might display some high volatile acidity. Young Sercials often have a range of fruit aromas with a focus on orange and lemon, but as the wine matures this can shift to a more nutty and turpentine like taste, again similar to old Rieslings. A high level of acidity will be present in most Sercials, which will make this wine a good before-dinner drink. Also I prefer it after a meal to cleanse the palate.

Verdelho

Verdelho is also a white grape, the taste being medium dry, tasting between Sercial and Bual. Just like the other Castas Nobres it was very little grown until 1980, when it began being planted again. Verdelho, also known as Gouveio in Portugal, gives a medium dry wine. The grape is also cultivated in Australia. There also is a red variety of Verdelho, the Verdelho Tinto. Verdelho is grown on the south side of the island from Funchal west to Estreito de Câmara de Lobos. On the north side it is grown in the more sheltering pergola style in Ribeira de Janela and São Vicente.

The grapes are larger than Sercial, about 20cm long. They are good table grapes and give a mild wine with slightly nutty flavor, becoming drier as it matures. The vine is very strong and relatively high and difficult to cultivate. The leaves are of medium size with small hairs on both surfaces.

Verdelho is the main ingredient of a medium dry light wine called "Rainwater" which is very popular in the United States. The cheaper qualities are made from Tinta Negra Mole. The legend around the name tells that the contents of a shipment to Savannah, Georgia, were diluted when a heavy rain hit the casks still standing on the beach. The recipient of the shipment liked the lighter taste and ordered more. Verdelho is also used to make the Atlantis White, one of the two official table wines made on the island.

The color of Verdelho is about the same of Sercial, sometimes a little darker. It does not have the piercing acidity of Sercial but displays a more rounded taste. The nose has dried fruits and honey that are also evident on the palate and sometimes there are also a little coffee and chocolate.

Bual

Bual is the English name for the Portuguese Boal. Bual is a white variety producing a medium sweet wine. The name was used for a whole group of grapes but today is usually connected with the Bual de Madeira also known as Boal Cachudo. Grown on the north side around São Vicente and on the south side at Campanário and Câmara de Lobos, it took over for Malmsey in many vineyards.

The grapes are large, heavy and are good table grapes because of their sweet aroma. The medium sized vine has three-part leaves like the Sercial.

Bual is a good start for those having their first experience with Madeira wine. It is medium sweet but not to sticky, very aromatic with some acidity balancing the sweetness. Do not let yourself be fooled by the color which tends to be the darkest of all Madeira wines. The nose has richness and aromas of barley sugar and the palate often has some additional caramel and coffee aromas as well as dried fruits like orange peel or apricot.

Malmsey

Malmsey is the most famous Madeira wine for sure. The English name Malmsey is used for the white Malvasia grape which has its roots in the Greek islands. Malvasia, or more precise, Malvasia Candida spread throughout Europe during the Middle Ages and went down in numbers in the Baroque period. However, around the world sweet and fortified wines are still made from all sorts of different members of the Malvasia family, like the white Malvasia Bianchi di Chianti, Malvasia Toscana, Malvasia Istriana, Malvasia delle Lipari, Malvasia Sarda, Malvasia di Schierano, Malvasia Candida, Malvasia Rei, Malvasia Bianca and the greek Malvazia as well as from the red Malvasia Nera and Malvasia di Carsorzo.

The large grapes with small elliptic berries weigh up to 400 grams and are grown on high and solid vines. The grapes are liked for their sweet aroma as table grapes. The variety ripens fast but can stay on the vine for a long time as they do not easily rot. The vineyards are the lowest in altitude, about 250 m above sea level. The grapes are grown in São Jorge and Santana on the north coast and in Câmara de Lobos and Estreito de Câmara de Lobos on the south coast. The leaves are made of five parts equal in size.

There are many stories around Malmsey which was exported as early as the 15th century. On the European continent the widely grown Malvasia of the Middle Ages had already found many friends like Martin Luther and minnesinger Oswald von Wolkenstein. In times when sugar was not known, this golden and sweet liquid sun fascinated the people. When later the more robust Madeira Malmsey entered the market, it was a complete success. It combined sweetness and aroma with good keeping and easy handling like no other wine.

