217 Years of Madeira Wine Tasting at Wine Watch
Thursday, March 22, 2012 - 07:00 PM
This Event has been read: 702 times.
My heart is drenched in wine
But you'll be on my mind
Forever
-Don't Know Why by Nora Jones
I know forever seems like a long time but if you are a bottle of Madeira, a lifetime is a VERY long time. The oldest wine tonight is from the 1795 harvest- these grapes were grown when George Washington was president!
You can’t call yourself a wine lover if you have never tried Madeira. I remember the first time that I tasted a vertical selection of Madeira at the Great Wine Seminar and I was stunned at the wines complexity and the layers of flavors and aromas that continued to rise from the glass for hours. These Madeiras were from the cellar of Dr. Bob Maliner, one of the world's premier experts on the subject of Madeira who will be leading us through this tasting tonight.
After this tasting I began a search looking for all the old Madeira that I could find, and Wine Watch now has one of the largest collections of Madeira that you can find in South Florida. Join us as we will taste through two hundred seventeen years of Madeira with the leading authority and one of the largest collectors of this special beverage. Wine Watch Catering’s Toni Lampasone will be preparing a few courses to accompany the tasting wines. The fee for this tasting is $350 + tax, for reservations call 954-523-9463.
217 Years of Madeira Wine Tasting at Wine Watch
Thursday, March 22, 2012
7:00 PM
These wines were all opened for our tasting in January and these notes were taken at that time. Most of the serious Madeira enthusiasts realize that these wines are better after they have been opened for several months and this has been the case with our research as second time around with these vintage Madeira tastings the wines are even better!
Tasting Line-up:
1860 Cossart Solera Sercial
The Sercial and the Verdelho grapes are both white and grow at a higher elevation on the island. The solera indicated that this is a blend with the oldest wines being from around 1860 but could be even older. The youngest wines in this solera are most likely from 1910 or 1920 and this was probably bottled in the 1940' or 1950's. An incredible bouquet of fresh ground coffee on the nose with notes of dark fudge, fig and date cake along with all-spice and toffee, wonderful complexity on the nose. A bit tart on the palate where the fruit is concerned but still has good freshness on the finish a little hot at first but mellows nicely after it is opened for several hours, I opened the 1860 and the 1795 earlier the day of the event and by the time of our event these were both singing. Some lemon zest starting to show and still wonderfully fresh for such an old dog. Finish 45+ Most Excellent
1926 Barbeito Vintage Verdelho
A host of brown spices on the nose cinnamon and clove with notes of orange peel, a slight musky note a grapefruit like citrus nuance. Sweet and tangy on the tongue with wonderful freshness with a nutty finish with a little less bit than the Sercial. Finish 45+ Excellent +
1927 Leacock Vintage Bastardo
Bastardo is one of the few black grapes found on the island and is very rare. An intoxicating nose of brown spices, dried tobacco and brown fudge, cashew nuts, an anticeptic floral nuance. Sweet and very tangy on the tongue with hints of dark fudge and brown spices also has a slight briny note to the finish. Finish 50+ Most Excellent
1795 Barbeito Vintage Terrantez
Tarrantez is a very rare varietal and produces one of the most profound of all the wines that I have tasted from Madeira. It is not quite as sweet as the Bual or Malmsey but would be considered one of the sweeter styles. Volatile aromas of toffee, all-spice, dates and sundried raisins on the nose incredible amount of fruit remaining on the nose, exotic spices. Wow still incredibly fresh on the palate, this wine is the smoothest on the palate and has an impression of silk with sweet dates and fig with fudge like notes and some fresh ground coffee very exotic and again wonderful freshness, a lemon zest like quality on the finish. Finish 50+ KILLER!! George Washington was president of the U.S. when this wine was born!
