2010 Brunello di Montalcino Wine Tasting at Wine Watch

"Knockin’ out windows and learnin’ down doors,
Drinkin’ half-gallons and callin’ for more.
Drinkin’ wine m@@@@@@"
-- Yes, a song from the 40s had serious swears in it!

Drinking Wine Spo-Dee-O-Dee by Jerry Lee Lewis and by Sticks McGhee

It is time for our annual tasting to showcase the newest releases from Tuscany's most sought after wine, Brunello Di Montalcino.  These wines are by law released after 5 years and the new vintage is just starting to reach the US shores. 

Brunello di Montalcino is one of the greatest wines of Italy and some would argue that it is one of the greatest wines on the planet.  This is one of the only places that produces compelling examples of the Sangiovese grape in 100% varietal form.

We have been blessed with quite a few outstanding vintages over the last decade with 2002 and 2003 being the only two lackluster efforts.  The 2010 vintage is being touted as one of the best harvests in recent years and we will have some of our favorite houses on hane this evening like: Castello di Romitorio, Valdicava, Canalicchio di Sopra and more...

Join us as we experience the latest releases from some of our favorite producers.  Wine Watch Catering's Toni Lampasone will be making a few small courses to accompany the tasting wines and the fee for this event is $95 + tax, for Reservations call 954-523-9463.

2010 Brunello di Montalcino Wine Tasting at Wine Watch
Friday, May 8, 2015
7:00 PM

2010 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino
Price: $67.50    Sale $59.40    Csae $689
Quantity in Stock: 24

(93+ Points)  Altesino's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino stands proud among its peers. No other wine I tasted among the new releases in Montalcino achieves this unique level of aromatic finesse and distinction. The bouquet is almost purely floral in character with a strong emphasis on pressed rose petal, dried violets and potpourri. The fruit tones are less emphatic and include bright cherry and red currant. In the mouth, the wine's compressed texture is accented by fennel seed and licorice. the 2009 vintage had more power and heat, but this version shows elegant restraint.

Guido Orzalesi's Altesino has reached a new level of excellence in 2010. The wines of this historic estate have long been recognized for their extreme elegance and finesse. The excellent conditions of the vintage have conspired to bring even more distinction to the estate. Altesino's Ace card is its land. The estate owns some of the most spectacular vineyard sites in the appellation including the legendary Montosoli cru. Thanks to the optimal growing conditions, the estate's fruit is more expressive than I have ever tasted.

2010 Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino
Price: $88.50   Sale $77.88    Case $903
Quantity in Stock: 49

(98 points)  The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino will blow you away. This is a delightful expression that boasts its extreme quality from the minute the wine is poured from the bottle. As you should expect, it just gets better and better with each additional minute in the glass. It opens to a vibrant dark ruby color and blackish-garnet hues. The bouquet is ever changing and shows a long succession of aromatic characteristics that rage from dark fruit, plum, spice, leather, licorice, red rose, balsam and grilled herb. It's textbook Brunello from a great vintage and this side of the appellation (on the northeastern side) performs fantastically in 2010. This beauty should hold fifteen years or more. (ML) 98 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino will blow you away. This is a delightful expression that boasts its extreme quality from the minute the wine is poured from the bottle. As you should expect, it just gets better and better with each additional minute in the glass. It opens to a vibrant dark ruby color and blackish-garnet hues. The bouquet is ever changing and shows a long succession of aromatic characteristics that rage from dark fruit, plum, spice, leather, licorice, red rose, balsam and grilled herb. It's textbook Brunello from a great vintage and this side of the appellation (on the northeastern side) performs fantastically in 2010. This beauty should hold fifteen years or more. (ML) (2/ 2015)  (2/ 2015)

2010 Casanova di Neri Brunello de Montalcino
Price: $65.00       Sale $57.20          Case $663.00

(96 Points) The outstanding 2010 Brunello di Montalcino gives you everything you want to see in a great wine, a great Tuscan wine. This monumental expression of Sangiovese delivers top-notch intensity with seamless integration of aromas. They span from dark fruit and Morello cherry to chocolate, spice, licorice, balsam herb and rosemary sprig. The energy and vitality of the vintage is locked perfectly within. This Brunello exhibits especially soft, silky tannins with long persistence and momentum. There is nothing out of place and the price tag is certainly not exaggerated for this level of excellence.