In 1478 the Duke of Clarence preferred death by drowning himself in a cask of Malmsey to the death by sword. In the works of William Shakespeare's you can find many hints to Malmsey. In "Henry IV" Poins accuses the Prince of Wales to have sold his soul for a glass of Malmsey and a chicken leg. One of John Falstaff’s drinking friends is named after his Malmsey-reddened nose. Even Napoleon, stopping over on the island on his way into exile on St. Helena in 1815, took some Malmsey to brighten his days. Before, on his military operations, he had also carried some Malmsey with him. In the 19th century Malmsey really came en vogue. There was the "Morning Malmsey" to begin the day and many other rituals revolving around the golden wine. Even today, long after Oidium and Phylloxera, a good Malmsey crowns a perfect meal like no other wine. It also makes a good vino da meditazione. The combination with coffee, cookies or nuts is classical, as is the taste together with a very good bitter chocolate. But also on its own, Malmsey itself is an excellent desert. António Batalha Reis said: An elixir to be drunken by the gods, no drink for mere mortals! Even Goethe used to sip on his Malmsey, sitting in the cellar of the famous -Elephant" hotel in Weimar.

An old Malmsey vintage will just be a little lighter in color than Bual. The nose is all toffee, vanilla and sometimes even beef bouillon. The palate has toffee and vanilla as well, added by marmalade sweetness and -some say- a distinctive taste of cough syrup.

Terrantez

This white, medium dry, sometimes rather sweet variety is hardly grown anymore. You can sometimes still find it in old vintages or soleras. Unfortunately the total harvest of Terrantez does not even fill a complete cask of wine, usually containing a little above 500 liters. Efforts are underway to replant this grape, but since it is difficult to work with and yields rather low quantities, the growers are not very enthusiastic about replanting it. The Terrantez vintage wines mainly come in two different styles. One style is on the rich and rather sweet side, as used by the Madeira Wine Company. The other style is very dry, still rich though, a little like a rich Sercial, but without the strong lemon flavor. A characteristic of Terrantez is a certain bitterness at the end of the finish that reminds me of burnt coffee and ashes. A Portuguese proverb says "As uvas de Terrantez, não as comas nem as dês, para vinho Deus as fez." meaning: The grapes of Terrantez are not for eating, nor to give them away, but for wine god created them.

The Terrantez grape is my favorite variety for Madeira wine, because with this particular grape, Madeira wine seems to be at its best. Examples like the Acciaioly 1802 or the Blandy 1846 show the enormous potential of the grape, the caleidoscope of aromas and the ability to gain in complexity over the centuries.

Bastardo

This variety is still widely grown in Portugal and is identically with the French Trousseau. It is also a grape in the Douro valley used for Port. It is the only red grape among the Castas Nobres and nowadays you can only find it in old vintages and soleras. To my knowledge only miniscule amounts are grown these days. But some glorious old vintages do exist and of course there is the vintage of 1927 which produced excellent Bastardo wines. Even though Bastardo is a sweet grape, the style of the vintage wines is often on the dry side. It also has some bitterness at the end of the finish.

Moscatel

Moscatel is the white wine of the Moscatel of Alexandria grape, one of the lower quality varieties of the Muscat/Moscatel family, counted among the castas boas. It is apparently no longer grown in significant quantities, but you can still find it in some old vintages. Pereira D´Oliveira has a few different Moscatel vintages and some vintages of other producers are still around at auctions from time to time.

Listrão

Listrão is one of the authorized varieties for Madeira wine and is cultivated in small quantities on the neighboring island of Porto Santo. Barros e Sousa makes a five year old fruity wine of Listrão.

Old Wine

This does not name a grape variety but a vintage that does not consist of one single grape variety as the rules of the IVM say. This happens, when a year was good enough to declare it as a vintage but the yields of the different varieties were not enough to put them in cask and mature them at an affordable cost. In this case, as an example Bual and Malmsey will be matured together as "Old Wine" since the regulations don't know a Bual-Malmsey vintage. Sometimes Tinta might be added as well. Blends of different grape varieties are not uncommon anymore. The Alvada wine of the Madeira Wine Company is a blend of Malmsey and Boal. The Barbeito company has also made some wonderful blended wines from different grape varieties.