1914 Rutherford & Miles Vintage Bual
A very spicy and exotic bouquet with hints of curry apple chutney, lemon zest and white fudge, a lot of VA on the nose. Wow- a bit overbearing on the first sip tangy with brown spice and a citrusy quality also taking on some of that dried meat jerky character after a few days open in the glass. This wine is still quite youthful and after opening up for a few days really showed nicely, I can’t wait to try this wine at our second vintage event in March. All of these wines will be on the table for a 2nd time and usually they show better a few months after they are opened! Finish 50+ Most Excellent
1916 Barbeito Vintage Malmsey
A bit of bottle stink but very seductive bouquet of fudge walnuts dates and brown spices, tobacco. Wow thick and chewy on the tongue with layers of brown spice fudge and a tar like quality to the finish, dates and mandarin orange . This wine really stands out on the nose after two day with aromas of beef jerky and smoked meats now coming out again I can’t wait to try this again in March. Finish 50+ Most Excellent +
Menu
Tuna with Spicy Curry served with apple, currant and Cashew chutney
Clove Scented Pork belly with maple syrup glaze and toasted peanut dust
Chocolate covered bacon, dark chocolate truffles, fig and nut cake served with epoisses
The fee for this tasting is $350 + tax, for reservations call 954-523-9463.
Madeira is an island off the coast of Morocco that belongs to Portugal. Historically, it was a popular port of call for ships on the trade routes between Africa, Asia and the Americas. The original Madeira wines were made as a powerful white wine, however to protect them during transport they were fortified - alcohol is added before fermentation is complete, which stops the process and leaves residual sugar in the wine. Sea Captains discovered that long ocean voyages actually improved casks of Madeira. Unlike other wines, heat and oxidation are essential to Madeira and so the wine is virtually indestructible.
During the 18th and 19th century, Madeira was America’s wine of choice and most fashionable drink amongst hi-society. When the Declaration of Independence was signed they toasted with Madeira, when Betsy Ross knitted the first flag she was sipping on a glass of Madeira, and when Ben Franklin was tinkering with his many inventions he indulged in a cup of this wonderful elixir.
Unfortunately though over the past 150 years, it has sank from its preeminence as America’s favorite wine for several reasons. In the 1850s, powdery mildew a fungal disease destroyed most of Madeira’s vineyards. It was not long after a treatment was discovered for powdery mildew when phylloxera struck devastating the remaining vineyards. By the 20th century, Madeira had recovered but at its American market had disappeared due to Prohibition. And lastly, Portugal’s 1974 popular revolution dealt yet another blow by dismantling the remaining large estates.
There are four major types of Madeira - Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, and Malmsey (Malvasia). The difference lies in the grape varieties from which each was originally made, and the respective sweetness levels of the finished wines. Sercial is the driest style, containing up to 1.5 percent residual sugar and known for its hi-acidity. Similar to fino and manzanilla Sherries, Sercial is great served as an aperitif. Verdelho is semi-dry with up to 2.5 percent residual sugar, lending the wine greater richness. Bual is sweeter still at 3.5 percent residual sugar, however it is balanced by sharp, tangy acidity. Malmsey, made from Malvasia grapes, is the richest and darkest-colored style with up to 4 percent residual sweetness. Buals and Malmseys are often compared to tawny Ports; they typically show even more richness and concentration, depending on cask aging.
Madeira Available for purchase:
NV Blandys Madeira Rainwater
Price: $17.00
Quantity in Stock: 10
A light aroma nuts hazelnut walnuts and dried dates and figs with a touch of fudge. A nice amount of fig and date fruit on the tongue again very light and pleasant with a short but pleasant finish. Finish 30+ Good
Blandy's Madeira Verdelho 5 Year
Price: $27.00
Quantity in Stock: 11
"Gorgeous full-bodied mouth feel on the palate with slightly smoked rich creamy flavours and tones of honey, introduced by luxurious warm full orangey aromas. Simply delightful." International Wine Challenge
Blandy's Madeira Alvada 5 Year
Price: $19.50
Quantity in Stock: 2
Blandy's Madeira Bual 5 Year
Price: $27.00 Sale $23.76
Quantity in Stock: 11
“The Madeira Wine Company's bid for post- modern Madeira works surprisingly well in its flashy shocking pink-labeled 50cl bottle. They deliberately use shaved oak casks to increase the oaky component. Quite light but very vibrant and edgy and very, very definitely Madeira. Sappy, bright, you could drink this with some foods too”. Jancis Robinson
Rare Wine Company Madeira Charleston Sercial
Price: $50.75
Quantity in Stock: 12
93 points Wine Enthusiast: "The Historic Series are simply great Madeiras at reasonable prices. The Charleston Sercial is the driest of the collection, offering nutty aromas tinged with honey, caramel and maple syrup. Dried figs, honey and candied citrus flavors mark the palate, which is wonderfully smooth. The long finish features racy yet balanced acidity. Editors' Choice."
