2009 Comte de Vogue Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

(93-95 Points) The 2009 Bonnes Mares offers up blackberries, dark cherries and spices along with a totally sensual, inviting personality. The wine possesses gorgeous aromatic delineation and freshness, not to mention tremendous purity in its fruit. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is superb. De Vogue’s vineyards in Bonnes Mares are on the clay-rich terres rouges, which always results in a more overt, fruit-forward style of Bonnes Mares. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. A brilliant career as a wine writer awaits long-time oenologist Francois Millet should he ever tire of making wine. Millet’s visual descriptions of vintages and wines are among the most colorful I have ever encountered. The truth is that these wines need no words at all; the quality of what is in the glass speaks for itself far more eloquently than words ever could. De Vogue’s 2009s are remarkable for their textural richness, depth and pure breed. In 2009 Millet started picking on September 9 in order to keep as much as freshness as possible. The fruit was 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 15% for the Chambolle villages to 35-40% for the Bonnes Mares and Musigny Vieilles Vignes. The malos were on the slow side and for the most part did not begin until April 2010. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Chambolle-Musigny and Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru and as they were bottled just prior to my visit. I did have a chance to taste most of the 2008s. In many ways the 2008s offer better balance than the 2009s because the vintage characteristics play off the house style of textural richness, resulting in marvelous, totally complete wines. In 2008 the harvest began on September 27, quite a bit later than in 2009. A cool growing season was saved by perfect conditions that began on September 13 and continued through to the end of the harvest.