Tinta Negra Mole

Tinta is a red grape and is very versatile. Often called the working horse amongst the different varieties, it is one of the reasons for the decline of Madeira wine in the 19th and 20th century. It is counted among the Castas Boas, the good varieties. Tinta or TNM is grown around Funchal, São Vicente and Câmara de Lobos and is the most widely grown grape on the island. About 3/4 of the total production is Tinta. Depending on the height of the vineyard and the processing of the wine it can imitate the other varieties to a great degree. This makes Tinta so tempting for many producers, but the class of the other traditional varieties is said to be not fully reached by Tinta. The grape is a cross of Pinot Noir and Grenache. Some vineyards with Tinta are cleared today and replanted with other traditional vines, but it is still widely used, especially for the three year old blends.

However Tinta is not of low quality, as many good three, five and even some ten year old blends show. According to many wine professionals it simply does not quite reach the excellent quality of the other grapes. My personal belief is that it has great potential as long as it is well cared for. Some of the modern colheitas and harvest wines are made entirely of Tinta grapes and they show the great abilities of this grape very well. Also it has been added to vintage Madeira wines throughout the 19th and 20th century in small amounts up to 5 percent, since the wine made from TNM offered a certain neutrality that made it easy to add, without changing the original wines nose and palate. Since it is easy to grow, more wine of the medium qualities like older blends and the non-frasqueira vintage wines will be made from Tinta. I think we are going to be very surprised in the future about how good Tinta can really be.

The vine is robust with durable wood, medium size leaves and small black berries. The must is red at first but the estufagem procedure clears the color so that it acquires a green-white shine. Besides being used for blends, selected Tinta grapes from Campanário are also used for the Atlantis Rosé.

NV Blandys Rainwater Madeira
List Price: $17.00               Sale $14.96
Quantity in Stock: 10

A light aroma nuts hazelnut walnuts and dried dates and figs with a touch of fudge. A nice amount of fig and date fruit on the tongue again very light and pleasant with a short but pleasant finish. Finish 30+ Good

Blandy's Sercial 5 Year Madeira
List Price: $27.00               Sale $23.76
Quantity in Stock: 7

SERVING & CELLARAGE Blandy's 5 year old Sercial is fined and does not require decanting. It is excellent as an aperitif but is also exceedingly good with starters, fish dishes and Indian cuisine. It has been bottled when ready for drinking and will keep for several months after opening.

PRESS COMMENTS "Served slightly chilled, this is the perfect example of how this style of Madeira fits into place at even the most modern of dinner parties. Its innate nuttiness, combined with a lovely dried citrus fruit edge, makes it the perfect foil to a plate of salted almonds, freshly cut spicy chorizo or picquillo peppers. It leaves the palate feeling crisp, clean and very refreshed". S Jones - Wine Magazine, January 2003.

TASTING NOTES Pale, bright topaz color with a golden tinge, fresh with dry fruit, wood and citrus flavors with a fresh and nutty persistent finish.

Blandy's Verdelho 5 Year Madeira
List Price: $27.00               Sale $23.76
Quantity in Stock: 8

"Gorgeous full-bodied mouth feel on the palate with slightly smoked rich creamy flavors and tones of honey, introduced by luxurious warm full orangey aromas. Simply delightful." International Wine Challenge

NV New York Malmsey Madeira
List Price: $54.00               Sale $47.52
Quantity in Stock: 8

This Malmsey has the deep color and classic toffee and caramel notes that make Malmsey such a favorite among Madeira lovers. It’s a perfect wine with which to finish a meal, and is fabulous with rich desserts, including chocolate. Production: 500 cases/yr.

NV The Rare Wine Company Boston Bual Madeira
List Price: $50.75               Sale $44.66
Quantity in Stock: 7

This elegant Bual shows the classic notes of citrus peel and cinnamon. Its moderate sweetness, combined with good acidity, makes it not only a wonderful after-dinner wine, but versatile for dessert pairing. Production: 400 cases/yr.