The Rare Wine Company Maderia Savannah Verdelho
Price: $50.75
Quantity in Stock: 10
The RWC historic Series Madeiras are a collaboration between The Rare Wine Company and Vinhos Barbeito. The goal here is to produce wines that evoke the mature vintage Madeiras of days long past. The various wines in the series are made up of a blend of younger varietal wines and older stocks. The Savannah Verdelho is the newest wine in the series. Produced from a blend of 10 year old Verdelho mixed with small quantities of 40-60 year old Tinta Negra Mole by Ricardo Freitas, grandson of the founder Mario Barbeito, this amber gold colored wine is barely sweet with rich walnut/almond aroma and flavor. Toasted barrel character on the finish adds to the complexity of this Madeira.
NV New York Maderia Malmsey
Price: $54.00
Quantity in Stock: 9
This Malmsey has the deep color and classic toffee and caramel notes that make Malmsey such a favorite among Madeira lovers. It’s a perfect wine with which to finish a meal, and is fabulous with rich desserts, including chocolate. Production: 500 cases/yr.
NV The Rare Wine Company Madeira Boston Bual
Price: $50.75
Quantity in Stock: 11
This elegant Bual shows the classic notes of citrus peel and cinnamon. Its moderate sweetness, combined with good acidity, makes it not only a wonderful after-dinner wine, but versatile for dessert pairing. Production: 400 cases/yr.
1914 Barbeito Bual Madeira
Price: $350.00 Sale $308
Quantity in Stock: 2
1922 D'Oliveira Bual Madeira
Price: $531.00
Quantity in Stock: 2
The company of Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. was founded in 1850 by Joao Pereira d’Oliveira. He started as a partidista who produced wines to later sell them to other shippers. For example part of the famous 1908 Bual was sold to the MWC and so today this wine is offered under the Cossart Gordon label as well. Since 1974 Pereira D'Oliveira have started to market their wines themselves. Associated are Joao Joaquim Camacho and Augusto Cunha; from both companies very few bottles made it into the 21st century.
Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. today is a small size family company that is still run by the descendents of the founders family. The current annual production of wine is 1.500 hectolitres; the winemaking is done in Sao Martinho. The company owns some vineyards but most of the grapes are bought from selected farmers. Part of the ageing wine is also stored in the Rua dos Ferreiros where the company has its lodge with sales room and office. Madeira Wine Guide
1937 D'Oliveira Sercial Madeira
Price: $322.50 Sale $283.80
Quantity in Stock: 1
(93 Points) Full of verve, this Madeira is deep amber in color, with a fresh, complex bouquet evoking cocoa, caramel and a hint of iodine. The lovely butterscotch flavor marries well with the lively structure and is followed by a dry, nutty finish. Drink now. –BS Wine Spectator Issue: Jan 31, 2000
1950 Barbeito Bual Reserva Velha Madeira
Price: $320.00
Quantity in Stock: 1
1954 Barbeito Malvesia Madeira
Price: $292.00
Quantity in Stock: 5
(93 Points) Though not forthcoming in aroma, displaying butterscotch and hints of herbs, this has a seamless integration of components on the palate, balanced and harmonious, with vibrant acidity weaving throughout. Long finish, adding just a hint of dryness at the end. Gentle, with inner strength. Drink now. –BS Wine Spectator Issue: Apr 30, 1999
1968 D' Oliveira Bual Madeira
Price: $192.00
Quantity in Stock: 2
A little info about Madeira:
Today, D’Oliveira and Barbeito represent the finest source for old Madeiras in the world. D’Oliveira dates back to 1820 and since then, it has been owned by the same family. Overtime, the family increased their vineyard holdings through a series of marriages with other wine-producing families. The D’Oliveiras have held onto many of its most famous vintages and in doing so, they have created a unique and irreplaceable stock of old wines. Remarkably, all of these wines were produced by the D’Oliveiras and their ancestors, not purchased from other shippers or growers. There is a definite house style - they have very powerful aromatics, great lushness and viscosity, incredible structure, and a tangy character that is essential to the finest wines of the 18th and 19th centuries.
