Eric Baugher from Monte Bello Estate at Wine Watch

“Here’s the problem, when you’re stargazing on a mountain top you are partially oxygen-deprived and you’re in command of million dollars worth of hardware. So as much as I would like to sip wine under the stars, it’s contraindicated in the instructions on operating telescopes.”

Neil DeGrasse Tyson
Astrophysicist

The next few weeks have a lot of events but even with this busy schedule we always jump at the chance to break bread with a winemaker from a legendary winery like Ridge from the Santa Cruz Mountains.

One of the historic vineyards of California and one that a lot of serious wine lovers have still never experienced because it is off the beaten path in the Santa Cruz Mountains and these wines have just gotten better and better over the years.

The history of Ridge Vineyards begins in 1885, when Osea Perrone, a doctor who became a prominent member of San Francisco's Italian community, bought 180 acres near the top of Monte Bello Ridge. He terraced the slopes and planted vineyards; using native limestone, he constructed the Monte Bello Winery, producing the first vintage under that name in 1892. This unique cellar, built into the mountainside on three levels, is Ridge's production facility. At 2600', it is surrounded by the "upper vineyard."

In the 1940s, William Short, a theologian, bought the abandoned winery and vineyard just below the Perrone property; he replanted several parcels to cabernet sauvignon in the late 1940s. From these vines — now the "middle vineyard"— new owners Dave Bennion and his three partners, all Stanford Research Institute engineers, made a quarter-barrel of "estate" cabernet. That Monte Bello Cabernet was among California's finest wines of the era. Its quality and distinctive character, and the wines produced from these same vines in 1960 and '61, convinced the partners to re-bond the winery in time for the 1962 vintage.

The first zinfandel was made in 1964, from a small nineteenth-century vineyard farther down the ridge. This was followed in 1966 by the first Geyserville zinfandel. The founding families reclaimed the Monte Bello terraces, increasing vineyard size from fifteen to forty-five acres. Working on weekends, they made wines of regional character and unprecedented intensity. By 1968, production had increased to just under three thousand cases per year, and in 1969, Paul Draper joined the partnership. A Stanford graduate in philosophy—recently returned from setting up a winery in Chile's coast range—he was a practical winemaker, not an enologist. His knowledge of fine wines and traditional methods complemented the straightforward "hands off" approach pioneered at Ridge. Under his guidance the old Perrone winery (acquired the previous year) was restored, the finest vineyard lands leased or purchased, the consistent quality and international reputation of the wines established. Cabernet and Zinfandel account for most of the production; Syrah, Grenache, Carignane, and Petite Sirah constitute a small percentage. Known primarily for its red wines, Ridge has also made limited amounts of chardonnay since 1962.

Lytton Springs, in Sonoma County, became part of the Ridge estate in 1991. A quarter century's experience with this vineyard had convinced us that it was an exceptional piece of ground. Forty consecutive vintages of Geyserville attest to yet another stunning combination of location and varietals. Though born in the early sixties to the post-Prohibition world of modern California winemaking, Ridge relies on nature and tradition rather than technology. Our approach is straightforward: find intense, flavorful grapes; intrude upon the process only when necessary; draw the fruit's distinctive character and richness into the wine.

Eric Baugher from Monte Bello Estate at Wine Watch
Tuesday, February 3, 2015
7:00 PM

Tasting Line-Up:

2012 Ridge Chardonnay Estate Santa Cruz Mountains
Price: $58.13

Ridge produced its first chardonnay in 1962 from fully-mature vines planted in the late 1940s on the Monte Bello estate vineyard. Production never exceeded ten barrels, and Monte Bello chardonnay was sold principally at the winery. Several great vintages, among them the 1973, ‘74, ‘79, and ‘84, showed that our cool climate and fractured limestone sub-soils were well suited to the varietal. By 1985, the old vines were producing less then a half-ton per acre; the younger ones, planted in the ‘70s, provided the majority of grapes. These newer plantings were on the “lower” vineyard not yet farmed as part of the Monte Bello estate so the wine was called “Santa Cruz Mountains.” The vines are long since included in the estate; and the wine is designated Ridge Estate Chardonnay. In years when differences among lots are sufficient to warrant a separate bottling, they also make a limited amount of Monte Bello Chardonnay as well. An old world style new world wine, this wine has a good amount of lemon citrus fruit somewhat candied with notes of onion skin, vanilla bean spice, the nose on this wine opened up very nicely on the second day very much like a white burgundy showing some lovely minerality and bright fruit, they use 20% new oak 95% of which is American. A very rich wine with layers of ripe tree fruit, a nice touch of oak spice and a firm hand of acidity holding things together nicely, this wine should last for a decade or more. Finish 45+ Excellent +.