Rare Wine Company Charleston Sercial Madeira
List Price: $50.75               Sale $44.66
Quantity in Stock: 6

93 points Wine Enthusiast: "The Historic Series are simply great Madeiras at reasonable prices. The Charleston Sercial is the driest of the collection, offering nutty aromas tinged with honey, caramel and maple syrup. Dried figs, honey and candied citrus flavors mark the palate, which is wonderfully smooth. The long finish features racy yet balanced acidity. Editors' Choice."

1795 Barbeito Terrantez Madeira
List Price: $5100.00          Sale $4488.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

Tarrantez is a very rare varietal and produces one of the most profound of all the wines that I have tasted from Madeira. It is not quite as sweet as the Bual or Malmsey but would be considered one of the sweeter styles. Volatile aromas of toffee, all-spice, dates and sundried raisins on the nose incredible amount of fruit remaining on the nose, exotic spices. Wow still incredibly fresh on the palate, this wine is the smoothest on the palate and has an impression of silk with sweet dates and fig with fudge like notes and some fresh ground coffee very exotic and again wonderful freshness, a lemon zest like quality on the finish. Finish 50 KILLER!! George Washington was president of the U.S. when this wine was born!

1837 Acciaioly Special Bual Reserve Madeira
List Price: $2100.00          Sale $1848.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

Bual is the English name for the Portuguese Boal. Bual is a white variety producing a medium sweet wine. The name was used for a whole group of grapes but today is usually connected with the Bual de Madeira also known as Boal Cachudo. Grown on the north side around São Vicente and on the south side at Campanário and Câmara de Lobos, it took over for Malmsey in many vineyards. Michael Broadbent 5 Stars

1864 Solera Gran Cama de Lobos Madeira Blandy
List Price: $600.00             Sale $528.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

Rich amber, touch of chocolate, whiff of crystallised violets; sweet full rich. Aug 1998 ***

1907 d'Oliveiras Malvazia Reserva Madeira
List Price: $1050.00          Sale $924.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

Theodore Roosevelt was president when this wine was born. There is no such thing as -great" vintage in Madeira for the wines as they undergo such a radical transformation that when you put them into casks it could take 50-100 years or more for the wines to come out of their shell. The two 1907 wines were crowd favorites on this night and I really liked them as well. Bitter orange and noticeable Rancido character, VA, aka bottle stank, with an abundance of brown spices, figs and fudge on the nose. Excellent

1907 Blandy Vintage Bual Madeira 
List Price: $1050.00          Sale $924.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

1908 D'Oliveira Bual Madeira    
List $618.75         Sale $544.5
Quantity in Stock: 2

1912 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Madeira
List Price: $575.00             Sale $506.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

Spicy savory orange peel, a bit of VA, well Madeira is off the charts with VA and some are well over the legal limit of 1.5% and Manny has been trying to get that limit raised to 2.0% as he has had issues getting certain bottles past the authorities. This VA is a function of all the time that this wine spends in wood. Notes of coffee and fudge and lovely freshness on the savory finish. Excellent

1912 D'Oliveira Verdelho Madeira         
List $540               Sale $475.2         

(91 Points) Aged for 95 years in the warehouse at Rua Visconde do Anadia, this bottle of 1912 Verdelho was better than the one encountered on the island in April 2010. It was the last family bottling from San Martinho, which was renowned for its Verdelho and is now urbanized. Here, it has a complex bouquet of mandarin, toffee apple, wood resin and a touch of marmalade. The palate is medium-bodied with an elegant entry, very good acidity and a long, bitter orange finish. This is drinking perfectly now and should continue to age over the next 30 to 40-years. eRobertParker.com #202, Aug 2012

1920 Blandy Bual Madeira 
List Price: $975.00             Sale $858.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