Barbeito was founded just 53 years ago in 1946, however it has the most impressive stock of very old wines in the world. The incredible range of old vintages today is due to the foresight of the company’s owner Mario Barbeito de Vasconcelos. In the 1940s and 1950s, he bought up large quantities of privately owned wine, some of it dating back to the 18th century. These old wines became the foundation for one of the world’s most unique wine libraries. At the time Barbeito acquired these wines, they were virtually all still in cask, a traditional practice in Madeira, where 50 to 100 years or more in wood is mandatory for the very greatest wines. The long, slow oxidative process in cask adds to the wines complexity. And though very costly to the owner, the evaporation in barrel concentrates the flavor and extract. Both D’Oliveira and Barbeito believe that Madeiras age best in cask. They keep all of their vintages in wood, and only bottle enough to meet short-term demand.
A brief description of the different types of Madeira
Sercial
The English name Sercial is used for the Portuguese Cerceal, but the grape used on the island of Madeira is not to be confused with the Cerceal do Dao. Sercial was not grown very much after Phylloxera, but the number of vineyards with Sercial is growing again. They are the vineyards with the highest altitude, situated in Seixal and Ribeira da Janela on the northern coast of the island. Some people say that because of the high level of acidity Sercial is the same grape as the German Riesling, but this is certainly wrong from an ampelographic point of view.
The grapes are very compact, about 18cm long, weighing 170grams. This variety ripens late, producing a wine with volatile fruit and good, sometimes burning acidity. The medium-size leaves have a hairy undersurface and are made of three main parts in the middle with one smaller part to each side.
The high level of acidity makes Sercial almost undrinkable in its youth. In the 16th century, this wine was called "Esgana Cão" - dog-strangler. To obtain a maximum aroma as a counterpart, Sercial is harvested as the last of the grapes, often as late as the beginning of October. Sercial has to mature for a long time, before it is drinkable. The minimum of twenty years in cask for vintages will just be enough to soften the piercing acidity. Once this wine has found its balance, it makes a perfect aperitif but it can also hold its own very well. On the island, Sercial is often served with soup, nuts, crackers or other snacks. The cocktail "Madeira on the Rocks" is made of 2/3 dry Madeira of a lesser quality and 1/3 Campari. Sercial also goes well after Champagne.
A vintage Sercial wine usually has a color of a golden tawny, similar to old German Riesling wines. The nose might display some high volatile acidity. Young Sercials often have a range of fruit aromas with a focus on orange and lemon, but as the wine matures this can shift to a more nutty and turpentine like taste, again similar to old Rieslings. A high level of acidity will be present in most Sercials, which will make this wine a good before-dinner drink. Also I prefer it after a meal to cleanse the palate.
Verdelho
Verdelho is also a white grape, the taste being medium dry, tasting between Sercial and Bual. Just like the other Castas Nobres it was very little grown until 1980, when it began being planted again. Verdelho, also known as Gouveio in Portugal, gives a medium dry wine. The grape is also cultivated in Australia. There also is a red variety of Verdelho, the Verdelho Tinto. Verdelho is grown on the south side of the island from Funchal west to Estreito de Câmara de Lobos. On the north side it is grown in the more sheltering pergola style in Ribeira de Janela and São Vicente.
The grapes are larger than Sercial, about 20cm long. They are good table grapes and give a mild wine with slightly nutty flavor, becoming drier as it matures. The vine is very strong and relatively high and difficult to cultivate. The leaves are of medium size with small hairs on both surfaces.
Verdelho is the main ingredient of a medium dry light wine called "Rainwater" which is very popular in the United States. The cheaper qualities are made from Tinta Negra Mole. The legend around the name tells that the contents of a shipment to Savannah, Georgia, were diluted when a heavy rain hit the casks still standing on the beach. The recipient of the shipment liked the lighter taste and ordered more. Verdelho is also used to make the Atlantis White, one of the two official table wines made on the island.
The color of Verdelho is about the same of Sercial, sometimes a little darker. It does not have the piercing acidity of Sercial but displays a more rounded taste. The nose has dried fruits and honey that are also evident on the palate and sometimes there are also a little coffee and chocolate.