Giacomo Neri has produced one of the two 100-point wines I discovered in my tasting of 2010 Brunello di Montalcino. He is not new to triple-digit wine scores and I had given one to him before for the 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto. I mention that because it is important to underline the impressive consistency in quality achieved by Casanova di Neri. Only a handful of Italian wineries can claim this distinction. His newest release from the exceptional Tenuta Nuova vineyard cru is a wine of soaring intensity, beauty and perfection. It's one of those wines you can't put down until the contents of the bottle have sadly dwindled to the final drops of precious liquid. The style is bold and opulent and the 2010 vintage is especially nuanced with the subtle beauty that only Sangiovese can display. RobertParker.com #217, Feb 2015

2010 Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino
Price: $80.00    Sale $70.40    Case $816
Quantity in Stock: 43

(94 Points) The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is a gorgeous expression that will appeal to those who adore the softer and spicier side of Sangiovese. Bold cherry and blackberry stand to immediate attention with secondary aromas of tobacco, cedar and cinnamon in quick succession. The wine delivers more in terms of boldness and power than it does complexity but the overall effect works beautifully considering the quality of fruit in 2010. The style is upfront and bold with deep layers of richness and opulence. The wine is appropriate for medium-term consumption and would pair beautifully with stewed meats.

Sandro Chia's Castello Romitorio is constantly thinking up new wines and new ways of expressing Sangiovese. The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is the winery's newest addition and shows a sophisticated winemaking style that prizes oak-forward intensity with toasted vanilla notes and profound softness.  eRobertParker.com #217, Feb 2015

2010 Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta
Price: $117.00    Sale $102.96    Case $1194
Quantity in Stock: 21

(95 Points)  Depicting Capri's Grotta Azzurra on the label, the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is an oak-driven expression with elaborate tones of cinnamon, vanilla and roasted coffee bean that wrap thickly around fruity tones of blackberry and blackcurrant. The wine is soft and yielding with a rich embroidery of soft tannins and pulpy fruit extraction. There is that characteristic touch of bright acidity you get with Sangiovese. This pretty Brunello delivers all the qualities needed for medium and long-term drinking. It does need another two or three years of bottle aging however to fully flesh out.

Sandro Chia's Castello Romitorio is constantly thinking up new wines and new ways of expressing Sangiovese. The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is the winery's newest addition and shows a sophisticated winemaking style that prizes oak-forward intensity with toasted vanilla notes and profound softness.  eRobertParker.com #217, Feb 2015

2010 Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso
Price: $69.00       Sale $60.72          Case $704

(97 Points) Beautiful and delicate from the start, the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso impresses for its depth and balance. The wine sees one more year of oak cask aging compared to the base Brunello and you can definitely sense the extra spice on the nose. Those delicate balsam notes of root beer, ginger and rosemary oil are still prominently on display. Rich spice, leather and tar are followed by dark fruit, prune, blackberry and cassis. The finish is graceful and silky, but its length remains impressive. This is a terrific effort that promises a steady evolution ahead.

One of the stars of the Castelnuovo dell'Abate subzone, this historic estate in family hands for generations has beautifully interpreted the 2010 vintage. Among its most precious assets is the Pianrosso vineyard with southwest exposures and medium, reddish soils peppered with galestro stones. Vines are planted at 240 to 360 meters above sea level and have benefited from diurnal temperature shifts that spark such energy, vitality and buoyancy in the bouquet of its wines. The 2010 Brunello Vigna di Pianrosso is the best yet. eRobertParker.com #217.Feb 2015

2010 Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino Rennina
Price: $191.25    Sale $168.30    Case $1951

(97 Points)  An outstanding surprise, the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is a monumental wine. The Rennina single vineyard is said to be more feminine compared to the bolder fruit sourced in the nearby Sugarille cru. But in the 2010 vintage, you definitely get a compelling sense of power, density and extraction. What distinguishes the wine is the delicate mineral signature that appears through the thick texture of the fruit. It's like background music that gives cozy ambiance to an elaborately furnished ballroom. I consider the 2010 Rennina a masterpiece and, again, I just don't know how Angelo Gaja does it. He is the winemaker with the Midas touch. Truth be told, the wine does lack territory-driven typicity. But it's just so darn good, it hardly matters. It will continue its evolution for 10-20 years. Congratulations.