2012 Ridge Three Valleys Sonoma County
Price: $22.50       Sale $19.80          Case $230

The history of the Ridge Sonoma County Three Valleys began with the release of the 2001. The wine contains grapes from a number of Sonoma vineyards - this year, seven. We take great care in selecting the fruit, which is hand-harvested, then crushed and fermented at both Monte Bello and Lytton Springs. Unlike our single-vineyard wines, which reflect the distinctive character of each site, Three Valleys represents the blending of vineyards - winemaking - at its finest. Zinfandel determines the wine's varietal character; old-vine carignane contributes bright fruit and acidity; petite sirah spice, depth of color, and firm tannins; grenache brings briary fruit and lively tannins. This wine is a blend of 79% Zinfandel, 12% Carignane, 8% Petite Sirah, 1% Alicante Bouchet, there is full disclosure on the back label which we like to see all of the ingredients that are added to what we are dinking and this wine has hand harvested Sustainably farmed grapes, indigenous yeasts, naturally occurring malolactic bacteria, tartaric acid and oak barrels along with minimum effective SO2. This wine has a very brambly berry fruit, wintergreen, savory herbs and a game like most nice complexity here on the nose. A well balanced style of Zinfandel with a nice hand of zesty spice and some of those pretty floral a gravelly-clay mineral notes through the finish, nice freshness and balance. Finish 35+ Very Good +

2012 Ridge Zinfandel Pagani Ranch
Price: $46.50       Sale $40.92          Case $475

Since 1991, Ridge has made zinfandel from the old Pagani vineyard on the east-facing side of Sonoma Valley. Almost all the vines here were planted more than a hundred years ago. Pagani Ranch is a fine example of what we look for in a vineyard: low-yielding old vines, carefully tended by a quality-conscious family who, in this case, have worked the land for four generations. The vineyard's long survival is proof of its merit. An average site would have been abandoned during the thirteen years of Prohibition, or during the Depression. A blend of 90% Zinfandel, 9% Alicante Bouchet Bouchet and 1% Mataro. A very big and rustic wine on the nose with lots of dark raspberry coulis and rhubarb like fruit a bit of that dried meat and animal like character wild game and black pepper spice, a bit on the wild side. Wow a big and chunky wine on the tongue with lots of dark berry fruit, black spice and dark earth notes through the finish with a good bit of tannins here along with a host of dark spices and a long finish, dark spice and some of that wild game like quality from the nose through the finsih. Finish 45+ Excellent +

2012 Ridge Geyserville Sonoma County
Price: $45.75       Sale $40.26          Case $467

Ridge has made the Geyserville as a single-site zinfandel in every year since 1966. The grapes are grown in three adjoining vineyards on a defined stretch of gravelly soil approximately one-and-a-quarter miles long and a half-mile wide. A blend of 71% Zinfandel, 19% Carignane, 7% Petite Sirah 2% Mataro, 1% Alicante Bouchet, they have added egg whites to the list of ingredients for this wine so Vegans beware. This wine has a little funk on the nose, black licorice spice, minty notes to the candied strawberry jam like fruit, some wild floral notes. A big and chewy wine on the tongue with a host of pretty floral notes here and some black spices, this is a big and brambly wine with nice richness but good balance and some tannins, gravely minerality at the end but nicely balanced. This is a Zinfandel blend that should age nicely for a decade or more in your cellar, chalky tannins at the end. Finish 45+ Excellent +

2011 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Estate
Price: $58.25       Sale $51.26          Case $595

In 1886 the Monte Bello vineyard was first planted and construction on the winery begun. The first vintage was in 1892. In the early 1940s, the last of the old vineyard was abandoned; in the late forties a few blocks were replanted. Those cabernet vines—now sixty years old—produced the first Ridge Monte Bello (1962) and subsequent vintages until the mid-seventies. By then, abandoned blocks replanted during the sixties were maturing, and their fruit considered for use in the Monte Bello. A number of those consistently produced a more accessible wine that developed its full complexity earlier and these were combined as the “Santa Cruz Mountains.” With the 2008 vintage the name of this stylistically distinct wine becomes Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, stressing the varietal and the Monte Bello vineyard as its source. A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, they added Cacium Carbonite to the ingredients list here which is used to lower acidity. This wine has a good amount of dark currant and cassis berry fruit dark plum and a full compliment of dark tobacco spice, black pepper and fresh earth graphite, opening up very nicely even better on the second day. A big and chewy wine on the tongue but has lovely balance and fine tannins with a firm hand of acidity, a big but balanced wine more along the lines of an old world Bordeaux, some peppery spice and tobacco notes to the finish, along with some dry tannins this wine needs some time. Finish 45+ Excellent +

2012 Ridge Winery Petite Sirah Lytton Estate
Price: $34.25       Sale $30.14          Case $350

History: The oldest petite sirah vines on our Lytton Estate were planted in 1901 and the youngest in 1998. We made our first wine from the property in 1972 and until 2002 when we bottled portions of the petite sirah as a separate wine for a limited release, it had always been included in the Lytton Springs Zinfandel. In 2003 we made a another limited release and in 2009 our first national release.