Bual
Bual is the English name for the Portuguese Boal. Bual is a white variety producing a medium sweet wine. The name was used for a whole group of grapes but today is usually connected with the Bual de Madeira also known as Boal Cachudo. Grown on the north side around São Vicente and on the south side at Campanário and Câmara de Lobos, it took over for Malmsey in many vineyards.
The grapes are large, heavy and are good table grapes because of their sweet aroma. The medium sized vine has three-part leaves like the Sercial.
Bual is a good start for those having their first experience with Madeira wine. It is medium sweet but not to sticky, very aromatic with some acidity balancing the sweetness. Do not let yourself be fooled by the color which tends to be the darkest of all Madeira wines. The nose has richness and aromas of barley sugar and the palate often has some additional caramel and coffee aromas as well as dried fruits like orange peel or apricot.
Malmsey
Malmsey is the most famous Madeira wine for sure. The English name Malmsey is used for the white Malvasia grape which has its roots in the Greek islands. Malvasia, or more precise, Malvasia Candida spread throughout Europe during the Middle Ages and went down in numbers in the Baroque period. However, around the world sweet and fortified wines are still made from all sorts of different members of the Malvasia family, like the white Malvasia Bianchi di Chianti, Malvasia Toscana, Malvasia Istriana, Malvasia delle Lipari, Malvasia Sarda, Malvasia di Schierano, Malvasia Candida, Malvasia Rei, Malvasia Bianca and the greek Malvazia as well as from the red Malvasia Nera and Malvasia di Carsorzo.
The large grapes with small elliptic berries weigh up to 400 grams and are grown on high and solid vines. The grapes are liked for their sweet aroma as table grapes. The variety ripens fast but can stay on the vine for a long time as they do not easily rot. The vineyards are the lowest in altitude, about 250 m above sea level. The grapes are grown in São Jorge and Santana on the north coast and in Câmara de Lobos and Estreito de Câmara de Lobos on the south coast. The leaves are made of five parts equal in size.
There are many stories around Malmsey which was exported as early as the 15th century. On the European continent the widely grown Malvasia of the Middle Ages had already found many friends like Martin Luther and minnesinger Oswald von Wolkenstein. In times when sugar was not known, this golden and sweet liquid sun fascinated the people. When later the more robust Madeira Malmsey entered the market, it was a complete success. It combined sweetness and aroma with good keeping and easy handling like no other wine.
In 1478 the Duke of Clarence preferred death by drowning himself in a cask of Malmsey to the death by sword. In the works of William Shakespeare's you can find many hints to Malmsey. In "Henry IV" Poins accuses the Prince of Wales to have sold his soul for a glass of Malmsey and a chicken leg. One of John Falstaff’s drinking friends is named after his Malmsey-reddened nose. Even Napoleon, stopping over on the island on his way into exile on St. Helena in 1815, took some Malmsey to brighten his days. Before, on his military operations, he had also carried some Malmsey with him. In the 19th century Malmsey really came en vogue. There was the "Morning Malmsey" to begin the day and many other rituals revolving around the golden wine. Even today, long after Oidium and Phylloxera, a good Malmsey crowns a perfect meal like no other wine. It also makes a good vino da meditazione. The combination with coffee, cookies or nuts is classical, as is the taste together with a very good bitter chocolate. But also on its own, Malmsey itself is an excellent desert. António Batalha Reis said: An elixir to be drunken by the gods, no drink for mere mortals! Even Goethe used to sip on his Malmsey, sitting in the cellar of the famous -Elephant" hotel in Weimar.
An old Malmsey vintage will just be a little lighter in color than Bual. The nose is all toffee, vanilla and sometimes even beef bouillon. The palate has toffee and vanilla as well, added by marmalade sweetness and -some say- a distinctive taste of cough syrup.
