2004 Rinaldi Barolo Cannubi

(93 Points) The 2004 Barolo Cannubi/Ravera is unusually dense and structured in this vintage. The telltale Cannubi bouquet is there, but the fruit reveals the darker side of this site, while the influence of Ravera is felt in the wine’s vibrant, firm tannins. With air, the wine grows, as layers of fruit flow from its rich, harmonious frame. This is another unqualified success from Giuseppe Rinaldi. As always this bottling presents a more feminine style than the Brunate/Le Coste. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.

“Beppe†Rinaldi is one of Piedmont’s most iconic producers. Historically his bottles have been hard to find because they are mostly sold to private individuals rather than the trade, meaning that large lots are nearly impossible to come by. These are among the most natural, unmanipulated wines being made anywhere. At times past vintages have shown some rough edges and excessive amount of volatile acidity, but those traits seem to belong to the past, as today’s wines are cleaner and better made. My recent visit was illuminating as I tasted everything in barrel from vintages 2004 through 2007. The rigorously traditional style is alive and well in these cellars. The wines are fermented in an open-top wood vat using natural yeasts. Temperature is not mechanically controlled. The wines see a longish fermentation/maceration and are aged in cask. Although Rinaldi has changed out a few barrels recently, the only concession to anything resembling modernity is an old-fashioned rotary telephone, which seems to genuinely annoy him each time it rings. Yields here have never been particularly low but the trend towards warmer growing seasons has resulted in beautifully ripe and fragrant fruit, particularly in recent years. One of things I admire most about Rinaldi is that he just goes about his business as he always has. He doesn’t give a hoot what I, or anyone else for that matter, thinks about his wines, and that suits him just fine. Prices have barely budged since I began visiting years ago. Rinaldi told me he thought generally pricing had gone out of hand. “It is, after all, just wine,†he said. Wine Advocate # 179, Oct 2008