Winemaker Tasting Notes: Dark purple in color, toasty oak, pepper, fennel and mint on the nose; concentrated blackberry/plum fruit on the palate with a full tannic structure and notes of cocoa and mint on the finish.

2011 Ridge Merlot Montebello Vineyard
Price: $58.25       Sale $51.26          Case $595

Ridge first made merlot in 1974 from the Point, the highest, most exposed block on the Monte Bello vineyard at an elevation of 2600’. Originally, we wanted to see if the varietal could match the quality of, and be included in, the Monte Bello. Once satisfied that it could, we planted more merlot over the years as space and resources allowed. From 1975 on, it has been a part of the Monte Bello whenever assemblage tastings so indicated. As the younger plantings matured, it became apparent that not only did merlot complement the Monte Bello, but also had the structure and complexity to merit a separate bottling. A big and rustic style of Merlot with dark plum and dark currant berry fruit, toasty oak spice, dark mocha and dark earth and herbal/minty notes. A good amount of dark spices and fresh plowed earth here, fine herbs, black olive and coffee like notes on the finish this wine has a solid core of dark berry and plum fruit with a long layered finish, dark tobacco spice, a big Merlot with lots of everything, as bit dry at the end, firm acidity, this wine needs some time but has all the right stuff in proportion. Finish 45+ Excellent +

2011 Ridge Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains
Price: $180.00    Sale $158.40       Case $1836

In 1886, high in the Santa Cruz Mountains, the Monte Bello estate vineyard was planted, and the winery constructed. A first vintage from the young vines followed in 1892. During Prohibition (1920-1933), the vineyard was not fully maintained; by the 1940s it was effectively abandoned. Eight acres of cabernet sauvignon were replanted in 1949. These were the source of the first Ridge Monte Bello (1962). Since then, the original vineyards have gradually been replanted. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc at only 12.8% alcohol this wine is very old world in style and has a bit of funk, 99% new, air-dried American oak, earthy notes on the nose with an array of dark plum and currant berry fruit, light smoke and dried meats, fresh plowed earth, sage, rosemary and bitter coco notes, minty even more complex on the next day. Wow this wine is massive on the palate but still has elegance and finesse with chunky black currant and plum like fruit, layers of dark earth and espresso notes and a firm hand of acidity holding things firmly in place, a massive wine that has a good amount of layers on the finish. Finish 50+ Most Excellent

2007 Ridge Essence Geyserville (375ml)
Price: $53.25       Sale $46.86          Case $544

A blend of 77% Zinfandel and 23% petite Sirah with an almost robitussin nuance to the bouquet. Probably one of the best uses for this varietal with sweet liqueur like cherry fruit, smooth and silky texture on the tongue with a nice freshness and spice to the finish. Finish 40+ Excellent

Menu

Selection of Cheese:  Beemster Gouda, Reggiano Parmesan

BBQ chicken breast served over black bean puree topped with three pepper salsa and avocado aioli

Short rib meatloaf with red wine gravy and shoe string fries

This is a sit down pre-poured event and the cost is $65 + tax per person.

Other Ridge Wines in the store:

2010 Ridge Vineyards Estate Merlot Monte Bello
Price: $30.00

An excellent choice for drinking over the next few years, the 2010 Merlot Estate is juicy, expressive and beautiful. The 2010 vibrancy and freshness is there, and adds lovely balance to the expressive fruit. The 2010 delivers plenty of Ridge personality. Best of all, readers will neither need to wait for years nor spend huge sums to find pleasure. Antonio Galloni, July 2013

1991 Ridge Montebello Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz
Price: $375.00
Quantity in Stock: 1

(94-96 points)   The 2010 Clos de Tart is still a work in progress, but this early tasting is fascinating. Layers of deep, dark fruit nearly jump from the glass in this exotic, full-bodied Clos de Tart. Crushed flowers, violets and spices develop over time as the wine gains its easy upper register. The tannins are very firm, but there appears to be more than enough fruit to provide balance. This is going to be a fascinating wine to follow over the coming years and decades. Today it is shaping up to be a gem. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045. (2/ 2012)  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

What I Drank Yesterday:  La Crema Winery