Terrantez
This white, medium dry, sometimes rather sweet variety is hardly grown anymore. You can sometimes still find it in old vintages or soleras. Unfortunately the total harvest of Terrantez does not even fill a complete cask of wine, usually containing a little above 500 liters. Efforts are underway to replant this grape, but since it is difficult to work with and yields rather low quantities, the growers are not very enthusiastic about replanting it. The Terrantez vintage wines mainly come in two different styles. One style is on the rich and rather sweet side, as used by the Madeira Wine Company. The other style is very dry, still rich though, a little like a rich Sercial, but without the strong lemon flavor. A characteristic of Terrantez is a certain bitterness at the end of the finish that reminds me of burnt coffee and ashes. A Portuguese proverb says "As uvas de Terrantez, não as comas nem as dês, para vinho Deus as fez." meaning: The grapes of Terrantez are not for eating, nor to give them away, but for wine god created them.
The Terrantez grape is my favorite variety for Madeira wine, because with this particular grape, Madeira wine seems to be at its best. Examples like the Acciaioly 1802 or the Blandy 1846 show the enormous potential of the grape, the caleidoscope of aromas and the ability to gain in complexity over the centuries.
Bastardo
This variety is still widely grown in Portugal and is identically with the French Trousseau. It is also a grape in the Douro valley used for Port. It is the only red grape among the Castas Nobres and nowadays you can only find it in old vintages and soleras. To my knowledge only miniscule amounts are grown these days. But some glorious old vintages do exist and of course there is the vintage of 1927 which produced excellent Bastardo wines. Even though Bastardo is a sweet grape, the style of the vintage wines is often on the dry side. It also has some bitterness at the end of the finish.
Moscatel
Moscatel is the white wine of the Moscatel of Alexandria grape, one of the lower quality varieties of the Muscat/Moscatel family, counted among the castas boas. It is apparently no longer grown in significant quantities, but you can still find it in some old vintages. Pereira D´Oliveira has a few different Moscatel vintages and some vintages of other producers are still around at auctions from time to time.
Listrão
Listrão is one of the authorized varieties for Madeira wine and is cultivated in small quantities on the neighboring island of Porto Santo. Barros e Sousa makes a five year old fruity wine of Listrão.
Old Wine
This does not name a grape variety but a vintage that does not consist of one single grape variety as the rules of the IVM say. This happens, when a year was good enough to declare it as a vintage but the yields of the different varieties were not enough to put them in cask and mature them at an affordable cost. In this case, as an example Bual and Malmsey will be matured together as "Old Wine" since the regulations don't know a Bual-Malmsey vintage. Sometimes Tinta might be added as well. Blends of different grape varieties are not uncommon anymore. The Alvada wine of the Madeira Wine Company is a blend of Malmsey and Boal. The Barbeito company has also made some wonderful blended wines from different grape varieties.
Tinta Negra Mole
Tinta is a red grape and is very versatile. Often called the working horse amongst the different varieties, it is one of the reasons for the decline of Madeira wine in the 19th and 20th century. It is counted among the Castas Boas, the good varieties. Tinta or TNM is grown around Funchal, São Vicente and Câmara de Lobos and is the most widely grown grape on the island. About 3/4 of the total production is Tinta. Depending on the height of the vineyard and the processing of the wine it can imitate the other varieties to a great degree. This makes Tinta so tempting for many producers, but the class of the other traditional varieties is said to be not fully reached by Tinta. The grape is a cross of Pinot Noir and Grenache. Some vineyards with Tinta are cleared today and replanted with other traditional vines, but it is still widely used, especially for the three year old blends.
However Tinta is not of low quality, as many good three, five and even some ten year old blends show. According to many wine professionals it simply does not quite reach the excellent quality of the other grapes. My personal belief is that it has great potential as long as it is well cared for. Some of the modern colheitas and harvest wines are made entirely of Tinta grapes and they show the great abilities of this grape very well. Also it has been added to vintage Madeira wines throughout the 19th and 20th century in small amounts up to 5 percent, since the wine made from TNM offered a certain neutrality that made it easy to add, without changing the original wines nose and palate. Since it is easy to grow, more wine of the medium qualities like older blends and the non-frasqueira vintage wines will be made from Tinta. I think we are going to be very surprised in the future about how good Tinta can really be.
The vine is robust with durable wood, medium size leaves and small black berries. The must is red at first but the estufagem procedure clears the color so that it acquires a green-white shine. Besides being used for blends, selected Tinta grapes from Campanário are also used for the Atlantis Rosé.