This is a fantastic example of an aged vintage Madeira. So alive at nearly 90 years. A taste of history! Wine Access writes about the maker: "Blandy's offers a vast range of Madeira, from 3-year-olds through assorted 5-, 10- and 15-year-old versions of different varieties, to old-vintage bottlings. Established in 1811, this house has persevered to become the largest exporter of Madeira. Their wines tend to be richer and heavier than most." From Michael Broadbent: "Amber; crème brûlée, vanilla and mint; medium-sweet, delicate, fragrant." (05/90)

1920 Cossart Malmsey Madeira 
List Price: $1200.00          Sale $1056.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

This wine has become a legend and is arguably the best example of Malmsey produced during the 20th century. The Malvasia Candida grapes used to make this wine were grown at sea level (where these Malvasia Candida grapes once thrived) on an outcropping shelf lying directly beneath a steep vertical cliff. This cultivar was extinct as of the mid-20th century. A few years ago, one single vine of the Candida was discovered in a patch of cactus. The 1920 Cossart-Gordon shows a light maple color, mild and engrossing VA, dry tea, toffee and sweet caramel aromas. Big, bold, balanced and elegant. Plenty of acid and an incredibly long and lively finish with a touch of butterscotch. This wine will outlive my grandchildren (my daughter just turned two years old). 97 pts. Notes by the GREAT Roy Hersh

1922 D'Oliveiras Bual Madeira
List Price: $534.25             Sale $470.14
Quantity in Stock: 3

The company of Pereira D'Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. was founded in 1850 by Joao Pereira d'Oliveira. He started as a partidista who produced wines to later sell them to other shippers. For example part of the famous 1908 Bual was sold to the MWC and so today this wine is offered under the Cossart Gordon label as well. Since 1974 Pereira D'Oliveira have started to market their wines themselves. Associated are Joao Joaquim Camacho and Augusto Cunha; from both companies very few bottles made it into the 21st century.

Pereira D'Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. today is a small size family company that is still run by the descendents of the founders family. The current annual production of wine is 1.500 hectolitres; the winemaking is done in Sao Martinho. The company owns some vineyards but most of the grapes are bought from selected farmers. Part of the ageing wine is also stored in the Rua dos Ferreiros where the company has its lodge with sales room and office. Madeira Wine Guide

1927 Leacock's Bastardo Madeira 
Price: $1200.00                  Sale $1056.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

This variety is still widely grown in Portugal and is identically with the French Trousseau. It is also a grape in the Douro valley used for Port. It is the only red grape among the Castas Nobres and nowadays you can only find it in old vintages and soleras. To my knowledge only miniscule amounts are grown these days. But some glorious old vintages do exist and of course there is the vintage of 1927 which produced excellent Bastardo wines. Even though Bastardo is a sweet grape, the style of the vintage wines is often on the dry side. It also has some bitterness at the end of the finish.

1937 D'Oliveira  Sercial Madeira
List $375.00         Sale $330

1937 was a special year for Pereira d’Oliveira. It was the year when the Estado Novo government, under the authoritarian rule of Salazar, expropriated the land in São Martinho on the south coast of Madeira. D’Oliveiras lost their own vineyards here and the 1937 Sercial (bottled in 2003) was the last vintage produced from these sites.

1944 Barbeito Madeira Malvasia 
Price: $541.00    Sale $476.08
Quantity in Stock: 3

Malmsey is the most famous Madeira wine for sure. The English name Malmsey is used for the white Malvasia grape which has its roots in the Greek islands. Malvasia, or more precise, Malvasia Candida spread throughout Europe during the Middle Ages and went down in numbers in the Baroque period. However, around the world sweet and fortified wines are still made from all sorts of different members of the Malvasia family, like the white Malvasia Bianchi di Chianti, Malvasia Toscana, Malvasia Istriana, Malvasia delle Lipari, Malvasia Sarda, Malvasia di Schierano, Malvasia Candida, Malvasia Rei, Malvasia Bianca and the greek Malvazia as well as from the red Malvasia Nera and Malvasia di Carsorzo.

