2022 FX Pichler Loibner Ried Steinertal Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau

(95 points) The 2022 Grüner Veltliner Steinertal is from Pichler's coolest site, on terraces with deeper top-soils above weathered gneiss—thus with more water-holding capacity. As the Steinertal is a gully, cool winds sweep down at night and provide diurnal range. The nose is alive with herbal savoriness, referencing chervil, crushed yarrow and fern. The palate carries these herbal notions and adds both ripe pear tones and slight saltiness on a textured, yeasty, distinctly peppery body. This is beautifully clear, clean-cut and svelte, with a lovely boost of pepper on the finish. (Bone-dry)(AK)  (2/2024)  Vinous