2004 Poderi Rocche Manzoni Valentino Barolo Vigna d'la Roul

(95 Points) The estate’s 2004 Barolo Vigna d’la Roul combines the elegance of the Santo Stefano with the more fruit- driven style of the Big ’d Big. A massive, powerful Barolo, the Vigna d’la Roul gradually unfurls on the palate, revealing tons of sweet, ripe fruit woven into notes of toasted oak, spices, leather, tar, menthol and minerals with remarkable purity. The tannins remain big, powerful and in need of time. It is likely to be the last of these 2004 Barolos to reach maturity. This is another terrific effort from Rodolfo Migliorini, Anticipated maturity: 2016-2034.

Proprietor Rodolfo Migliorini has endured a series of personal tragedies that no one should ever have to experience. The separate losses of his mother, father and brother in just over a year is truly saddening. Hopefully Migliorini might find some small comfort in knowing that this is the finest set of wines his estate has ever produced. The 2004 Barolos are particularly impressive from top to bottom. The wines possesses more transparency than I have ever seen here. The estate still favors 100% new French oak but prior to bottling most of the wines spent 6-12 months in 2-3 year old larger French-oak casks, which has given the wines an extra dimension of transparency. The Santo Stefano, Vigna d’ la Roul, Riserva 10 Anni and Pianpolvere Soprano Barolos all spent or will spend some time in cask, while the Big ‘d Big is now the only Barolo to be aged exclusively in barrique. Wine Advocate # 179 Oct 2008