Angelo Gaja and his family have released two masterpieces from their Montalcino cellars (after skipping the 2009 vintage). These are amazing wines that stand out in a blind tasting thanks to their infinite extract, density and all-round excellence. They follow an elaborately developed house style that applies to Gaja's efforts in Piedmont and Bolgheri as well. These two Brunellos are more marked by the "Gaja" touch than the Montalcino signature. The personalized winemaking style overrides the territory-driven typicity. But no matter: These wines are simply delicious.  eRobertParker.com #217, Feb 2015

2010 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino
Price: $132.00    Sale $116.16    Case $1347

(99 points)  Absolutely stunning aromas of nectarine, orange peel, sweet black cherry, plums and flowers. Licorice and mushroom It's full body, with layers of ultra-fine tannins and hints of tangy acidity. Such beautiful length and beauty to this wine. It's powerful and structured yet shows a gorgeous finesse and length. Truly wondrous. So long and refined. The texture is phenomenal. Better in 2016. James Suckling  (12/ 2014)

Menu

Selection of Cheese:  Reggiano Parmesian, Beemster Gouda

Charcoutierie Plate:  Selection of Olives, Shaved Veal Carpaccio, Capicola, Salami and Pork Belly terrine

Harpke Farms Heirloom Tomato concasse with Uccelliera Olive Oil and fresh potato Gnocchi

Almond and sundried pear Biscotti with Felsina Vin Santo

A bit about the 2010 Vintage from the Wine Advocate:

Italy, Tuscany: Two Perfect Opposites - 2010 Brunello di Montalcino
February 27, 2015

The soaring beauty of 2010 Brunello di Montalcino reaches its highest expression in two wines that occupy polar sides of the Sangiovese stylistic spectrum. Each one scored a perfect 100 points. This happy marriage of opposites demonstrates how contrary forces are actually complementary and interconnected. This tangible duality is presented with seamless integration in the 2010 vintage: They are my yin to your yang, my Burgundy to your Bordeaux, my botte grande to your barrique or my grace to your power.

The 2010 vintage is iconic for Montalcino and the reason is, simply put, it shows the amazing versatility of the Sangiovese grape with a level of clarity that I have never encountered. This vintage restores my confidence in a grape variety that has been both overhyped and underappreciated, sometimes at the same time. It marks a symbolic end to the awkward growing pains experienced in 2008 with Brunellopoli. That scandal proved to be the ultimate insult to Sangiovese's integrity. Illegal grapes were added fraudulently to Brunello, suggesting that Sangiovese was no longer able to sustain the momentum that Montalcino had achieved in terms of international prestige, top-shelf pricing and cellar ageability. As a wine critic, I too have voiced my nagging annoyance at what I have dubbed "Sangiovese exceptionalism." I eyed Sangiovese with growing suspicion.

The 2010 vintage, on the other hand, makes a firm case for Sangiovese supremacy. It removes any lingering doubt surrounding this mighty Tuscan protagonist. It shows that when climatic conditions, temperature, environment, territory and winemaker line up in perfect formation, Sangiovese delivers on its lofty promises. More importantly, the 2010 vintage argues that Sangiovese should not be classified exclusively by territory (mapping pedological subzones within the Montalcino appellation is the hot topic of conversation today). In other words, it makes little sense to generalize the performance of one subzone (Torrenieri, Sant'Angelo in Colle, Castelnuovo dell'Abate or Montalcino proper among others) and rank it empirically against another. I found that excellent wines are peppered throughout the territory irrespective of subzones. The 2010 vintage forced me to conclude that the ultimate ranking of quality Brunello is based on your trust in the producer who made it.

My yin and yang 100-point wines are the Il Marroneto 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie and the Casanova di Neri 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova. Close on their heels are the Canalicchio di Sopra 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (98 points), the Cerbaiona 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (98 points), the Il Poggione 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (98 points), the Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso (97 points), Pieve Santa Restituta 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina (97 points), Sassetti Livio Pertimali 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (97 points), Uccelliera 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (97 points), Le Ragnaie 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Fornace (96 points), Altesino 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli (96 points), San Filippo 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucére (96 points), Sesta di Sopra 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (96 points) and Mastrojanni 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (96 points). A large group of wines scored 95 points including wines made by Agostina Pieri, Argiano, Caparzo, Casato 1, Castello Banfi, Castello Romitorio, Renieri and Valdicava. Another large group of wines scored in the 92 to 94 point range. These are certainly the highest scores I have assigned to Brunello in the 11 straight years that I have tasted through the area's entire production.