1958 D'Oliveira Bual Madeira    
List $343.5           Sale $302.28      

Bual is the English name for the Portuguese Boal. Bual is a white variety producing a medium sweet wine. The name was used for a whole group of grapes but today is usually connected with the Bual de Madeira also known as Boal Cachudo. Grown on the north side around São Vicente and on the south side at Campanário and Câmara de Lobos, it took over for Malmsey in many vineyards.

1966 D'Oliveira Verdelho Madeira         
List $255               Sale $224.4         

(95 Points) The 1966 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva is drop-dead gorgeous. This is a remarkably poised, sublime wine made in an understated style that occupies a middle ground between the sweeter and drier styles of Madeira. The wine offers outstanding persistence on the palate and a finish that lasts forever. Nothing in particular stands out here, just the wine's phenomenal harmony. This is a contemplative, surreal Madeira that can easily be enjoyed on its own.  eRobertParker.com, November 2008

1968 D'Oliveira Bual Madeira    
List $202.5           Sale $178.2         

(91 points) The 1968 D’Oliveiras Reserva Boal is a medium-bodied, elegant wine that features high-toned aromas and flavors, with subtle notes of smoke and tar adding complexity. This is an unusually understated showing for the 1968 Boal.  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (11/ 2008)

1969 D'Oliveira Sercial Madeira
List $174               Sale $153.12      

Sercial grapes produce the driest tasting Madeira. There is typically a suggestion of sweetness on the nose, and just the barest hint on the palate. The overall impression, however, is dry. And in the case of the very best vintage sercial based Madeiras, one needs to prepare oneself for a truly electrifying, mineral, acid driven wine. Imagine dried citrus candies and toffee, but in a drier iteration, and with a whole host of aromatic complexities and flavor nuances. Simple aroma and flavor wheel descriptors fail to even begin to do justice to a wine as awesome as this one. You can have vintage Madeira open for many months, even years, without much noticeable degradation in quality. Also, please note that these wines love air, and will greatly reward decanting prior to service.

1971 D'Oliveira Terrantez Madeira         
List $217.5           Sale $191.4         

1973 D'Oliveira Verdelho Madeira         
List $175.5           Sale $154.44      

Unique, but little understood, Madeira comes from the mid-Atlantic island of the same name, and is the world's most famous "cooked" wine. Madeira undergoes a singular, slow process of natural oxidation that leaves a tangy wine with caramel and earthy flavors as well as deep botanical flavors of orange peel, nutmeg, cardamom and walnuts. The D'Oliveira Verdelho is particularly balanced, with great acidity that balances many of the strong earthy flavors.

1977 D'Oliveira Terrantez Madeira         
List $174               Sale $153.12      

Bottled in 2009, 1977 was an excellent year for the rare Terrantez, this example matured in wood for over 30 years. It has a deep amber hue with a light tawny rim. The nose is well defined, quite light and feminine, not as complex as other Madeira of similar age. Toffee, dried honey, nutmeg, apricot and a touch of orange-blossom, it gains a little complexity with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, tnagy orange and Clementine, great tension, a little mouth-puckering towards the finish with hints of sour lemon and molasses. It seems to get spicier with further time in the glass, indeed, quite a mercurial offering with a salty aftertaste. Very Fine. - erobertparker.com

1988 D'Oliveira Terrantez Madeira         
List $127.5           Sale $112.2

Terrantez is the rarest of grapes on Madeira, producing spicy, yet fresh and slightly sweet dessert wines. D'Oliveira makes some of the very best examples. This wine, as is the case with vintage, single grape variety Madeira, will truly impress for its intensity of flavors and huge acidity. You can have vintage Madeira open for many months, even years, without much noticeable degradation in quality. Also, please note that these wines love air, and will greatly reward decanting prior to service.

1989 D'Oliveira Malvasia Madeira          
List $120               Sale $105.6         

(91 points) The 1989 Malvasia needs coaxing to eke out the aromas, but they soon muster courage and offer attractive scents of melted candle wax, quince, walnut oil and tangy marmalade. The palate is well-balanced with very crisp acidity that cuts through this Madeira with ease. There are delightful hazelnut and dried honey notes towards the finish, which shows more composure than the 1990 Malvasia. This is well-worth seeking out.  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (8/ 2012)