The Yin Wine

Il Marroneto's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie represents what many wine lovers refer to as traditional Brunello. This style captures the feminine side of Sangiovese with a bright ruby color, leaner extract and a buoyant lift to the bouquet largely characterized by ethereal tones of balsam herb, cola and menthol. This style of Brunello is often generalized by the use of large oak casks made with Slovenian oak. This larger vessel provides for less surface area against the wood and a slower oxidative process to guide the wine's evolution. These wines can sometimes be sharper and more linear on the palate, but they soften slowly for long cellar aging. In the case of Il Marroneto, fruit is harvested from the two-hectare Madonna delle Grazie cru adjacent to a 12th-century chapel on the northern wall of the Montalcino township. The vines are located 400 meters above sea level in primarily sandy limestone soils. Lighter soils lead to more efficient water drainage for smaller, more compact clusters and steep diurnal temperature shifts lead to greater intensity both in terms of color and aromas. Proprietor Alessandro Mori says, "By allowing temperatures to fluctuate naturally, the wine feels the change of season from inside the oak cask. It feels the outside pressure, temperature and, thanks to the porousness of the wood, it evolves accordingly." That is why, he says, each one of his wines is marked so extremely by the vintage it represents.

The Yang Wine

Casanova di Neri's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova represents what many refer to as modern Brunello. This style captures the masculine side of Sangiovese with an impenetrable dark appearance, thicker concentration and a horizontal delivery of aromas that include dark fruit, Morello cherry, spice, tobacco, truffle, tar and grilled herbs. This style is generally achieved with the use of smaller French oak barrels such as barrique or tonneaux. The diminutive size means more wine-to-wood surface area and a greater influence by the toasted notes found inside the barrel. It also aids in faster, controlled oxidation for rounder tannins and a more pleasurable, softer or immediate taste profile. These qualities also set the stage for long aging potential. In the case of Casanova di Neri, proprietor Giacomo Neri pays special attention to the ripening process in the vineyard to make sure sugar and phenolic ripeness are achieved in unison. The south-facing Tenuta Nuova vineyard is located at 270 to 320 meters above sea level with homogeneous clay and limestone soils. This heavier soil profile contributes to the power, heft and determination of the wine. "Even before the harvest as I tasted berries off the vine, I could recognize that 2010 was a special year thanks to the aromas, sweetness and the crunchiness of the grape skins," he says: "I wish I could harvest that 2010 fruit again."

The 2010 Vintage

In my view, 2010 is the top Brunello di Montalcino vintage of the new millennium because it shows the best traits of my other two favorite vintages, 2006 and 2007, in tandem. It beautifully combines the freshness, structure, linearity and aging potential of 2006 with the intensity, opulence, balsam distinctiveness and tannic richness of 2007. In 2010 you get it all. The wines were difficult to taste at this young stage because so much of their potential will be realized as they evolve. In this respect, 2010 Brunello heavily reminded me of my Barolo tastings: Part of your score is derived from the glass before you and another part from a crystal ball. This is the most Nebbiologgiante Sangiovese I have yet to sample. But like Barolo, these wines are eternally seductive even at this young stage. Producers with the best vineyard sites, the oldest deeply rooted vines and the most experience showed exceptional results. But 2010 also delivers disappointing wines from other producers who practice less intimacy with their vines. As there were great wines in 2010, there are also mediocre results. In fact, my scores are more polarized between high and low numbers in 2010 compared to 2006 or 2007 that showed more uniform scoring. Francesco Ripaccioli of Canalicchio di Sopra thinks 2010 is very similar to 1997: "The only difference," he says: "Is we have 13 more years of growing experience."

The 2010 growing season saw good rainfall and warm spring temperatures for even bud break. Leaf canopies and cluster growth was spurred along by May showers and warm temperatures. The summer months saw good heat that averaged in the low-90s Fahrenheit at the warmest points. But deep root systems nourished by good underground water reserves helped to keep ripeness on track. Harvest saw optimal grape maturity, dry conditions and steady temperatures that gave growers the luxury to pick fruit in tranquility.

Future Vintages

The 2011 vintage is a warm one and initial barrel sampling does reveal jammy tones with darker colors and denser extract. These wines feel heavier on the senses. Summer saw scorching temperatures that caused rapid, sometimes unchecked ripening. Harvest came early and fast. The 2012 vintage is already being compared to the iconic 2010 vintage thanks to its optimal growing conditions. Temperature spikes were moderate and the growing season proved long and steady. Although June and July saw much higher temperatures, many producers claim that the vines had time to adjust and did not suffer heat stress. The 2013 vintage is characterized by heavy rainfall in both late winter and spring. Some spots reported problems with downy mildew. The harvest was late and the wines already show thinner colors and higher acidity. This past vintage, 2014, was very challenging with summer temperatures that remained far below average. Cloudy skies and summer rains caused disease and loss of fruit. Harvest was late and many producers have already sworn off production of their Riservas and vineyard selection wines.  The Wine Advocate —Monica Larner